When your all done, double check that the oil pump lever is lined up
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2000 Seadoo LRV won’t stay running
- Thread starter JimTex
- Start date
Grim
Well-Known Member
My advise is to leave the high and low at factory and adjust your idle screw to around 3000 RPMS out of the water Just don't run it more than 30 to 40 secs at a time, allow for cool down if you are slow at it. Once you have it at 3000 RPMs then you can put it in the water and tweak it to the 1500 RPMs, which is ideal for your engine.
99% of carbs run great at factory settings, only people who mess with those two adjustments are typically racers.
99% of carbs run great at factory settings, only people who mess with those two adjustments are typically racers.
I just these 2 Test
Pump Diaphragm Leak Test:
Diaphragm must stand pressure for 10 seconds. If pressure drops, replace diaphragm.
This seems to be GOOD.
Fuel Pump Valve:
Check fuel pump valve operations as follows;
Connect a clean plastic tubing to the inlet nipple of the fuel pump body no. 4 and alternately apply pressure and vacuum with the mouth. The inlet valve should release with pressure and hold under vacuum.
I can apply pressure looks GOOD, BUT the vacuum does not hold.
Pump Diaphragm Leak Test:
Diaphragm must stand pressure for 10 seconds. If pressure drops, replace diaphragm.
This seems to be GOOD.
Fuel Pump Valve:
Check fuel pump valve operations as follows;
Connect a clean plastic tubing to the inlet nipple of the fuel pump body no. 4 and alternately apply pressure and vacuum with the mouth. The inlet valve should release with pressure and hold under vacuum.
I can apply pressure looks GOOD, BUT the vacuum does not hold.
To save time and aggravation I would rebuild the carbs with back to OEM kits from OSD marine.
Hi Jim, yes the fuel pump check valves could be causing your issues, who knows what’s going on in there, could be a hole in the grommet, or the disc was installed upside down or the mating surface is corroded. I’m sure you can could order just the discs and grommets but like I said before if your spark and compression is good I would just order the complete rebuild kit including needle and seat, follow Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread.
Also, not saying it’s your issue but I have a machine that came with clear fuel line, I couldn’t get it to stop sucking air until I changed the clear fuel lines to black automotive fuel line, I used continental line.
Ah heck, I can’t even trust the new clear fuel lines the guy installed.
I never done a carb kit on a Jetski only done lawn mowers and cars.
It sounds easier to buy carbs either new or already rebuilt.
I will look at instructions that were mentioned before to see if I can do it or not.
Thanks again
I never done a carb kit on a Jetski only done lawn mowers and cars.
It sounds easier to buy carbs either new or already rebuilt.
I will look at instructions that were mentioned before to see if I can do it or not.
Thanks again
My opinion, don’t buy new carbs, I rebuilt my first set about 3 years ago just from reading @mikidymac carb rebuild thread. The only thing that’s not in the thread that could have helped me, was the dental floss trIck to pull the grommets through for those Mylar discs. There’s always somebody to help if you get stuck but it’s not complicated with that thread to follow along with
Just to be sure they are genuine I would buy from OSD Marine osdparts.com
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OSD Back To OEM Sea Doo Dual Carb Rebuild Kit (ALL 947) [OSD1273] - $144.99
That looks like it should be ok except the needle and seats are extra. Here is the link for OSD marine that included the needle and seats
That looks like it should be ok except the needle and seats are extra. Here is the link for OSD marine that included the needle and seats
