slowly losing top end Part 1+2

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That's a good point Dennis, as most of the other wire connectors are pretty much water proof. Remember to spray the plug caps real good with the silicone spray too.
Karl
 
Thanks!!!

I was trying to figure out how the walmart one was going to work for me...

Never even thought about West Marine...DUH!:ack:
 
Well, the wires are new. I had to buy a new coil when i got this, and it came with new wires attached.

The silicone spray and dielectric grease, though, sounds like what I need. And a bilge pump...

Was going to take the ski out again today, but woke up to 35 degree air temps. Combine that with a wet wetsuit and 45 mph winds blowing past me and a fast ski...didn't sound too appetizing this morning...

My wife and I are getting the beach house for 10 days at Christmas. My parents live on the beach, but are going out of town for the holidays, we get the house and get to babysit their dogs.

Anyone want to come down and ski with us:cheers:

Since we have 10 days at the beach with the ski, I will need to get this bilge issue worked on early in that time frame so it will run good the rest of the time we are there.
 
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uh, the water here is in the 70's and air temp is like 80's... I like the beer cold and the water warm... I'll pass...lol let us know if you still have the problem before you off to the xmas getaway.
( if my pool temp drops below 82..we cover it...too cold to swim..lol)
Karl
 
We have DSL at the beachhouse...my parents live there full time, so it isn't really a "beachhouse" but their "home". It is just like anyone else's home, except for being up on 12' stilts:ack:

Anyway, I will still have access and will let you all know what I end up with on the bilge system and how it runs (if the water doesn't get too cold).

I found a place closer to home than West Marine, 10-15 minutes drive rather than an hour and a half to West. So I will probably trailer the ski over there Saturday and look at parts. I may just plug and bypass the entire existing bilge system and run a pump out a new hole that is a bit bigger, 3/8 or 7/16".

I will post pics when I get it up and running, and let you know how it "goes"
 
Idea?

Scooper, being the hull of the ski isn't that big, you might consider a small volume automatic bilge pump with it's own power supply. If you consider the second battery, you could make it a dedicated battery to the bilge pump, avoiding switches. It shouldn't have any problem keeping up with your use and when you bring the ski home, put it on a trickle charge till your next outing.
I don't know if I'd want to trust just one battery if your using another electrical device on it. If your bilge pump drained your battery, you'd be stuck....
Just a thought. All the advice I've read thus far is good. Just another view point...:cheers:
 
You could go 1 step further with the extra battery...add an isolator off the mag on the boat and charge both of them from the same source. They are cheap at auto parts stores, and include directions on hook up. That would be a trick idea and the Mag should handle it.
Karl
 
problem finding pumps

I was hoping to find something along the lines of a cheap in-line fuel pump that could handle saltwater. Something that I could splice the two existing bilge-boot lines to, and then blow the water out the hull somewhere from a larger exiting hole, maybe 1/2".

I cannot find anything but a submersible pump that needs to be placed into the water to work.

Is there any kind of pump that has a line in and line out, rather than just sitting in the water?

I was thinking of having the water exit near my calf or ankle so I can flip the switch, wait until I stop feeling the hot water on my leg, and then turn it off before I burn up the pump. I won't ever have to take my eyes off the water since I can do it all by feel...
 
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Ended up with a RULE 360 GPH and 3/4" exhaust out a Thru-hull fitting. Not sure if I will install this or not. I have not tried it out for fitment, and will do that tomorrow. If I can get it low enough to get wet, I will use it and wire it through my VTS switch. It should empty the hull in just a few seconds if I use it every 20-30 minutes and not let it fill up too much.

If it doesn't fit well because of its size and shape, I will keep looking for something that will fit down in the grooves where the bilge "boots" sit.

This one is about 2-1/2" diameter and would need to be secured to the floor somehow...but would catch any water 1/2" deep or deeper.

I just got home with it and the ski, and haven't had a chance to really get a good look at it all...
 
