Runs great...just doesn't move!

[snal]

Just bought my first seadoo...a 1994 GTX. Hadn't been started in years, but it has decent compression 125/130, and it started right up with fresh fuel. Put it in the water yesterday...and it barely crept forward at full throttle! I could have paddled faster with my hands.
I pulled the pump housing and drive shaft...the shaft splines are fine...there's as much as .014 gap at the wear ring (which has some rough chew marks forward of the impeller)...and the leading edges of the impeller are somewhat dinged up....so is the wear my problem? It's also not pumping water at the indicator (unless I have it hooked to a hose...and pinch the main line)
TIA for any help!

 

[kustomkarl]

Welcome to the seadoo forum snal.It sounds like the wear ring and possible impeller need replacing. If the gap is too large it looses the seal it needs to send the thrust out the nozzle. It sound like the combination of the edge not correct and the gap is large too with gouges. If you have low pressure it won't squirt too much from the rear indicator spout.

Karl

 

[snal]

Thanks Karl...that's all that I could find as the culprit. I had no idea that the clearance had to be so tight for this thing to work...least not till I started reading a bit here.
Would the wear also cause it not to pump water thru the indicator spout?

Thanks for the welcome!

Snal~

 

[Skatman]

Water flow....

You said you can get water to flow through the "tell-tale" hole when you pinch off the water inlet from the pump. You shouldn't have to do that. Where the water comes in from the jet pump, there is a "tee" in place. That "tee" branches off to your water flush out connection.
If I understand you correctly, you say you have to pinch that line to make water come through the "tell-tale" hole. If this is the case, you have a restriction of some sort in the eninge. Water should flow freely through the engine without pinching off that hose.
But like Karl has said, I'd check the wear ring and impeller, correct those issues first, then check on the water flow. But the way you wrote it, sounds like you may have an issue with your water circulation system too.

 

[snal]

I printed an owners manual off the net...it stated that in order to do a complete flush...with a hose connected...you should pinch the main line to get water to pass thru the "tell tale" hole. This worked, as water did not pass thru the hole while using the hose hook up, unless the main line was restricted....but it also didn't squirt when I had the engine running while in the water. I'm assuming that the reason I had no thrust is also the reason that I had no squirt.(?)

Thanks!

Snal~

You said you can get water to flow through the "tell-tale" hole when you pinch off the water inlet from the pump. You shouldn't have to do that. Where the water comes in from the jet pump, there is a "tee" in place. That "tee" branches off to your water flush out connection.
If I understand you correctly, you say you have to pinch that line to make water come through the "tell-tale" hole. If this is the case, you have a restriction of some sort in the eninge. Water should flow freely through the engine without pinching off that hose.
But like Karl has said, I'd check the wear ring and impeller, correct those issues first, then check on the water flow. But the way you wrote it, sounds like you may have an issue with your water circulation system too.

 

[kustomkarl]

The tell-tale line just lets you know it is cooling the engine as a visual to see it is cooling. There is a blockage somewhere if it doesn't squirt while in the water. I would pull the lines off one by one and check for a blockage.If it isn't pushing water out the tell-tail than it isn't circulating cooling water. The tell-tail is at the "Beginning with a t connector "off the water cooling line. The impeller thrust doesn't have much to do with cooling directly except it needs to force water into the line as it is running. On the hose it should have great pressure, because it isn't relaying on ANY thrust to push the water in the cooling lines.

Karl

 

[snal]

Ok...I follow you...I think...but correct me if I'm wrong in thinking that the coolant water comes 100% from pressure built up within the pump housing, while it's running, even sitting still (in the water)...and there is no other water "pump".

Thanks again!

Snal~

The tell-tale line just lets you know it is cooling the engine as a visual to see it is cooling. There is a blockage somewhere if it doesn't squirt while in the water. I would pull the lines off one by one and check for a blockage.If it isn't pushing water out the tell-tail than it isn't circulating cooling water. The tell-tail is at the end of the water cooling line. The impeller thrust doesn't have much to do with cooling directly except it needs to force water into the line as it is running. On the hose it should have great pressure, because it isn't relaying on ANY thrust to push the water in the cooling lines.

Karl

 

[Skatman]

Correct....

