Hummmm well I'm surprised by the fact everyone thinks a dealer is too busy to look at a boat.... Wait isn't that their job? I'm not asking them to volunteer I was planning on paying them. Dealer said they would have me done by next weekend.
With that in mind so I don't get a rep as a pussy I figure I can take the pump off and see what's up. I think if I don't the lack of respect may earn zero responses to my next problem. Before I do that I have a question
When I get under the boat and spin the impeller I hear a rattle that sounds like its almost directly above the impeller no where near the pump. Do I more likely have an issues at the pto?
I want to learn about my boat and enjoy working with my hands but one other thing to consider is this and I'm not meaning to sound like a jerk but if I take time away from my business I lose because I earn more money then the mechanic. But as u say knowledge is power and pride is earned! I'm going to try. Thanks for the encouragement... And warnings!
with that said^^^
download a shop manual.
http://www.sea-doo.net/SHOPMANUALS/JETBOATS/1998-1999/JBOAT_A/1998/LMR98V1A.PDF
and supplement:
http://www.sea-doo.net/SHOPMANUALS/JETBOATS/1998-1999/JBOAT_A/1998/S_LMR98A.PDF
the torque specs alone will help prevent you from gorilla tightening any fasteners that aren`t meant to be gorilla tight.
BTW which pump is giving you the noise? Port or Starboard? if it is the port engine, then remove the 2 small bolts that hold the silver tube connecting the reverse buckets together (so they act in unison) on the right side of the tube. you will mostly likely move the shift lever for access to those small bolts/nuts, I think they are 7mm wrench...
them remove the steering rod that connects the 2 steering nozzles together completely. I believe these are 11mm nuts.
Now if it is the
Port pump, just remove the 4 17mm nuts washers and lock washers, remove zip tie from the speedometer sensor wire where it attaches to the pump housing, move that out of the way and pull the pump directly towards you and off the studs and drive shaft.
if it is the
Starboard pump, you`ll need to remove those same reverse gate silver Tube bolts as described above, remove the nut that attaches the steering cable adapter to the steering nozzle, be careful, there is a plastic bushing and washers that are oriented one way when disassembling, remove the 10mm nut on the 6mm bolt that holds the shift cable to the actuator on the reverse bucket, then slide out that 6mm bolt and washers, remove steering rod that connects the 2 nozzles as mentioned before, and remove the 4 17mm nuts washers, lock washers from that pump and after making sure the steering cable and shift cable are able to slide out freely, pull the pump towards you as an assembly and place on the ground or bench...
you will see a neoprene/rubber washer about the size of a nickel either it will be manilla or black and this is the seal for the cooling water passage between the pump housing and transom shoe...
after you pulled the defective side off, look into the impeller where the drive shaft is inserted, examine the splines in the impeller and the drive shaft, if they look good, continue on to removing the drive shaft from the pto flywheel, that is another procedure...
BTW, no one is thinking or calling you a puss. I simply admired your honesty wether you can do the work or not.
From the horror stories on these forums, MOST dealers will not work on older 2 stroke boats for many reasons, 1 they are time consuming and can make a fast buck on the newer boats, 2 some techs just aren`t into these 2 strokers and hate them with a passion, etc etc, and it is the busiest time of year, I`ve had experience with my own craft being held up for an entire season waiting on warranty work, so there are many opinions, reasons, and facts, why we say the things we do...
Good Luck! hope you learn something and the dealer takes care of you without to much out of pocket pain...:cheers:
