-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Rick's voltage regut
- Thread starter richardpr
- Start date
- Status
USAF_Pride
Member
Delt with his stuff a bit but mostly on suzuki GS bikes.
Some parts are sub quality and some are ok, I've seen many Returns from the guys on the GS forum's but the second time is usually ok.
I'm running a regulator and stator from him in my 1981 Suzuki gs540. It works fine but I know the weaknesses in them and fixed them first so it will last longer.
Really the best thing you could get is a SERIES type regulator (compufire is an example.) if you want to go aftermarket.
And for the stator, you would be best with OEM or build it yourself. As in rewind the stator and coat it with epoxy yourself so that you know for sure what you have and can be sure of the quality.
Some parts are sub quality and some are ok, I've seen many Returns from the guys on the GS forum's but the second time is usually ok.
I'm running a regulator and stator from him in my 1981 Suzuki gs540. It works fine but I know the weaknesses in them and fixed them first so it will last longer.
Really the best thing you could get is a SERIES type regulator (compufire is an example.) if you want to go aftermarket.
And for the stator, you would be best with OEM or build it yourself. As in rewind the stator and coat it with epoxy yourself so that you know for sure what you have and can be sure of the quality.
I just need a regulator. My stator is fine
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
This is who i speak of
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
This is who i speak of
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
What you have right now is called a SHUNT type regulator, what that means is that it regulates the voltage by shunting or SHORTING out the stator and making it build up heat since all that power has nowhere to go.
So if your stator is putting out 75VAC at 5000 rpm and up, that means your regulator is shorting out the stator to drop it down to 13.5V.
Look at it this way, if you were actually drawing a whole lot of power, Like running some 500W lights on your ski
then the stator would be working really hard and getting really hot and that big load would drop the voltage down quite a bit so the regulator wouldn't really be doing much work. At least then your stator is doing something useful to power those lights.
Well what do you think happens when you take that load off? The regulator starts shorting all that extra power to ground and your stator is still getting really hot and making lots of power even though its not doing anything useful for you.
The SERIES type regulator doesn't shunt, What it does is change how much its loading down the stator, So if you don't need to run those 500w lights, the regulator will only load down the stator a little bit instead of cooking it.
But the difference between the shunt and series regulators is the $ but that has since gone down.
There are different types of Shunt type regulators that are cheaper but don't hurt the stator as much.
These are called MosFet type regulators. They can adjust how much load they put on the stator sort of like the series one but its not as good. And the price is near what the oem costs
Here's and example of a high end Mosfet type
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FH020AA-Shindengen-Universal-upgrade-kit-with-free-PVC-wiring-sheathing-/271147003588?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f219eeec4&vxp=mtr
And a compufire,
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Voltage-Regulator-For-Compu-Fire-3-Phase-System-55402-/310397820396?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484526ddec&vxp=mtr
So if your stator is putting out 75VAC at 5000 rpm and up, that means your regulator is shorting out the stator to drop it down to 13.5V.
Look at it this way, if you were actually drawing a whole lot of power, Like running some 500W lights on your ski
then the stator would be working really hard and getting really hot and that big load would drop the voltage down quite a bit so the regulator wouldn't really be doing much work. At least then your stator is doing something useful to power those lights.Well what do you think happens when you take that load off? The regulator starts shorting all that extra power to ground and your stator is still getting really hot and making lots of power even though its not doing anything useful for you.
The SERIES type regulator doesn't shunt, What it does is change how much its loading down the stator, So if you don't need to run those 500w lights, the regulator will only load down the stator a little bit instead of cooking it.
But the difference between the shunt and series regulators is the $ but that has since gone down.
There are different types of Shunt type regulators that are cheaper but don't hurt the stator as much.
These are called MosFet type regulators. They can adjust how much load they put on the stator sort of like the series one but its not as good. And the price is near what the oem costs
Here's and example of a high end Mosfet type
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FH020AA-Shindengen-Universal-upgrade-kit-with-free-PVC-wiring-sheathing-/271147003588?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f219eeec4&vxp=mtr
And a compufire,
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Voltage-Regulator-For-Compu-Fire-3-Phase-System-55402-/310397820396?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484526ddec&vxp=mtr
Yup that's the one I'm talking about. Their parts are like oem, As in you take a blueprint of an oem and make one using what ever parts you can get cheaper.
For example, I bought a start relay, had to replace the contact bolts, had to replace the wires and plugs, herd something rattling inside and there was solder balls all over the place.
The regulator I got from him needed the wires reterminated and better connections installed.
The Stator, needed a complete recoating of epoxy and the wires replaced because the gage was too small, (they would get hot and melt the insulation.)
After all that though it was a great system, never had a problem with it... I've also herd some people bought the stuff with the impression that they were "made in usa" and their advertising said that as well, Then they got it and guess what, "Made in china" :facepalm:
On the other hand some have installed their parts and just replaced them when they go bad.
