New to me 95 SPi

[marquisman]

I'm working on getting the SPi ready for the warmer weather (if it ever decides to get here), I picked up some XPS jet pump oil, 2-stroke oil, and a battery.

The battery is where my current issue arises. It happens to have the stupidest post design ever thought up for a battery (see image).
Each post has a square nut that has to be held in place while a bolt with the cables is screwed into it.
I managed to drop both nuts and of course they both ended up under the engine. I tried flushing them out with both air and water. No luck.
Any tips?

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How long are the bolts? If the bolts are long enough, just run some electrical tape around the post, with the nut in position of course. We deal with the batteries at work, that have the shallow nuts that flop around. To fix this, we take a piece of the vent hose(usually comes with battery) and jam it in under the nut.

 

[nammer]

go to lowes and get the same size nuts and washers wouldn't hurt for that battery cable, but stainless, i've had one of those nuts that came with the battery completely disintegrate on me

 

[marquisman]

Crap, didn't fully read lol. Yea, hardware store or auto parts store should carry a good selection. Go with stainless.

 

[psyviperx]

Ten 4. I'll grab some stainless hardware this week.
I guess I'll just wait for the two lost nuts to make their way aft.

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[psyviperx]

Pulled the cone off to change the jet pump oil the other day.
Instead of stinky gear oil I got a splash of water and some jelled gear oil. Nice.
Soaked it real good with a foaming degreaser and let it drain. Some of the gelled oil is still working is way out.
Is there a way to "flush" it or should I just fill it run a while then change it again?

Also, while looking through to the impeller I noticed there's about 1/4" clearance between the wear ring and impeller. The impeller looks to be in decent shape, no large chips or anything. Do the wear rings really wear that much or its it a combination of the impeller and ring being worn?

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[marquisman]

Sounds like the bearing seal is bad, if you have water mixed with oil. Maybe the bearing is also bad, causing play in the shaft. That will also cause wear, everywhere else. Depending on the hours and if the ring is original yea, might need replacement. A full pump service seems to be in order.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I

Random Question of the Day: Where do you guys keep your registration and insurance cards?

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I have a dry bag that I keep all my important things in such as registrations, insurance cards. Wallet, money, daughters proof of boaters course card ect ect.

I keep it in the house when the skis are home or in storage. Put it in the storage bin when I go riding.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I'm working on getting the SPi ready for the warmer weather (if it ever decides to get here), I picked up some XPS jet pump oil, 2-stroke oil, and a battery.

The battery is where my current issue arises. It happens to have the stupidest post design ever thought up for a battery (see image).
Each post has a square nut that has to be held in place while a bolt with the cables is screwed into it.
I managed to drop both nuts and of course they both ended up under the engine. I tried flushing them out with both air and water. No luck.
Any tips?

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

Easy solution.

Find the nut, (which will be the hard part). Slip a small piece of rubber under the nut if the bolts are not long enough to reach them when installing the bolt. In either case, take a wire tie and place it around the post an zip it tight. The nut and rubble will always stay in place.

 

[psyviperx]

It's alive!!!

The nearly ancient thread, not the ski.

Update:
New battery.
New switch cover. (seemed to stop the random starts mentioned earlier)
Rebuilt jet pump. (new bearings, seals, oil. and wear ring)
Replaced oil in tank
Drained old fuel added about a half gallon of new fuel.
New spark plugs.

Issue:
I hooked everything up and double checked connections. Alright, now lets turn it over before i head to the river to actually crank it. Put the key on push the button and...click.
Check battery voltage, 12v.
Try again...click.

The click seems to be coming from the MPEM. What do i check/do next?

 

[1983]

So you have checked the ground connection point at engine? It is tight, no corrosion, water ingress?

Do you have another battery to try? This one may be low on cranking amperage and just need a trickle charge overnight.

The clicking you are hearing is most likely from the starter relay. I believe on your model it is all housed in the same gray electrical box with MPEM and IGN CDI.



Rob

 

[psyviperx]

I did check the ground. It's good
I do not have another battery at the moment. I have the charger on it now to top it off.
The click is coming from the electrical box.

Water ingress: I pulled the spark plugs, peered into the cylinders and didn't see any moisture when I spun the flywheel by hand.

 

[1983]

How did you check ground? I always ohm out ( check resistance ) of them while isolated from ski. I had one where it appeared good to go. But the good ole fuzzy green corrosion had entered the wire and was causing high resistance in negative ground cable. It was causing similar issues as you.

By water ingress i meant into the wire. On some models it is bolted to engine pretty low, so sometimes while riding if the ski takes on a little water it can be submerged or exposed directly to water.

Most likely battery is your issue, but it could be starter relay as well. Do you know how to jump one safely?

To jump relay:
With good known charged battery installed in ski, leave lanyard key off of ski so it won't start, take a screw driver and touch across both terminals of starter relay. If it clicks and engine doesn't spin over, it is most likely starter or battery issue.
If engine turns over then you know that starter relay is issue. ( by jumping relay manually you are simulating pressing the starter button on handlebars and jumping power from battery side of relay to starter side of relay.