If you use a 2 part (fast dry)epoxy like I discribed in my Hawkeye depth gauge thread, it will work really good and quick to secure the bilge to the hull. Scuff the fiberglass smooth with 80 grit sand paper and apply.
P.S always remember the KISS theory..Keep It Simple Stupid.....meaning don't over think it!
 
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Duh!!!

KISS is NOT my typical way of doing things...

I was thinking of fiberglassing it in, never even thought of epoxy...DUH:ack:
 
I own a Custom Vehicle Company...I live by the KISS theory. I have been building custom vehicles for ever. Never OVER think a project, it will drive ya nuts!
The cat walk in my avator took me like 2 hrs to do...complete process. My neighbor copied it...took him 4 days...
Karl
 
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Today's project

Took the day off to get the ski squared away and ready for the Christmas break...

When I started to pull it from my parents' house, I heard wheel bearing noise :ack:

went straight to a hardware store and bought a grease gun and bearing grease. Driver bearing was "warm" when I got there. Shot them full of grease and drove the remaining 25 miles home.

Today, I took the hubs off and bearings on both sides are out of their races and just floating around in the grease, which has a nice burnt aroma (remember, free jet ski, free trailer, it has sat in neighbor's garage for 4-5 years flooded through 3 or 4 hurricanes, and they likely never did any maintenance, since 1996!).

I knew this job was coming, since the rims were rusted to a point where I was afraid to hit bumps that they would dissolve into piles of rust powder, and they don't hold air for long.

Anyway, Reader's Digest condensed version...

Today, I bought 2 new tires/rims, 10 new lugs and nuts, new bearings, and am about 2/3 done with the swap. Taking a lunch break...:)

This will reduce my worries for years to come...
 
Maybe a new thread?

Took the day off to get the ski squared away and ready for the Christmas break...

When I started to pull it from my parents' house, I heard wheel bearing noise :ack:

went straight to a hardware store and bought a grease gun and bearing grease. Driver bearing was "warm" when I got there. Shot them full of grease and drove the remaining 25 miles home.

Today, I took the hubs off and bearings on both sides are out of their races and just floating around in the grease, which has a nice burnt aroma (remember, free jet ski, free trailer, it has sat in neighbor's garage for 4-5 years flooded through 3 or 4 hurricanes, and they likely never did any maintenance, since 1996!).

I knew this job was coming, since the rims were rusted to a point where I was afraid to hit bumps that they would dissolve into piles of rust powder, and they don't hold air for long.

Anyway, Reader's Digest condensed version...

Today, I bought 2 new tires/rims, 10 new lugs and nuts, new bearings, and am about 2/3 done with the swap. Taking a lunch break...:)

This will reduce my worries for years to come...

Scooper77515, If you need to get help with the trailer brgs, I would start another thread so as not to hijack your own thread. This way all info related will stay together. As always we are here to help.:)
Scubadoo
 
That'll do it!!!

bilge.jpg


Only lets it get about 1" deep in the bottom, compared to the 6-8" deep I got last time...

I have the VTS switch wired in so it will bilge out if I hit up or down.

The VTS was what broke and made the previous owner give up on it. I refuse to spend $300+ to fix it, and just adjust it manually to wherever I want it, and ride it all day at that setting. So, waterproof switch...easily accessible...DONE!

Also, new wheels, rims, bearings, new "Red Eye" bearing lubers, new lugs and nuts, good thick coat of high gloss rust oleum on the hub. Looks like a new trailer.
 
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Nice JOB!!!

One word AWSOME!! :hurray:Glad you got it to work, and just in time for vacation fun! Let us know how it works in the water.::):):cheers:
 
I don't think it will be a problem. It ran like that for maybe 8-10 seconds and sucked the hull down to the 3/4"-1" that the bottom of the pump pulls from.

It sucked the water out faster than the garden hose could fill it...

If I hit the button maybe once every 20-30 minutes, it will only have to run for 5-10 seconds to blow all the water out.

Feels good getting a bunch of these little things taken care of in one day.:)
 
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