RX Fuel line replacement
- Thread starter ashnic
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Here's a link to BRP parts catalog, search for your ski, there's a pictorial of your carbs. you can see the linkage details. I can't find detailed instructions on exactly how to remove the linkage. You should be able to lift the carbs. so you can see the connection easier. This is really not that hard, if you look closely you can see how the cable is attached.
Mark or count the threads on the adjustment nuts so they go back in the same place when you reattach the cables.
http://epc.brp.com/SiteMods/BRP_Public/BRP_Public_Login.aspx?ReturnUrl=/Index.aspx
Lou
Mark or count the threads on the adjustment nuts so they go back in the same place when you reattach the cables.
http://epc.brp.com/SiteMods/BRP_Public/BRP_Public_Login.aspx?ReturnUrl=/Index.aspx
Lou
Lets call it a night. Do a google search for Mukini Carburetor 41N (I think that's your model). See if you can find more detailed instructions. Everything I can find just says remove the choke and throttle cables.
I don't want to sound condescending, but if we can't get past this step, maybe you should just put the carbs. back on and get a professional. It gets harder from here.
Lou
I don't want to sound condescending, but if we can't get past this step, maybe you should just put the carbs. back on and get a professional. It gets harder from here.
Lou
Im a newbie and just did mine 3 days ago.
The linkage you are talking about going under the ski is connected to your oil pump.
It does not come undone from under the ski. It is connected to the side of your carb and unscrews from there(the tension is realeased from there). It is a long (1") screw that has a nut on the bottom side of it.
You loosen the nut and unscrew the threaded part.
So ...
Follow the linkage wire from under the ski you arre talking about. Follow it to where it connects to the side of the carb.
It will attach to the carb bracket. Loosen the nut and unscrew it from the bracket.
Do what Lou says and count the threads to make sure it goes back the same way.
All these connections are spring loaded. You have to manually turn the choke/throttle/oil linkages to release the tension and then take the cable loose.
Good luck.
The linkage you are talking about going under the ski is connected to your oil pump.
It does not come undone from under the ski. It is connected to the side of your carb and unscrews from there(the tension is realeased from there). It is a long (1") screw that has a nut on the bottom side of it.
You loosen the nut and unscrew the threaded part.
So ...
Follow the linkage wire from under the ski you arre talking about. Follow it to where it connects to the side of the carb.
It will attach to the carb bracket. Loosen the nut and unscrew it from the bracket.
Do what Lou says and count the threads to make sure it goes back the same way.
All these connections are spring loaded. You have to manually turn the choke/throttle/oil linkages to release the tension and then take the cable loose.
Good luck.
Also, i removed the cables before I removed the carb. Put the carb back on, remove the linkages, then removed the carb.
I think you are going to have trouble putting the linkages back on properly. As i said before you have to manually turn the choke lever to release the tension, then remove the cable. You can do it.
Put the carb back on then remove the cables/linkages. This way our rights and lefts and ups and downs are the same when communicating.
When you remove the linkages, then take the carb off.
I think you are going to have trouble putting the linkages back on properly. As i said before you have to manually turn the choke lever to release the tension, then remove the cable. You can do it.
Put the carb back on then remove the cables/linkages. This way our rights and lefts and ups and downs are the same when communicating.
When you remove the linkages, then take the carb off.
http://http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/jetting.htmSchematics of the carbs are found at the top of this page.
I don't know if this is a competitor. I just happen to find the schematics here. I'd buy my parts from the host of this forum.
This forum has helped me tremendously.
I don't know if this is a competitor. I just happen to find the schematics here. I'd buy my parts from the host of this forum.
This forum has helped me tremendously.
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Boyd,
Thanks for the help, that's the diagram I was looking for.
Ashnic, take a look at this link http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/pdf/Mikuni_sbn_rebuild-kit.pdf
Can you see where the cables are connected, it doesn't show the cables but the throttle cable connects to the half round part near part #9, push it back to release the tension.
The choke cable connects near part #10 push the butterfly closed to release tension.
