No fuel going to fuel filter. 1998 GS

[NorthernNeck]

Engine will only run with starting fluid. So I check around and found the fuel filter empty. Tank has been siphoned and new gas (4 gal.) installed. Is my fuel pump bad? Help - I am first year owner. Took me forever to find the fuses and filter as I didn't know the bucket in the front could be removed....

 

[- BiRkS_]

STOP. DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID! it has no lubricants and will roast your top end if you continue. Use either a teaspoon of premix gas or I've used a cheapy squirt bottle or even an old mustard container with 50/1 mixed fuel.

As for the filter not getting gas... First thing to check is the fuel selector switch. Often overlooked. Make sure it is either on "ON" or "RES" Next would be to double check all the fuel lines for leaks or loose fittings. Any air leaks will make it very hard for the fuel pump to suck fuel.

Let us know what you find after that.

 

[Robj]

If the tank was right empty could it be that the fuel level is still below the pick-up? Try putting it on res or add some more fuel. If that does not help, make sure the filter is on air tight. If all checks out, time for a carb rebuild.

 

[LouDoo]

Also check the "O" ring inside the fuel filter/water separator, a bad seal will cause an air leak.

Lou

 

[NorthernNeck]

Thanks for all the info. No more starting fluid! I mixed up some gas/oil in a old liquid wrench squirt bottle. I put 4 more gallons of gas in. Still couldn't get her to run on her own. I called a jet ski repair guy off craigslist. From my initial description to him, he thought carb rebuild and would charge me $100 + part. He sounded really knowledgeable with good and fair pricing. He suggested it pour 2 oz of my fuel mix in to see if I could get it running. It would run a couple of minutes with that much in - enough to get a hose and run water thru but then die from not getting fuel thru the lines. So I took it to him and we talked about it for a few minutes and he was still going down the rebuild path when I told him my fuel filter wouldn't fill. He switched my fuel valve to RES and I watched it fill as he started it up w/o pouring any additional fluid in it. Filter stayed full and it ran like a champ on its own. I guess I didn't leave it on RES long enough at home when I was trying. My fuel valve is bad. When in the ON position no fuel is delivered, but in RES all is OK.

He looked over my ski and I told him that the previous owner had told me I have a new from factory engine. He confirmed that is was not a rebuild and that it indeed appeared to be a new 717 and really well taken care of. After market Hydro-Turf (I didn't know it wasn't stock) too. So all is well now.

 

[dsteinmann]

Are your fuel lines Grey? Could be their breaking down and clogged the selector. Probably needs to be cleaned

 

[bell99man]

Your selector valve is probably full of gunk, most likely from the gray fuel lines. If they have not been replaced and the mechanic did not mention that is his repair evaluation, don't go back to him. Your carb will stop up and she won't run like a champ any more. This is a known very common problem that causes many dollars of repair with plenty of down time. It should be the first thing a good repairman looks for in a fuel delivery or no start but turns over diagnosis. If they are in fact still gray, replace them with black 1/4in or 6mm auto fuel line from any auto store. You will need 20 ft or 7m and about 10 stainless still hose clamps. It is not hard to do except for reaching the fuel baffle in the GS. I would highly recommend installing a Fram G2 inline filter in the line going to the carb about even with the oil filter. This is a much better filter and it's a good place to see it and replace as needed. Good luck

Kevin

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

I'm not sure I'd count out the mechanic, the grey fuel lines have an issue with ethanol fuel. there are many locations in the US that have pure gas and may not have the issue. Many marina's also sell 'pure gas'.

however, yes, I would swap the lines anyway as it's a $20 fix.

 

[NorthernNeck]

He did recommend replacing the grey lines right off the bat. I can remove the valve and try to clean or replace - or run on RES I guess for a while.. As for removing the valve - I took the nipple off the center and removed the screw. Pulled the selector knob off and saw a large nut. So if I loosen the nut what will I need to do next to get the valve out?

And SabrToothSqrl - I do use Marine grade non ethanol only which is sold at many locations around the Chesapeake Bay.

 

[kicker]

once you get that big nut off it will fall through the hole towards the inside of the hull. You will need to disconnect the 3 fuel lines so you can get it out to clean. At each nipple on the selector valve it will say were that fuel line is going to RES, ON and RET. Mark your hoses so they go back the same way. This is what the valve will look like

 

[bell99man]

I thought US gas producers were required to add 10% ethanol for auto use which is what most stores sell, but yes other sources are out there so his could be fine. But something is clogging up the run side of that valve, or maybe the rubber in it has a crack on that side of it causing it to pull air.

Well, if you like the guy and he seems straight up, just ask him about the fuel line issues you have heard these machines develop over time and see how he responds. He should be familiar with your area and the problems he sees. Or you can just look at yours where they connect to the carb nipples. If you see green sticky goo anywhere, the lines are breaking down. You will be able to see this better by taking off the breather box.

 

[NorthernNeck]

Kicker - Thanks for the valve pics and instructions... Bell99man - I live on the Chesapeake and a lot of our stations cater to the Crabbers, watermen, etc... Marinas have the ethanol free also, but even our gas stations have it for boaters. @ $3.69 gal vs $3.39 for 10%. So I have put the Marine gas in the ski since August 2012 when I got her. Prior to that who knows but I'd bet it was auto gas...