Whatever you do don't jump ski from running vehicle, if and only if you have to ever jump start your ski do it with a extra battery that isn't connected to a car or anything. It will blow MPEM ( computer )


Rob

 

[1983]

Here is example of starter relay in gray electrical box:

[video=youtube;n-Ar8A2Gzx0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-Ar8A2Gzx0[/video]




Rob

 

[psyviperx]

I just visually checked the ground connection and wire. I'll ohm it out when I get back to the house.

The click I get from the electrical box sounds like a relay.
I didn't hear anything coming from the starter.
The battery should be charged when I get home as well.

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[psyviperx]

Just got home.
The ground ohmed out at 0.003 so, good.
The battery is at 80% says the charger.
Just for S&Gs, I held the killswitch down with my finger and hit the start button. I received an ear piercing 'beeeeeep' and the same 'click' as before.
I'm not sure if the beep is good or not, but at least it's different and may enlighten those more experienced than I.

 

[1983]

Ground cable sounds kosher.

Battery needs more than 80%

If you are charging the battery with it installed in ski you may fry the MPEM ( ecm/computer ) get out there turn off charger, disconnect it, and get that battery disconnected from ski asap! Then reconnect battery to charger with battery isolated from ski.

How long was the beep?



Rob

 

[psyviperx]

That kind of negates the purpose of a battery tender doesn't it?
The charger I have hooked up is a trickle charger/tender. Not a high amp charger. That change the situation?

 

[psyviperx]

Didn't have a stop watch on me and was a little startled by it's volume and pitch, but I'd guess a full second or so.

 

[1983]

Well what I was getting at is the MPEM is very sensitive to any kind of alternate voltage other than the ski battery itself. By hitting the start button with charger connected you can fry certain components. It is better off not taking the risk.

My battery comes out after every ride. I then dry it off of any moisture from riding, then put on bench on battery tender.

A buddy of mine had a battery tender on his and battery connected to ski, and it messed up his information gauge when he tried cranking it.

One second beep is good. Probably normal notifying the rider the key has been placed on post and is ready to start.


Still need to have battery isolated from skis electrical system while doing any charging.


Rob

 

[1983]

section 08 subsection 03 on your ski from bombardier manual 95 spi


"+WARNING : Battery BLACK negative cable must always be disconnected first and connected last. Never charge or boost battery while installed in watercraft. Electrolyte or fuel vapors can be present in engine compartment and a spark might ignite them and possibly cause personal injuries.
Proceed as follows :
1. Disconnect the BLACK negative cable first. 2. Disconnectthe RED positive cable last.
3. Remove the vent line from the battery.
4. Remove the holding straps.
5. Withdraw battery from watercraft being careful not
lean it so that electrolyte flows out of vent elbow.
vCAUTION : Should any electrolyte spillage oc- cur, immediately wash off with a solution of baking soda and water t o prevent damage t o water- craft components.
+WARNING :Electrolyte is poisonous, danger- ous and explosive. It contains sulfuric acid and can cause severe burns. Avoid contact with eyes, skin and clothing."



Those notes are regarding explosions from vapors, but there is electoral damage that can occur.


Rob

 

[psyviperx]

Ten 4. Disconnected.

The charger was unplugged when I hit the start switch.

I think I'll add a fuse/switch to the positive lead to create a disconnect. That way I don't have to mess with those annoying rubber straps on the battery every time.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Many stores sell what you need. Once you get another set, put the square part in and then put a wire tie around the opening. This will solve the issue of them falling out. If you can't get replacements, then get a 1/4 inch nut and bolt. If the nut doesn't fit into the battery square opening, grind two of the edges and slip it in. Then put a wire tie on it.

As far as cranking on its own, try to tap and wiggle on things to see if you can make it happen. If you simply can't find the issue, put a toggle switch online of the start button. Flip the toggle to the OFF position when you are not actively riding the ski. This will prevent the ski from cranking as the power will not reach the solenoid even if the MPEM was to power the START button.

I would remove the plugs and slide something into the cylinders to see if they are full of oil. The rank seals are know to leak. This really doesn't hurt anything, but can prevent the engine from turning over when the plugs are in. If there is oil in the cylinders, place a towel over the spark plug holes and crank the engine.

 

[psyviperx]

Update:
Got home from work and the rain had subsided temporarily so I gave the ski another afoot at cranking since the battery was now fully charged.
Put the key on and pushed the button and got another ear piercing beep. Did it again to time the beep, 30 whole seconds, the neighbors can't be pleased by this. Neither am I.

A quick search told me that the '95 SPi only alerts on high temp. Considering that I can't get the darn thing to even turn over, I doubt that's the issue. I unplugged the sensor and tried the start switch again. I was rewarded with the same 'click' from the electrical box and nothing else.
I guess it's time to start testing components in the box.

Ideas? Input?

 

[1983]

What % is battery?

Did you open grey box and jump terminals as I explained and in video of starter relay? Takes 2 mins..


Rob

 

[psyviperx]

Battery was at 100%.

No, I didn't jump it yet. Started raining again and I was still in uniform. I need a garage. I'll test into the box on Sunday or Monday. I work all weekend.