Rebuilt my pump-should I be concerned?

[Luv2Camp]

Rebuilt by 95 GTX pump today with SBT rebuilt impeller, WSM bearings and SX brand impeller shaft. Used the bearing/seal install tool and installed on my press. I lubed up the bearings and shaft and the shaft went easy into the first bearing but I had to give it some taps on the housing to get it past the second bearing and to get it seated all the way. Pump is all back together and it spins freely so I know I did not pinch the thrust bearing. Should I be concerned it took some pressure to get the shaft past both bearings or let it go? Because it is tight, I have zero play in the shaft but like I said, it spins easy.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

should be good to go. Only one way to find out....put it in the chilly water.

What type of press do you have?
Is the SBT impeller the same pitch as your old one.....a guy on here kept getting the wrong one from them.

 

[Luv2Camp]

should be good to go. Only one way to find out....put it in the chilly water.

What type of press do you have?
Is the SBT impeller the same pitch as your old one.....a guy on here kept getting the wrong one from them.

Harbor Freight 20 ton. I think that guy was me! They sent me an incorrect one the first time, the second one I believed was incorrect but conflicting info on line. When I spoke with SBT they assured me it is the correct pitch. When I look in the service manual, it shows the same pitch as mine but for an XP. SBT assured me there are about 5 interchange numbers for the 95 GTX.

 

[Waterluvr]

So long as it doesn't have a dead spot where you feel resistance when it spins you should be good to go, how do you like that press btw?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Sounds like you're good to go, especially since it spins free. I wouldn't be too worried even if it didn't spin absolutely free.

How's the 10psi pressure check. good?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Sounds like you're good to go, especially since it spins free. I wouldn't be too worried even if it didn't spin absolutely free.

How's the 10psi pressure check. good?

Sportster told me the same thing when mine wasn't even spinning :-D
Just kidding. Mine was very very tight going through the bearings because the housing damage from the leak and overheating. So far was ok after about 4 hours of running.


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[Luv2Camp]

So long as it doesn't have a dead spot where you feel resistance when it spins you should be good to go, how do you like that press btw?

The press is awesome! You pick up one this past weekend?

 

[Luv2Camp]

Sounds like you're good to go, especially since it spins free. I wouldn't be too worried even if it didn't spin absolutely free.

How's the 10psi pressure check. good?

Held for 10 min. Good to go there!

 

[Luv2Camp]

Sportster told me the same thing when mine wasn't even spinning :-D
Just kidding. Mine was very very tight going through the bearings because the housing damage from the leak and overheating. So far was ok after about 4 hours of running.


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Thanks for the input! Getting stuck with a blown motor a mile from shore on Lake Erie this summer SUCKED... I have a fear of getting that new motor in there and having the pump go! LOL... I will be breaking it in for 10 hours in my local lake for sure!!!

 

[Bonmotwang]

Make sure do the right thing on the oil plug. Loctite 518 or other known working stuff. This the most important step after you have done everything correctly.


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[Waterluvr]

The press is awesome! You pick up one this past weekend?

Not yet I've been buried winterizing and shrink wrapping but I am headed that way to get one this week at some point I buy all my hose pinchers there to and I need to pick up several sets of those while I'm at it.

I so needed a real press yesterday to had to drive all the way up the shop to get a stupid little flange bearing off a shaft that was frozen on, damn near destroyed it using a 8 ton jaw puller press took it off in less than a minute.

 

[Luv2Camp]

Make sure do the right thing on the oil plug. Loctite 518 or other known working stuff. This the most important step after you have done everything correctly.


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I used Permatex thread sealant similar to the loctite 592

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Sportster told me the same thing when mine wasn't even spinning :-D
Just kidding. Mine was very very tight going through the bearings because the housing damage from the leak and overheating. So far was ok after about 4 hours of running.


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What can happen is a needle can be damaged, like bent or a flat spot if too much brute force is applied. In that case I think you can feel a binding action almost like grinding while spinning.

Your pump housing was damaged, so you had nothing to lose really except a shaft perhaps.

Will be good to find if it has loosened up some, but last time you checked there was no change, still stiff, that surprised me.

 

[Bonmotwang]

What can happen is a needle can be damaged, like bent or a flat spot if too much brute force is applied. In that case I think you can feel a binding action almost like grinding while spinning.

Your pump housing was damaged, so you had nothing to lose really except a shaft perhaps.

Will be good to find if it has loosened up some, but last time you checked there was no change, still stiff, that surprised me.

Right. I was surprised too. hard driving for a couple of hours that spot was still there.
So may not be a flat spot, could be a bent needle, so that it just got pushed in and out, with enough oil there, is not going to cause any material loss.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I used Permatex thread sealant similar to the loctite 592

We've had some problems with that plug leaking. I've noticed on mine when the plug leaks there will be oil in the water and when the pump is out of water and completely dried the cone was still wet with oil and a puddle of oil was on top of the pipe plug. I could stick my hand in there and get oil on my fingers.

