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New guy with a 2000 Challenger with problems

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This is a problem I was having and I think I have it figured out.
Here is what I did first. First check the check valve in the fuel line that comes from the fuel tank. When I pulled mine out I could blow through it one way and not the other. Thats how they are supposed to work but the one direction I could blow was very hard to blow through. I took the two halves apart and punched the ball spring and collet out of one half and cleaned and put back together but put them together so the ball could move around a little more.(Hope that makes sense)
Second thing I did was check the in tank filter on the bottom of the pick up. Mine was clean. I also changed the fuel filter that mounts directlty to the electric pick up fuel pump. Mine was also clear. I then removed the Vapor fuel tank and it has a filter on the bottom of the pump and mine was clean but there was a whole lot of stuff at the bottom of the canister. I drained the crud out and put it all back together and then rebuilt the pulse fuel pump just for shitsandgigs. I also drained the old fuel out as I wasnt sure how long it had been in there. Tooke her out last niight and she purred along perfectly.
And like I said I also follwed the manuals troubleshooting process and it really is pretty informative. So good luck and if you have any questions feel free to ask. And if you have any other questions you can post them up in my thread. You can also PM me for help. I am more than willing to help out the best that I can. Hope this helps anyone in this situation.
 
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Is this the thread your are talking about????


Anyway..... ok. Dies at high throttle.

Yes, you are on the right track with loss of fuel. You can check flow into the engine, by pulling the plug on the bottom of the vapor tank. If you have a good supply there... then check the pressure on the regulator. (There is a Schrader valve on it)



As far as the last question on the compression.... it's always good to check on a 2-stroke. AND, it's a simple test. Trust me... I've seen more than one engine fail shortly after a rebuild.
 
Okay thanks I posted the process that I went through on THIS thread and will not thread jack anyone elses threads. Sorry to the MODS
 
Okay thanks I posted the process that I went through on THIS thread and will not thread jack anyone elses threads. Sorry to the MODS

A question within an existing thread is not a big deal, especially when it is relative to the thread. The issue with "thread jacking" is it gets confusing. People answer questions but the OP does not know if it was meant for them and what not. Very easy to get lost in the jumble of things.

And for those that are trying to help, they get lost too as they are reading and trying to figure out who is asking/answering what.

No issues, just gets hard to follow..
 
Okay so I will post this here instead of starting a new thread. Hope this is correct. So had the boat out last weekend and fixed the stalling issue. I still had a little leak around where the pump meets the powerhead. And after cruising for about 5 minutes the steady solid beep would come on. Not fully confident about what the beep was from so I shut it down and let it cool off. After sitting for 5 minutes I started it back up and just idled for a while and the buzzer came back on. So I take the boat home replace the gaskets from the head to the pump and replace the port side temp sensor as I have no idea when it was replaced last or if that would set off the alarm and figured I will tackle my no fuel gauge issue. Take the fuel float out and the magnets are all still intact. So I test the gauge by jumping the two wires that go to the gauge and the gauge reads full so I know the gauge works. So I plug in the float assembly and put the float inside the assembly and as soon as it passes by the sensor the warning buzzer goes off as a solid tone. So does the buzzer go off when its low on fuel also? The gauge still does not work though.
So I guess my real question is what are the different tones for the buzzer I have heard that a solid tone means overheating, low oil level, and now it seems that it goes off when the fuel level is low. Just trying to decipher what the solid tone means.
 
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