One Engine won't start

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Matthewts

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One engine won't start on my 97 challenger 1800. One engine fires right up and the other goes "clunk". I am new to this so I tried the "hammer attack" with no success. I pulled the starter, took it to a rebuild shop, and was told that it was okay. Upon reinstalling it, the engine will not turn over a few times then quit, turn over once or twice, and then nothing when you push the button again. The other engine, even after all of this, still starts right up. Wait 5-10 min and go back to the other engine and the same sequence of events occurs. . . . I have tried another battery directly connected to the starter via jumper cables to no avail. . . Battery issue ? Solenoid issue ? other ? Any help would be appreciated.
 
One engine won't start on my 97 challenger 1800. One engine fires right up and the other goes "clunk". I am new to this so I tried the "hammer attack" with no success. I pulled the starter, took it to a rebuild shop, and was told that it was okay. Upon reinstalling it, the engine will not turn over a few times then quit, turn over once or twice, and then nothing when you push the button again. The other engine, even after all of this, still starts right up. Wait 5-10 min and go back to the other engine and the same sequence of events occurs. . . . I have tried another battery directly connected to the starter via jumper cables to no avail. . . Battery issue ? Solenoid issue ? other ? Any help would be appreciated.

compression check should be your first order of business, then check all the ground connections as well.
 
Compression checks out at 140 psi in both cylinders. Wired engine that wouldn't run to solenoid of one that does work to test solenoid/switch and still the same thing occurs . . .
 
Check the ground wire going to the starter area of the engine. If it looks good, it still might need a new end on the cable and a good connection to turn the starter. If the engine had good compression then it isn't seized. Make sure the battery is in great condition and the has a full charge.

Karl
 
Now this is starting to get expensive. Ordered a new starter from Overton's and installed it. . still same result. This time I noticed that the battery pos cable got very warm but only about the first 6-8 inches near the battery. Not warm at all up where it enters the fuse/distribution box, and not warm at the starter either ? Anyone have anything for me ?
:boxing_smiley:
 
could have a "sheared" woodruff key, located on crank, that aligns the flywheel. You''l need to pull the mag cover, to inspect...
 
sounds silly but my boat( the starboard engine) does the same thing when the fuel is low.. not empty but low. Past the point of the reserve but when i look at the tank i can see fuel four five inches up.
 
Engine is NOT locked up. . . Pulled the PTO cover and I was barely able to turn it over. . . it was tight as I would expect it to be with the plugs still in . . . any other ideas ?
 
Alright, still learning. . .where is the mag cover ? front, rear ? What does it look like and what am I looking for once I get it off ?
 
front of motor, stud. Pull cover to inspect the flywheel, how its mounted on crank. Theres a "woodruff" key, that aligns it. They can/will shear..
 
So I pulled the plugs today and the engine turns over freely using the PTO with the plugs out. Hooked the battery back up and and it easily turned the engine over for an extended period of time (10-15 sec) I let it blow out some of the fogging oil. Then put the plugs back in and same result. I get one good 2-3 sec turn over of the engine and then "clunk".

Does the fact that the engine easily turned over with the starter when the plugs were out eliminate the possibility of a sheered woodruff key ?
 
So I pulled the plugs today and the engine turns over freely using the PTO with the plugs out. Hooked the battery back up and and it easily turned the engine over for an extended period of time (10-15 sec) I let it blow out some of the fogging oil. Then put the plugs back in and same result. I get one good 2-3 sec turn over of the engine and then "clunk".

Does the fact that the engine easily turned over with the starter when the plugs were out eliminate the possibility of a sheered woodruff key ?
I have the exact same issues with a 98 challenger 1800.
Have you gotten yours fixed yet?
 
Now this is starting to get expensive. Ordered a new starter from Overton's and installed it. . still same result. This time I noticed that the battery pos cable got very warm but only about the first 6-8 inches near the battery. Not warm at all up where it enters the fuse/distribution box, and not warm at the starter either ? Anyone have anything for me ?
:boxing_smiley:

Did you replace the positive cable?

Chester
 
Finally got it fixed today and not sure how this fixed it but this is what someone told me on another forum and it worked !!!!! As I stated before the engine will turn over fine with no plugs, but when the plugs return the "clunk" begins. I pulled both plugs and turned it over and noticed that the front cylinder was pushing out a lot more of the "oil/gas mix" so I put the plug back in the BACK cylinder and got it running on one cylinder (with the hose attached of course) and let it run a bit like that until it appeared as those most of the mix was no longer being pushed out the front cylinder. Then put the front plug back in and I was up and running with a lot of smoke, which eventually burned off and went away. . . I think either one of my internal seals was bad letting the oil/gas mix enter in the engine cavity ( I might have left the fuel valve in the "on" position all winter too) or I used too much fogging oil in that engine when I winterized it.
:hurray::cheers:
 
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