New to me 1998 GTX ltd Concerns

[makaveli07]

Hey everyone

I’m working on my 1998 gtx, previously owned by 1 owner according to the past owner. I have some points of concern

1. As i was going through it, he says engine has never been out yet for some reason while i was looking through it i noticed the engine support has 5 bolts yet only 4 of them have washers, engine does not seem to have been out of the ski as the bolts look new still. Could that washer been missing from factory?

2.The pto boot seems to be a little bit shredded at the end, and clamp is loose so i moved it out of the way do i need to replace clamp and boot or are the clamp and boot reusable?

3. The ski seems to have a stainless steel wear ring ? Arent the 98 gtx ltd stock plastic wear ring? Can i change it for a plastic oem wear ring ?

4. I found a driveshaft bumper in the hull and a random washer… this really concerns me as something might have not been put togethee properly, the washer not so much as it could be from anything but the driveshaft bumper could be either on the pto side or the pump side, is it easy to pull the driveshaft to check ?

im a little too ocd with my stuff like everything to be done properly lol

 

[etemplet]

I just posted on a 2000 GTX 951 I am finishing up on so I have a lot of details fresh in my mind. LOL. I restore the whole ski, to me that is the only way to get these skis reliable. Otherwise you'll find yourself constantly taking things apart trying to figure out what is wrong. Believe me there is a lot wrong with your ski. It's just that few people take the care that is necessary to keep them reliable and happy.

I have not seen the type of water seal on a GTX after 1996. I'm not a guru I just haven't seen one. I just started messing with these 3 years ago.

The engine mount/support you speak about is the PTO side. Lack of a washer might mean the bolt isn't the correct length (a little short). I wouldn't worry if the engine was out or not. I think at 23 years I'd like an engine that was worked on in between.

Part in your hand doesn't mean the correct part isn't in the ski.

Is the wear ring bad? I'd never put a stainless wearing in one of these skis but people consider it an upgrade. If you do replace it with plastic because it is worn, get the Seadoo Genuine Wear Ring. You'll save yourself some trouble.

Don't worry about the PTO boot. I throw that metal crap away and use Zip ties. I still can't figure those clamps out and they are miserable to work with... for me. You'll want some grease in there... waterproof stuff don't pump too much or you'll put thrust load on engine and pump. The procedure is in themanual. BAsically once you see the shaft move toward the rear of the ski.... STOP pumping.

Don't break anything trying to get the Airbox off. Be gentle.
Post some pictures of the ski. Good Luck.

 

[makaveli07]

I actually rebuilt a couple things on this ski, i rebuilt the carbs with a oem mikuni kit from OSD, i rebuilt the rave valves with oem bellows, i changed out all the grey fuel lines, changed the water separator/filter with oem, changed the fuel selector with a wsm one, changed the beeper, changed the hood shock, fixed fuel baffle f1 fuse, only thing left was to do the jet pump and figure out why that washer is missing. That water seal surprisingly is OEM for certain HINs in 1998 according to the parts diagram. I honestly doubt engine has been out as the mount bolts and engine bolts dont seem to have been touched at all, which is why i dont know why that washer is missing. My main concern is the beat stainless wear ring and the driveshaft bumpers actually being there. I kind of want to pull the drive shaft to inspect if the bumpers are on both side pto and the pump

 

[makaveli07]

Okay so i pulled the jet pump in order to rebuild the whole drive shaft came out with it super easily… is this how it is with that style of water seal or old style “carbon ring” ? Also how do i take the drive shaft off of the pump ?

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

pull.

 

[makaveli07]

pull.

Its off just needed a hard tug, good news is there is a bumper on both sides which means the job previously was done properly. Side note how do i know if i need a new impeller ? Mine has knicks on the blades its not super sharp like the one i got for my boat from impros

 

[etemplet]

Put that thing back together and ride it like you stole it !!! Clearance looks good to me from the picture. If it ain't broke don't fix it. PM the Jet pump, change the oil. Good Job !!

 

[makaveli07]

Put that thing back together and ride it like you stole it !!! Clearance looks good to me from the picture. If it ain't broke don't fix it. PM the Jet pump, change the oil. Good Job !!

Im actually not a fan of that wear ring, it came off on its own when i flipped the jet pump a couple times … impeller does not want to come off though… oil was super super dark and those bearings dont sound too good in there scratching noise. Id rather rebuild for peace of mind… if that impeller would come off

 

[etemplet]

Yikes that isn't good. You might just need to toss the whole thing. I got plenty of those.

 

[makaveli07]

Yikes that isn't good. You might just need to toss the whole thing. I got plenty of those.

Toss the whole jet pump ?!? I bought oem bearings from the dealer, shouldn’t it be rebuildable, I’m definitely not a fan of that stainless steel wear ring.. its HEAVY and tbh doesn’t look like its great quality

 

[etemplet]

That whole ring's job is to maintain the proper impeller clearance. Pretty or not it's all about how it fits that counts. Since it fell out it have may have been spinning in the bore. If it did that chances are the bore is now oversize. I wish you good luck in getting the impeller off and hope it works out. If you can't remove the impeller you can't repair it... my thinking.