Your carb. is BN44
If you want to go the the main page (there's one too many http's in the above link), use www.atlanticjetsports.com/jetting.htm
Thanks again boyd, you've been a great help.
Lou
Thanks for the help, that's the diagram I was looking for.
Ashnic, take a look at this link http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/pdf/Mikuni_sbn_rebuild-kit.pdf
Can you see where the cables are connected, it doesn't show the cables but the throttle cable connects to the half round part near part #9, push it back to release the tension.
The choke cable connects near part #10 push the butterfly closed to release tension.
Your carb. is BN44
If you want to go the the main page (there's one too many http's in the above link), use www.atlanticjetsports.com/jetting.htm
Thanks again boyd, you've been a great help.
Lou
Last edited by a moderator:
Glad to help. I appreciated the help you gave me when I was doing mine.
I can also see where zip ties would be easier. I used hose clamps but it was awfull tricky hoding that clamp and turning the drive. Pulling on a zip tie would have been much easier.
Thanks to you Lou and all kind people like Dr. Honda for saving us "wanna bee mechanics" some serious $$$$ and time.
Boyd
I can also see where zip ties would be easier. I used hose clamps but it was awfull tricky hoding that clamp and turning the drive. Pulling on a zip tie would have been much easier.
Thanks to you Lou and all kind people like Dr. Honda for saving us "wanna bee mechanics" some serious $$$$ and time.
Boyd
http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaE1YzBb2HE
Not the exact carb, but you will get the jest of what the filter looks like.
Not the exact carb, but you will get the jest of what the filter looks like.
Boyd, Thanks for the compliment and glad to help. I'm really just a shade tree mechanic myself. I'm just passing on information and skills that I have learned from people like. Dr Honda, Seadoosnipe, bill86e, and others. These guys are the real hero's of this forum.
Lou
Lou
Had some others things gong tonight and didn't get a chance to mess with it...last thing I want to do is work on it and be aggreavated..Thanks for the extra info boyd...and Lou can't say enough...sometimes I think I might just overthink it as I am trying to figure out the mechanics of it instead of doing the obvious...will hit it hard this weekend...will keep you posted..
Doug212
New Member
Carb Rebuilds
I just did mine, I was able to keep the linkage between the carbs on and turn the carbs to assess both sides. The primer pump linkage came off when I rebuilt the pto side. These carbs are doing great.
You should take off the exhaust to make it easier to get to the carbs.
Also, the rebuild kits come with fuel pump rebuild stuff with new check valves. Take your time, 1 side at a time. I also hit all orifaces with carb cleaner.
FYI when you flip the carb over be careful not to put too much weight on the pulse nipple on the mag carb, I did and broke mine off. Fortunatally I am a plumber and it was brass and I was able to solder it.
I just did mine, I was able to keep the linkage between the carbs on and turn the carbs to assess both sides. The primer pump linkage came off when I rebuilt the pto side. These carbs are doing great.
You should take off the exhaust to make it easier to get to the carbs.
Also, the rebuild kits come with fuel pump rebuild stuff with new check valves. Take your time, 1 side at a time. I also hit all orifaces with carb cleaner.
FYI when you flip the carb over be careful not to put too much weight on the pulse nipple on the mag carb, I did and broke mine off. Fortunatally I am a plumber and it was brass and I was able to solder it.
Well got everything back together..fuel selector valve was dirty as all get out...some gunk in the tank...all lines replaced..took a while to finally get gas to the carbs...but when it did fired right up and sounds pretty good...hope to take to lake tomorrow and give her a try...
Congratulations, glad everything turned out O.K.
Adjust the idle for about 3000rpm on the trailer, it should idle about 1500rpm or so in the water, I like mine just a little higher, 1600-1700 so the ski doesn't rattle so much.
I would add some marine stabil to the gas for a couple of tanks, just to clean out any residual crap in the system.
Lou
Adjust the idle for about 3000rpm on the trailer, it should idle about 1500rpm or so in the water, I like mine just a little higher, 1600-1700 so the ski doesn't rattle so much.
I would add some marine stabil to the gas for a couple of tanks, just to clean out any residual crap in the system.
Lou
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