So keep an eye on the plug and see if oil is leaking from there.

 

[Luv2Camp]

Well, I have been losing sleep over this. Tonight I decided to tear the pump down again and with the oil drained out, I could now feel a tight spot and hear a grinding noise when the shaft hit the tight spot. I pulled the shaft out and fits into first bearing like butter but not the second one. Removed the bearings and looks like when I punched out the bearing, I hit the brass and mushroomed the edge. Appears this was putting pressure on the bearing. Filed down the high spot and ordered another bearing kit.... Going to pick it up tomorrow at OSD as I will be near them during my travels and will press the new ones in tomorrow night. Hope the second set goes in better! LOL...

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

It's probably worth while taking care of that to avoid potential housing damage, never know what the outcome might've been. Sounds like the bearings might be tricky to install, though?

Did you notice if the gouge in the bronze occurred due to bearing misalignment, or perhaps the replacement bearing race leading edge wasn't chamfered? Any notable differences in the OEM and replacement?

What was the original reason for replacing the bearings in the first place, were they worn out?

Obviously, I'd like to avoid this problem when the day comes my pump needs new bearings.

Edit:"when I punched out the bearing, I hit the brass and mushroomed the edge."

nvm - I see you think the damage occurred from using the bearing tool.

 

[Luv2Camp]

It's probably worth while taking care of that to avoid potential housing damage, never know what the outcome might've been. Sounds like the bearings might be tricky to install, though?

Did you notice if the gouge in the bronze occurred due to bearing misalignment, or perhaps the replacement bearing race leading edge wasn't chamfered? Any notable differences in the OEM and replacement?

What was the original reason for replacing the bearings in the first place, were they worn out?

Obviously, I'd like to avoid this problem when the day comes my pump needs new bearings.

I think the issue was because I had a bulge in the brass from hitting it with the punch taking the bearings out. I will not know for sure until I install the new set tomorrow night. The only difference from the OE was the oil seal. If you have a press and the bearing install tool it is really straight forward. One side of the tool presses in the bearing to the correct depth and the other side of the tool handles the seal. I replaced it because the ski is 20 years old and was all factory. I put a new wear ring in and when I removed the shaft I found a few deep gouges so figured might as well put new bearings in it along with a new shaft. I plan on doing a few trips on Lake Erie next season again and I go 10 or so miles out. Trying not to get stuck again out there!

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Okay, thanks. I didn't realize you drove the bearings in/out absent using a hydraulic press. I'd suggested a couple times a quickie way to make a bearing press by constructing a frame using 2x6's and a hydraulic bottle jack, but I haven't tried this myself to replace seadoo jet pump bearings, so can't confirm it would work well enough.

 

[Luv2Camp]

Okay, thanks. I didn't realize you drove the bearings in/out absent using a hydraulic press. I'd suggested a couple times a quickie way to make a bearing press by constructing a frame using 2x6's and a hydraulic bottle jack, but I haven't tried this myself to replace seadoo jet pump bearings, so can't confirm it would work well enough.

I punched them out and used a hydraulic press for the install..

 

[Bonmotwang]

Can anybody here installed a new set of bearings and shaft in an old housing confirm that the shaft still moves in and out "like butter"?

 

[Waterluvr]

Can anybody here installed a new set of bearings and shaft in an old housing confirm that the shaft still moves in and out "like butter"?

Sure can, in fact I learned the hard way a long time ago to not beat the old bearings out of there having a proper press to remove them is a real plus. Not saying it can't be done otherwise but those new cages are pretty thin and it doesn't take much to compress one of them if there's a burr on the housing going back in.

 

[racerxxx]

Can anybody here installed a new set of bearings and shaft in an old housing confirm that the shaft still moves in and out "like butter"?

Yep. Old pump, new bearings and seals with an OLD shaft (not new like you mentioned), new impeller and new wear ring and it works perfect. A new seal will be tight. But the end play was just like always, just a little tighter to get it to move. If you get no end play you have to check the washer/bearing in the back by the cone.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Thanks guys.

I should keep an eye on a 947/951 pump housing for my boat during the winter. I think every hour out of that pump is a bonus for me, but that tight spot just concerns me, and I need to have a back up.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Okay, thanks. I didn't realize you drove the bearings in/out absent using a hydraulic press. I'd suggested a couple times a quickie way to make a bearing press by constructing a frame using 2x6's and a hydraulic bottle jack, but I haven't tried this myself to replace seadoo jet pump bearings, so can't confirm it would work well enough.

Hey Sportster, you must have tried 2x6 for the framing!
My DIY press using 2x4's is just a hair shy when pressing those bearing. It works OK, but 2x6 is the right starting point after the test.