 

[makaveli07]

Checked into it, lucky was not spinning in the bore. Got the impeller off with a big breaker bar. Going to order a new impeller too. To make sure everything looks good and new in there

 

[POPPS]

Okay, you do not need to replace the prop,,,I have in my time, repaired far far more worse looking props,,,just take a cold metal file and smooth out the edges.,,the wear on there is normal considering its age...just don't file off any material on the wear ring side, or else you will have too much clearance and cavitate forever.
It is not unusual for the dampers to be crushed,,,happens often,,,mostly because the motor during alignment was a bit too far rearward,,,not a big deal at all,

 

[makaveli07]

Okay, you do not need to replace the prop,,,I have in my time, repaired far far more worse looking props,,,just take a cold metal file and smooth out the edges.,,the wear on there is normal considering its age...just don't file off any material on the wear ring side, or else you will have too much clearance and cavitate forever.
It is not unusual for the dampers to be crushed,,,happens often,,,mostly because the motor during alignment was a bit too far rearward,,,not a big deal at all,

I sent for an upgraded impeller skat trak swirl 13-19 so it should be better anyway! this jet pump on the 1998 GTX LTD is actually quite confusing

 

[makaveli07]

does this shaft need replacing or good to reuse? its smooth to the touch, only part that isnt so smooth is the part that threads into the impeller.

 

[makaveli07]

Now onto some points of confusion/ problems im running into on this 98 GTX LTD Pump.

1. Shop Manual shows a Neoprene seal, parts diagram does not... do i need one or should i use the "right stuff" and thats it ?
2. The thrust bearing i ordered OEM from seadoo matching the parts diagram number looks a little different from what i found on the pump... see pics
3.My jet pump and impeller do not match the parts diagram part numbers and no where to be found on the part diagram of any year ... my pump is 271000873 and my impeller is 271000786 these 2 part number are no where to be found on the parts diagram.
3. did i order the correct needle bearings considering my impeller and jet pump part numbers do not match the part diagram ?

 

[etemplet]

I think you're on the right road. You'll know if those are the incorrect parts. Shaft looks good. They are always worn by the lip seals but as long as it is smooth and shallow you're OK.

 

[makaveli07]

I think you're on the right road. You'll know if those are the incorrect parts. Shaft looks good. They are always worn by the lip seals but as long as it is smooth and shallow you're OK.

My main 2 questions is that shaft good to reuse ? Also that the Shop Manual shows a Neoprene seal, parts diagram does not... do i need one or should i use the "right stuff" and thats it ?

 

[mikidymac]

Your pump doesn’t use the neoprene seal, that’s for the smaller pumps.

 

[makaveli07]

Your pump doesn’t use the neoprene seal, that’s for the smaller pumps.

Oh okay so just use the “right stuff” i guess. Its so weird why the shop manual calls for one, but the parts diagram on the 98 doesn’t show one only the 99 shows one. Do i need to replace the shaft in the pics above by any chance ? If so is aftermarket from OSD fine ? Because i cant find oem

 

[etemplet]

You have to use the seal for the jet pump. If you go to the parts list pick item number 7. It is actually the Neoprene Seal part number (293200051) even though it says"Pump Housing". It is a rubber seal. You posted a picture of it so I thought you had it in hand.

 

[makaveli07]

NO..... you have to use the seal for the pump. If you go to the parts list pick item number 7. It is actually the Neoprene Seal part number (293200051) even though it says"Pump Housing". It is a rubber seal. You posted a picture of it so I thought you had it in hand.

I do actually have it on hand. I bought it from the 1999 parts catalog but i dont see it on the 98 and i keep reading mixed things on different forums, some say to use right stuff, others say to use the seal and some used the seal and took it out as it was causing more problems on this specific pump

 

[etemplet]

I have never had a problem using the correct seal and have done several. If people are having trouble they are not doing it correctly. Stick with the manual and the correct parts, you can't go wrong. I never heard of the "right stuff". LOL The seal you have will not need any additional sealant which makes it really easy to replace if/when the time comes. Put a little RTV on the orings and loctite 243 on the pump bolt threads and you're good to go. Good Luck.

 

[mikidymac]

1998 was a strange year for seadoo "limited" skis. On all the diagrams the pump doesn't use a rubber pump seal or the foam ones like on the smaller pumps. I really think seadoo did use silicone to seal the "limited" pumps in 1998.

 

[makaveli07]

1998 was a strange year for seadoo "limited" skis. On all the diagrams the pump doesn't use a rubber pump seal or the foam ones like on the smaller pumps. I really thing seadoo did use silicone to seal the "limited" pumps in 1998.

Yeah it does seem like there is no sign of a neoprene seal when i took it off… now the weird thing is the shop manual calls for one but the parts diagram does not show one lol. I’m still confused if i should install the one i got from the 99 diagram or just use the “right stuff” seal it well and call it a day.


On another forum ive read

“You cannot fit a 1999 or later seal onto a 1998 pump and have it fit into the pump support plate unless you trim off some of the rubber as it is too larger in diameter when stretched over the 1998 pump housing. The 1999 + models of pumps have a recessed housing so the seal can slide onto the pump housing without stretching it out, making the overall diameter of the seal smaller to fit into the pump support plate ring.

A big fat bead of Ultra Black sealant on the pump support plate ring surface, and leaving it to set up for 24 hours will cure any air leaks through the wear ring at the pump support plate..

Bill O'Neal
WCM”

“I DID NOT RECOMMEND USING THE 99 PUMP SEAL ON AN UNMODIFIED 98 BRASS PUMP-- read below...


The seal will fit the pump, but when you install the pump it will hold the pump an additional .180" off the ski causing additional drive line clearances-- stripped impellers and/or drive shafts are in your future if you run your ski for any amount of time.

Take the seal out and use the ultra black per the shop manual or update your pump in design to accept the seal or update the pump to the newer 99+ that is already designed for the seal.

Just did a customer's ski a few weeks ago that was told by a mechanic at a dealer-- use the seal from the 99-- replaced his worn drive shaft, impeller and updated his pump for the wrong info by the mechanic...”

Now my next question is,


1. why does my thrust bearing look different from the one that came off even though i have the right part number ?

2. is an aftermarket impeller shaft okay ? I cant seem to find an oem one.