Replacing Oil Pressure Switch on 2008 Wake 215

[Collinwake]

Newbie to Seadoo here but wrench most of my stuff. I got the dreaded low oil pressure alarm on my 2008 Wake 215. When I removed the oil pressure sensor (only has one in the rear), there was oil leaking through to the electrical connector. The switch was obviously compromised. Hooked up an oil pressure gage and pressure was high when I started it up (60-70 psi idle, 95-100 when revved up). I thought maybe the oil pressure regulator was not opening. I put it in the water and drove it with the pressure gage hooked up and when it warmed up, Idle pressure lowered to 35-40 and 60-70 when running at speed. According to the MNT manual, this is what your supposed to read. The manual also says the oil pressure regulator is supposed to open at 58 psi to limit oil pressure. So if some of you guys with experience: Is my oil pressure regulator working properly? Because my oil pressures are high until the engine gets hot.

Should be getting my replacement pressure switch today. The switch mating surface is smooth (looks like it's stainless steel) but my crankcase penetration face is a little pitted. Did not have an oil leak before removing. Noticed that some eBay switches (I purchased OEM) have a copper crush washer with the new switch. I have some of these and was wonder if I should use one to prevent a leak. Any thoughts on that?


on the

 

[mkov608]

From pg 113 of your service manual, cold idle oil pressure range is 65-94 PSI; since pressure is the resistance to flow, and cold oil doesn't flow very well, higher oil pressure is normal when the engine is cold. According to the schematic, the oil pressure regulator (also called a relief valve, item 3, in the table on page 109) relieves excess pressure back into the pressure pump inlet. Depending on the designed maximum flow rate of the relief valve, the pump may overwhelm the relief valve; meaning, the pump is capable of producing more flow than the relief valve can bypass. We'll never know since BRP doesn't provide the technical data specs like oil pump flow in GPM at specific RPM and oil temps, relief valve cracking pressure, relief valve full open pressure, max flow rate, reseating pressure etc.

The surface finish on the side of the block is not critical since the threads seal the joint; use some Teflon thread sealant on the threads. The new sensor will come with this sealant pre-applied. Make sure you torque the sensor to specification, 142 inch lbs.

Just so you know, there is a second oil pressure port on the cylinder head; it's easier to get to.

 

[ski-d00]

The oil temp sensors have the sealing crush washer which yours doesn't have. The oil pressure sensors have the sealing threads. Your oil pressure sounds fine and the oil pressure regulator also sounds like it is working fine.

 

[Collinwake]

Thenkyou Mkov and ski-d00 for your feedback. That helps. Mkov, where did you find the torque value for the OPS, it was not in the maintenance manual (at least in the lubrication section that I searched).