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Pop off test question....

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spx787

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I should be receiving my pop off tester from OSD today. I also just so happen to have the carbs off. Gonna do a pop off test tonight. My question is, what do you guys use to block off the outlets? Some type of common household item I could use would be great. I saw a youtube vid where the dude was using those squishy ear plugs to block them off lol!

Also, do I need to block off the pulse as well?
 
Just the outlet line. If you look at top of carb you will see the arrows for in and out lines. Mine the top line is out.
 
Your finger works just fine too. Make sure you use some WD40 on the needle it needs to be "wet" each time you test it.
 
I have no other springs to put in it right now but I need to test it because I am getting a bog and even dying going from idle to throttle. I can feather it to get it going. Once going, it runs great. I'm guessing my pop off is the problem.

You can also bend the arm up or down slightly to adjust pop off correct? Bend it down for more tension and later pop and up for less tension and earlier pop.
 
Don't change the springs in the carbs. Again, do not change your pop off. You need everything as per stock settings, from low and high speed needle adjustments to pop off psi. If it is within range leave it alone. Range is pretty wide, so if your within it, and both carbs are pretty close to each other 1-3 psi then you are good to go.

-Use your finger to cover up carb fuel exit pipe. I was suggesting you get a pop off tester because it is also used to test and see if carb needle and seat is stuck open due to lever being bent ever so slightly and keeping needle out of seat at idle allowing fuel to enter carb throat. Needle is supposed to be seated in seat at idle.

-This was my problem and caused bogging, hard start, rich condition. I diagnosed it by starting ski up with air filters and everything removed. Letting ski idle and real quick looking down each carb throat with mirror and flashlight....MAG carb was dribbling fuel into throat causing engine to run very rich thus culprit of my problems. I took carb off, and before dis-assembly I performed the psi hold test I mentioned in your other threads. Put finger on fuel exit pipe of carb, pop off tester hose on fuel inlet...pump up to 10 psi, and it needs to hold that for 30 secs. I actually pump it up higher to 20 psi and make it hold for longer as I am adamant about verifying the needle is seated. Sure enough mine was bleeding down, and you can see bubbles around needle and seat area while doing this proving that air is leaking past seat, ( use wd40 to lubricate the whole area, bubbles will arise from it ) and that shows why it was dribbling. I adjusted my lever arm. Retested. Reassembled, and retested multiple times. Now ski has never run better.

FYI: A small tip: If you ask all of these questions in 1 thread it will be much easier for everyone to chip in and know what you have already done and not done. Starting a new thread for every single question will create lots of back and forth questions from guys who know your answer, but haven't seen your other threads.

Rob
 
Yep, get it lubricated and this is where your bubbles will arise. Plus for testing pop off.

Rob

Your finger works just fine too. Make sure you use some WD40 on the needle it needs to be "wet" each time you test it.
 
Did my pop off test. The MAG carb worked great popping off at ~ 37 psi and held pressure like a champ. The PTO carb wasn't really popping but would start releasing air at ~ 35 psi. I took the needle out and cleaned it really well and then it began popping off at 35 and would hold pressure but not as well as the MAG carb. It would drop faster but was still within the 30 second limit. Pretty sure this one has a slow leak at the needle and seat. Anyhow, I'll be rebuilding this carb in the near future. The MAG carb is stout though. I'll probably wait to rebuild it this winter.

Gonna try and put the ski in the water this weekend (weather permitting because rain is in the forecast) and see how it does. Thanks for all the help and I'll report back after a water test.
 
-You can adjust lever at needle and seat for the bleed down of pressure. It may still be a old/worn needle and seat but the adjustment is still worth a try to remedy the bleed down. The bleed down test is that no pressure should be lost within that 30 sec period. So for 30 seconds the gauge must read 10 psi and no less. I pump mine up to 20 psi ( still less than pop off ) and count for over 30 seconds.

-Make sure to have generous amounts of WD-40 in and around needle and seat when doing these tests. You can do them with plate off of that side of carb. But I redo the test afterwards, and found that the diaphragm was pushing on lever once plate and 4 screws were installed. Took it back apart and adjust lever down more.

-There is a good tutorial on all this in .PDF form, but basically you want to take a razor blade and use it as your level point to verify the lever is flush or slightly below the carbs body.

Rob
 
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