Your correct, but I wouldn't worry about that issue till you solved the issue with the thrust. If you can get thrust from the nozzle, then you'll have a better idea of where you stand with the cooling water system/pressure.

 

[kustomkarl]

Exactly...if it isn't moving water through the jet pump assy...it isn't pushing water. If you tow the seadoo, you have to pinch off the feed line so water passing through the jet pump isn't forced into the engine and fill the cylinders Via the exhaust pipe, due to no back pressure from the engine not running.

Karl

 

[snal]

OK...clear as a bell now...thanks guys!
I picked this thing up for $500, so putting another $200 in repairs won't kill me. It had a broken bolt and a broken stud in the exhaust manifold. I replaced the stud, and drilled/tapped for a 3/8 bolt. Plugs were in bad shape, and the fuel was old...but I figured the trailer and parts were worth the price. I just had to get an education on how these things operate...couldn't figure out why the "prop" was turning but it wasn't moving!...LOL! I kept thinking "shear pin"...but there ain't one!:stupid:

Snal~

 

[Skatman]

Pretty good price....

That's a pretty good price. You can get the wearing ring and impeller for under $100 bucks at SBT........you have to send in your old impeller. But I'd bet that once you replace that wearing ring, you'll find your problems solved.

 

[snal]

I just checked their site...great prices! I'd done a google search for the impeller, and found one for $139...I assume it was stainless.
I also need to replace the neutral/reverse cable...it was stuck...and I yanked on it too hard and bent the guide tube at the front in half. Might be fixable once I get it out and have a look, but I doubt it.
I need to get a repair manual now...to figure out how to remove the impeller.

Snal~

 

[kustomkarl]

If you want you could join as a "premium member" As premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost makes and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.

Karl

 

[snal]

Might be well worth the price...since my brother is in the market for a used PWC too.

Snal~

Edit; I notice that the shop manual for my PWC is not listed...I also noticed that I started this thread in a SeaDoo "Boats" heading....sorry bout that!

If you want you could join as a "premium member" As premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost makes and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.

Karl

 

[derek]

did you check the splines on BOTH ends? i have pumps with large amounts gorged out of wear rings and they go pretty good. gonna do them this year though. i don't think wear ring will give you no thrust. i think the pto end is stripped out.

 

[snal]

Yes...I removed the shaft and checked both ends...even checked the splines in the flywheel and impeller...all are fine...but I did find an "extra" rubber bumper in the flywheel. It had been mashed flat and distorted after someone apparently didn't know it was left in the flywheel...and added another one.

Snal~

did you check the splines on BOTH ends? i have pumps with large amounts gorged out of wear rings and they go pretty good. gonna do them this year though. i don't think wear ring will give you no thrust. i think the pto end is stripped out.

 

[kustomkarl]

I checked in the manuals and the 1991 and prior seadoo's have their own manual for the older years. It has a lot of great information. It might not have all the information as some of the later models but it has lots of troubleshooting and procedure areas in there for like the jet pump and testing electrical components and bilge hoses. It does not have much on the cooling lines or direction of the hoses that you need

Karl

 

[robin savell lloyd]

There is a steel sleve in the impeller that the drive shaft goes into. It can come loose and it can be spun in the impeller some times. It is not supose to. good luck :cheers:

 

[snal]

Well...it's fixed!!!!! I'd ordered a new impeller, wear ring, and shaft seal, but when I was putting it all back together...I found the real problem. The splines in the PTO were worn out...they were in good shape towards the rear of the PTO...but once the impeller had a load on it...the shaft was able to move forward enough to get off of the good area of splines. They were worn so bad that there was no "sound" (grinding) when this occured.
I got a used PTO for free from a fellow camper...and she goes great now!
Tops out at 42mph with me and my dog (yes the dog loves to ride!)...or me, the dog, and the wife.

 

[kustomkarl]

That's great news! If we can be of any more assistance let us know.

Karl

 

[snal]

Thanks Karl.
I had checked the PTO earlier...but didn't catch the worn inner splines.

BTW...the "rope thru the sparkplug hole" worked great for locking my engine up for PTO removal.

That's great news! If we can be of any more assistance let us know.

Karl

 

[kustomkarl]

Glad to help out. Now go have some fun...You should post some pictures with your dog on the seadoo, in the Users Picture Gallery.

Karl