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Seized trim screws

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LesPaul

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Have a relatively new to me 2002 Challenger 1800. I have been doing some research on adjusting the trim plate to reduce (eliminate) the porpoising. Of course the screws are seized and will not budge. Now the screw heads are slightly stripped. So I guess I will have to drill them out and replace them, with anti-seized this time. Why Seadoo didn't use some type of hex screw or high torque screw/bolt is beyond me. Quickly getting tired of the boat. Any adivise from the pro's?
 
There was a recent thread re this and on my boat they were also siezed. I cut them off as close to the trim plate as possible and as I was removing the housing this left enough bolt pretruding to get vice grips on and with a little heat on the housing they came out no trouble at all. I didn't mind applying heat (not a lot of heat) from a blow torch as I was beadblasting and re powder coating. Unless you are very percice with drilling, I wouldn't attempt it. All boats have there issues and the older they get an odd seized bolt or worn part is only to be expected.
 
They were originally installed with thread locker. SO... it takes heat regardless, to break down the thread locker. Use a focused torch to get the bolt hot. Then, use an hand impact with a #3 Philips bit to knock it loose, and not rip the head up. AND... don't forget to loosen the lock nut behind the ride plate.
 
Thank you DJs and Dr. Honda for your help. I really appreciate it. ;-)
Plan A was to get the impact with #3 phillips, with some heat. Didn't work. Not really enough room under the boat to get a solid hit on the impact wrench.

Plan B was to cut the bolts off and replace them with something other than a phillips. Got the hacksaw and went to work. Worked great. Although the thread locker prevented any easy work getting them out.(even with heat). They fought me all the way out. I replaced them with M8 hex bolts and lock washers. Seems to work goo, so far. I did forget to put the two (each side) big flat washers back on. Didn't realize it until I was picking up the tools. Laying under the boat in 110* heat was no fun. I sure hope the adjustment on the trim tab was worth all the work. I dropped it down 5/8 "

Next thing is to figure out a way to bypass the dead man switch. I don't really think I need it in a boat. Jet ski yes, boat no.
 
Just depends on how you run it. I disconnected the one in my Islandia because.... well... with a 4000 Lb, 22' boat... if the driver gets thrown out... there's bigger problems. On an 18' boat... well... you can still be running it hard... but it's totally up to you. I wouldn't have any issues removing it, if it's giving you problems. Since it's just a ground on the merc engines... just cut the wires, and leave them open. (tape the ends)
 
Thank you, Dr.

I don't run it hard. I'm 50 yrs old and those days are gone. LOL. We got this boat to take the grandkids out, so I would NEVER risk anything going wrong with them onboard. Good example, I have a 1000hp street rod that never gets pass 40 mph.

It's not really giving me any problems, other than just being worn out and keep keeps falling off. Just cut the wires and leave them taped? I have never messes around with the bypass. My jetskis have some type of magnetic coded lanyard. (I guess)
 
On my islandia the original owners took it off the dash and taped it and zip tied it out of the way behind the radio when they first bought it. I am adding a voltage gauge in hole that was left in dash.
 
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After spending a few hours removing the original seized trim tab screws and replacing them. No more pourposing. I adjusted the trim plate down 5/8 of an inch and it worked wonders. Def worth the effort.
 
Yes, I did. I also got rid of the Phillips head screw and went a hex head with a heavy dose of anti-seize. You can probably get the 5/8 with the OEM screws, but since I was replacing them anyway I went a little bit longer.
 
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