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Shaft and impeller spin freely
- Thread starter Fallsguy
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Ok...sorry if I'm making u nuts but here's where I'm at. I can't get good access to the pto. I've got three screws holding my coil box on. I got my screw driver and lost three pounds of sweat tring to get the screws out. Also I don't see any wing nuts as u described previously.
Guest_User
New Member
you won`t be able to remove those 3 philips screws from the top, they have nuts underneath the cover. so follow the shape of the stainless cover where it meets the BLACK rear engine bracket, this bracket is what holds the engine to the rear mounts. there is one wing nut on each side of the cover...
meaning there are 2 studs welded to the engine bracket and the wing nuts hold this stainless PTO cover/coil box to the engine bracket... if you don`t find wingnuts and you see 2 regular nuts, then someone switched them out...
see those 2 studs on the engine bracket? that`s where you`ll find the wing nuts or nut that hold the PTO cover in place...
disconnect the connector at the top of the coil tower box, lift off that large black rubber protective boot and you`ll see the grey connector under it, unplug the spark plug wires from the spark plugs, leave loose, and now try and manipulate the coil/box away enough to get to the drive shaft...
otherwise you have more to disconnect, cooling hoses, battery/starter cables...
see this work gets intense when you start to dig in and find any problems on your own...
just catch your breath, have a beer or coffee and read the service manual... plus I have plenty of pictures in my build thread, have a look, you can Doo it!...lol...
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Guest_User
New Member
:facepalm::lols::cheers:
Ok so I got the pto cover off. I took a pic. Ill upload it in a second. I can see the splines like its not all the way in the fly wheel??? Also I'm not sure where to find the c clamp. Ill upload a pic and perhaps u can be so kind as to send me the next step in dumb mans english
Guest_User
New Member
holy smokes!!! where is the PTO boot and the 2 oetiker clamps...
look at the pics I sent you earlier to see what is supposed to be there...
unfortunately, your done for the day until you can get those parts...
well since you don`t have any clamps to unlock, keep the jet pump on, see that silver looking top hat thing, that is called the floating ring... again look at the picks I sent earlier.
spray some lubracant on the drive shaft where the floating ride rides over the drive shaft, you will need to push that floating ring rearwards to see the C CLIP, do that, then remove the C clip hiding under the floating ring. once you have that C clip off, push the floating ring towards the PTO, then remove jet pump, remove drive shaft from the back...
those splines are dry, and that engine looks to far forward from that pic... hence your issue...
Ok so here's my deal... When I compress the floating ring the whole shaft slides back I can't get it to expose the c ring because the shaft moves. Could the pro book missing cause the shaft to have this much play? How could the whole engine slip forward??? I checked the other engine.... It did have the wing nuts so it was easy to expose. It has the pto boot. I found the broken sides pto boot all destroyed. It was held on by a friggen zip tie not a proper clamp. Now my problem remains the drive shaft is able to slip out of the pto and my question is... Is this caused by the missing pto boot.
Either way man thanks for your help. It has been a pleasure to be working on my boat. Better it be with me and I'm at least on it doing something rather than sitting in the pool worried that the dealer won't get to it so thank you thank you thank you!!!
Either way man thanks for your help. It has been a pleasure to be working on my boat. Better it be with me and I'm at least on it doing something rather than sitting in the pool worried that the dealer won't get to it so thank you thank you thank you!!!
Guest_User
New Member
ok, so your saying that even with the jet pump still installed your able to bottom out the floating ring against the carbon seal bellows???
That accordian looking thing is the carbon seal bellows and that dark gray part between the floating ring and bellows is the "carbon seal".
you either need another set of hands/feet to hold the driveshaft forward while you pull the floating ring rearward, or push the floating ring until it can not go anymore, you can compress that bellows even if the rubber is hard... I will tell you this is not an easy job to compress that, But I`m able to use one hand/arm to compress and hold while loading the C clip in with the other...
so it can be done...
you could tap the floating ring with a suitable block of wood and a hammer, just don`t beat the crap out of it and bend it...
from the looks of things you might be getting a whole new set up if the face of the carbon seal, and floating ring are scored...
man that was so wrong for someone to fix the boat like that with a zip... those clamps are not expensive., but you do need the right tools to remove and install... please read the build thread to see what i`m talking about...
I can't bottom it out. My problem is that when I try to compress the floating ring to expose the c ring that needs to be removed the entire shaft moves. On the other side I can do it easy. This seems to be my problem. The shaft moves a lot like three inches. I swear with enough strength I could move it enough to get it out of the pto entirely. Why is the shaft moving so much??? This seems to be my whole problem.
ocod
Well-Known Member
Spray some PB on and try to free SS ring back enough to get C clip out with flat head(careful not to lose it)
Pale I give you mad props for detailed write that should be a Sticky!
:thumbsup:
OP keep at it.
It looks the the alignment was not done right.
There is to much play that I bet the rubber end pieces are not there.
Should look like this
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Ok I'm getting a friend to hold the shaft for me. Agreed pale has been like a father to me today. Ill get that shaft out tonight and send some pics and order parts tomorrow. The thing I haven't mentioned is why this is so important to me. I'm a grown ass man of 38 years. I own and operate two business a heating and cooling company and an insulation business. I've been on my own since I was 17. When I bought this boat I called my parents and expected them to be happy for me as boating has been a passion of mine since a young boy. Instead I got a lecture about break downs and expenses etc. well don't you know next weekend I have plans with my folks to take them out for a ride. About the last thing I want is to tell them it's in the shop. Hence the urgency to get this thing fixed. While my folks are often right the last thing I want to do is help them prove it.
My opinion is my boat is a labour of love. I feel like I'm almost there and raise my glass to you all especially pale rider who as u can see helped me tremendously. Privately I offered him something for his trouble and graciously declined. Hell of a guy!!!!
Thanks again!!
My opinion is my boat is a labour of love. I feel like I'm almost there and raise my glass to you all especially pale rider who as u can see helped me tremendously. Privately I offered him something for his trouble and graciously declined. Hell of a guy!!!!
Thanks again!!
ocod
Well-Known Member
^ Your doing the right thing and its showing how much you have accomplished on your own.
:thumbsup:
If you get parts fast enough you'll be running by this week.
One thing to do is check your compression.
Make sure we have a healthy motor in the end of all this work.
You can do that now. Should be at 150.
:thumbsup:
If you get parts fast enough you'll be running by this week.
One thing to do is check your compression.
Make sure we have a healthy motor in the end of all this work.
You can do that now. Should be at 150.
ocod
Well-Known Member
bigJake
Well-Known Member
If it isn't finished by next weekend, tell your parents the boat was stolen. Then when its done tell them the cops recovered it and reschedule the outing.
Guest_User
New Member
I can almost mimic. same for work at an early age, and family of boaters. And I also had similar opinions when I brought home a fixer-upper...lol... I`ve learned to work "unsupervised" which in most cases has me doing good finish work or repairing someones poor repair. and in most cases working alone... but I have a few years on you...lol... I give you kudos for running a business in todays environment, politically and economically...
I would have loved to open the door on a shop and continue with repair to these style of boats, and of course the cars and lifted rigs...
true boaters don`t frown when something breaks as we know the bill will be high. But for those of us that cherish the waters we ride, it is an adrenalin rush second to none.
anyway, it is hard to find a dedicated person or shop that does this type of work, sure we need the dealerships for certain things, but now that the Candoo pro programmer/scan tool is out for the seadoo`s and yamaha`s we can now make or own DESS keys amd make changes in the system just like the dealers. and if you have a few people who wouldn`t mind helping you pay for the tool that`s great...
My advice to you now that you`ve got your feet wet and a new thirst to working on your boat, take your time and do not rush, maybe change the date to take your folks out on the boat, unless you do pull it off with great results...
anyway, good luck and we hope to hear that your underway and enjoying the boat!
Inspite of all I went thru with ours, I really like this style of power choice of boat...
and thanks to you and ocod for the kind words!:cheers:
Guest_User
New Member
that would really surprise us all...
but based on the posts and info the OP had the jet pump off and the shaft would have fallen out, me thinks...lol...
Thanks jake. Here's the thing my moms a cop... Lol
If its bit fixed by next week I'm gonna add pale to my will and kill myself lol
Ok here's the pics
Attachments
Looks like the splines on the pto side are screwed. There was no pto boot. Does the pto boot normally get grease from the fly wheel? Could this have been part of the problem since it was dry? Also the CV slipped off when I pulled the shaft out does that pose a problem? I read something about measuring it which unfortunately I didn't.
I'm assuming if I can get the pto boot and shaft this week ill be all good. Usually my dealer gets parts over night. There is a big warehouse here that is filled with old oem seadoo parts.
I'm assuming if I can get the pto boot and shaft this week ill be all good. Usually my dealer gets parts over night. There is a big warehouse here that is filled with old oem seadoo parts.
Guest_User
New Member
hahaha don`t do that! hahahaha
anyway, looks like the PTO end of the drive shaft took the beating, those splines should mimic the opposite end... have a look at the pics earlier again to see what the shape should be.
look into the PTO spline/hole and see how bad it is, if it is just sloppy at the very end, you can remedy that by correctly setting the depth of the engine.
in the shop service manual is the dimensions for free length and compressed length of the carbon seal BELLOWS. I`m pretty sure it is 5/16-8mm.between the free and compressed differences.
now you parts list grew a bit bc I would purchase an alignment tool from SBT and reset the alignment yourself... once you learn that, you`ll always be able to reset your engines on your own and this is "THE" most important part of correct driveline geometry and the health of your carbon seal/bellows/drive shaft and jet pump...
so far it looks like:
bumpers for drive shaft
carbon seal
Bellows (also check the clamps)
floating ring
2 O rings for inside the floating ring...
C clip
PTO boot and small and large OEM oetiker clamps
seadoo synthetic grease for the PTO zerk (procedure is in the shop manual)<<< important
Neoprene jet pump seal... I don`t know if your boat has them now if it was worked on before, it may be smashed into the transom/shoe and it doesn`t hurt to install these neoprene seals (large foam O gasket) to help prevent cavitation.
you could possibly reuse the carbon seal/bellows/floating ring to save a few bux, just depends on your goal for the boat...
clean the driveshaft up really good, and the splined area. you might get away with reusing it. I really can`t see the depth from the pics...
good luck...:cheers:
I can tell you that I have made a fixture for setting the depth (forward/rearward placement of engine)
keep in mind that I have replaced my thru hull fittings with SBT aluminum anodized pieces. My dimension between the end of the PTO and to the thru hull fitting is 4 15/16"
This gave me the correct compressed length for the bellows...
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