I'd buy their stuff, but not install it AS IS when i get it.
If you want an education, look into motorcycle 3 phase charging system's , Its the same as we use in the ski's Almost identical stator in my gsx as in my suzuki gs540
And those motorcycles had problems specificaly with the charging systems, thats why I know what I do Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Mechanix, are you using a series type regulator with your seadoo mpem?
ricardo's ski is an RFI, so I gently question if a series type will provide enough current and clean voltage. I do like series type, just not sure if it will work properly, need to think about that one.
I would consider the 4-tec RR, because it's beefier:
http://www.atlanticjetsport.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1297
ricardo's ski is an RFI, so I gently question if a series type will provide enough current and clean voltage. I do like series type, just not sure if it will work properly, need to think about that one.
I would consider the 4-tec RR, because it's beefier:
http://www.atlanticjetsport.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1297
jammin777
Well-Known Member
ck this out. what do you think?
http://www.osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=6&products_id=8
http://www.osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=6&products_id=8
That's a good question.
No, I'm still running the stock equipment, it hasn't failed yet.
On motorcycles it has been an upgrade though. And I'm sure just the headlight on a bike is more current than the entire RFI system would draw I would think. So if it could power that, the rfi wouldn't be that hard at all.
I don't think that the current is a question at all come to think of it, because the series still puts out the same amount of current (model dependent) as the stock or more but it does it more efficiently by not shunting the excess power, it just doesn't use it if its not needed.
The series would be the same as the 4tec one in terms of beefyness
but much more efficient. Actually i'd bet the 4 tec one is just a modern built mosfet type. Still great and does the job well. Its just not "as good as possible" The one and only thing i would worry about is the output voltage. Depending on the regulator, Some regulate at 14.4v all day long and boil batteries.
Some start off there and then drop to 13.5 and stay there all day. Seems like the oem stops at 13.5v and doesn't go any higher than that.
Looks alright, hard to say what makes it HD, could be bigger dioedes, better regulator, bigger heat sink....
The things to look for are, how many amps it can handle., Is it a plain shunt type or a mosfet type, or a series type... They usually don't say that stuff in the descriptions and to be honest some of the sellers don't know what's inside them.
Last edited by a moderator:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=134690&highlight=regulator+list&page=11
Here's where my information is coming from.
Here's where my information is coming from.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
It's a common upgrade to use the 4-tec RR, it beefier, 4-tecs have larger charging capacities to supply the current sucking fuel injection.
Just curious, What else will you have to do with either them ?
As in: Do the connectors match up or will you have to add yours to it? or is there a choice of which connections you can get.
Do the mounting holes match up? Not that big of a deal but good to know.
As in: Do the connectors match up or will you have to add yours to it? or is there a choice of which connections you can get.
Do the mounting holes match up? Not that big of a deal but good to know.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
A motorcycle headlight is probably 50 Watts and dims at idle, right? That's less than just the DI fuel pump, or very near, depending on if it's the OEM fuel pump. And that's not counting the fuel injectors pulsing, and the MPEM, then turn on a bilge blower and bow/stern lights you're getting close to maxing out 270Watts, I think, which isn't 270 Watts at idle. Battery discharging. Car alternators are 120Amps, that
s 120Ax14v=1680 Watts but not at idle, more like 65A at idle, 910 Watts.
The DI-951's are 270Watts max, and run into charging issues quite often after the unobtainable fuel pump craps out and a replacement gets shoehorned in the tank, 107psi takes a bunch of current and the good pump that draws 5 amps(60 Watts) was/is out of production. By the time all that fuel injection is done sucking current there are about 60 Watts of excess but if you don't get the good fuel pump that extra 60Watts is just about gone (270W MAX stator output)
I think I measured 13.8V on my battery running, but it hadn't been running for more than a couple minutes. 13.8 is good for me, I like it there, not enuff for a deep cycle battery, I bet.
jammin777
Well-Known Member
yes that is correct and they install the correct plugs for plug and play. mounting may be slightly different is all.
For what its worth, I bought a new osd rectifier this summer and lost 400-500 rpm off the top end. Everything else worked fine with it. This week I got a used OEM one from minnetonka and it works great, I gained the lost rpms back. So IMO I'd stick with an oem one. Unless you don't care about those extra rpms. Made about a 4 mph difference at top end on my 96 xp.
jammin777
Well-Known Member
hmmm, interesting. thanks for sharing.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
That's VERY interesting! Were there any other symptoms noted other than RPM loss? Did either of these regulators have a manufacturer's name on them?
Tympanium is a large OEM supplier, not sure where Seadoo's RR's are sourced from and probably never will find out.
I typically do use OEM parts though, when working on customer boats and skis b/c there's no question concerning quality. Thus I often have limited experience with third source supplier parts performance.
- Status