Mechanic and I discussed the gas. He knew all about water bonding to ethanol and gunk build up. He did a lot of feeling certain lubes between fingers and smelling. Thought my ski was in great shape overall. He was not a fan of the oil injection and if it was his he would block it off and pre-mix

 

[bell99man]

Well, everyone has an opinion on the oil injection but if maintained properly it is very reliable and uses a heck of a lot less oil. All you have to do is replace the little injection lines and the oil filter every 2-3 years. The feed and return lines can be done about half as often. The cable is under the carb and moves with the throttle to vary the output. If this ever breaks, it flops wide open so it puts the maximum into the motor. Other jetski brands have more actual pump failure but seadoos are quite good.

With your ski the gas damage would come from the past 11-12 years of use IF ethanol was used. I would do like I said and look at those connections for the green goo just for peace of mind. It is the tell. Since you have the selector valve mostly out, look at those connections. take them off and look down in the nipples. if you see any thing in there, green around the nipple or black and green varnish inside the nipple the lines are the culprit. Mine was nearly completely stopped up as were all of the carb lines. I could not believe it would even run.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

the latest ski for me to wrench on had grey lines and wouldn't start. replaced all the lines and inspected the fuel switch. it was caked and clogged FULL of white powder goo. I used WD-40 to clean it out. and screwdriver lol. Also, replace the whole fuel filter assembly, it's like $1 more than just the filter, or sometimes cheaper! the whole assembly i think was $3 cheaper than the filter alone. Figure that out!

 

[Coastiejoe]

It can not be said enough.

Get rid of the grey tempo lines Iimediately.

After that the fuel valve needs cleaned as well as the filters inside the carbs.

THIS IS A MUST DO FOR YOU. !!

 

[NorthernNeck]

I will replace the grey lines in a couple of weeks. Also -after getting the new engine the Ski sat for 4 years 2008 -2012 in a garage w/o running. It didn't have a home....

The breather box seems to be tricky to remove. I cant see down there too well I guess a mirror would help. I removed the allen screws from the metal arrestor and a couple more from the top metal bracket, but nothing budges. Any ideas on what to loosen next?

 

[bell99man]

Did you remove the two from the head or the other end? I think from the head makes it easier but that should be it on the box. It might need a "love tap" but not too hard. Did you look at everything on the selector?
Oh, and don't run it without changing these lines. IF it starts clogging the carbs, she will run lean and that can cook the edge of the piston causing the ring to break out and bam, you nice new engine is toast. Brief lean runs might not present a problem but prolonged is engine death. If you are unsure, check the spark plug color while hot when you ride. the lighter and drier they are the leaner it is running. Lean has more air than it needs causing higher temps.

 

[NorthernNeck]

I removed the 2 screws from the top of the box connected to a bracket. Still seemed tight like there is more to unscrew before it will become free to remove.

Also - regarding the stainless clamps on the fuel lines. Can they be reused or should I buy a new box?

Fuel lines - Is 1/4 = 6mm? I went to NAPA and all they had 7mm and 5/8. I will try AutoZone.

 

[kicker]

There are 6 blocks on the black part that slide over, that will allow you to separate the top half and the bottom half. On the one side of the block is a little tab that you need to lift up, while you have it lifted slide the tab over, do that to all 6. The ones on the sides slide towards the outside, the ones on the ends slide up towards the engine.

Sent using Tapatalk

 

[kicker]

Sent using Tapatalk

 

[LouDoo]

Kicker,

My wife says I'm anal about my ski's, but they're dirty compared to yours.

I know I haven't been active on this thread, but I have a couple of questions. Did the ski run when you got it? If it did run what were the conditions before it stopped running.

Personally if it were my ski I would start back at square one, rebuild the entire fuel delivery system, clean and/or replace everything, including the carbs.

Here's an older thread on the subject, it's still good advice.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...el-Delivery-Problems-low-revs-bogging-surging

Lou

 

[NorthernNeck]

LouDoo - runs fine now - the only problem was that the fuel valve doesn't work in the ON position. RES iworks fine and fires her up. From discussions here I need to replace my fuel lines. I may need to order - I have been to three stores and all are out. NAPA wanted $38 bucks for 25 ft of black 1/4, but they didn't have in stock. AutoZone none. Tractor supply - 3 ft pieces. I have 3 more to check tomorrow or it'll be Amazon. I found marine B grade on the net for the NAPA price.

Kicker - thanks for the pics, but I have already been down that far.... removed the 6 black tabs and the 6 or 8 allen screws on the metal grate (spark arrestor). Plus I removed the two allen screws on the plate that is on top by the plugs. Dont I need to remove the bottom of the black breather too - in order to get to my lines and carb easily? What is next to remove? I think I'm making this too hard... :-0

 

[NorthernNeck]

Bell99man - haven't been home to inspect and clean out the valve yet.

 

[kicker]

The flame arrestor came out of a tight fitting black box, there are 4 bolts in there. Undue those and the box will come off the carbs. It might be stuck on there a bit because of some sealeant, but a little tug should do it.

Sent using Tapatalk

 

[bell99man]

I found marine B grade on the net for the NAPA price.

They don't have to be marine grade. Jetskis are exempt from some coast guard regulation including the motor. It will not matter performance or safety wise and the auto stuff is good and usually easy to find.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO7EN6

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Line-1...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d291cf85&vxp=mtr

just found these online, auto parts websites were not very good for this oddly.