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New battery discharged after use every time. HELP!
- Thread starter Gunvm
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Gunvm
New Member
LOL
hahah it was getting a full charged... I make the second test and in both engines got the same results between 21 - 22 very similar to the other test
BMANN06
Well-Known Member
Okay all that test does is test the Magneto, wow i'm really surprised your getting that voltage through those conductors. They almost look like they've been on fire. Anyways, now you need to find out if the rectifier is toast. You need to swith the multimeter to DC volts, and put your meter across the red and black wires of the Recitifier output. This test will also need the engines running. Let me know and we'll be able to see if your charging system is the problem or not.
Gunvm
New Member
BMANN06
Well-Known Member
Can put your meter in DC Volts ...
This is your rectifier/regulator, it has the 3 yellow wires coming "IN" from Magneto and 1 RED 1 BLACK "OUT" that goes to battery. So put you meter leads across the red and black wires from the Rectifier output with engines running. As in disconnect the connector that has the red/black wires and put your meter leads across the ones that come down from rectifier. See Pic.
Post back results from each engine, just remember engines need to be running. You should see 14V DC give or take from the output of each rectifier.
This is your rectifier/regulator, it has the 3 yellow wires coming "IN" from Magneto and 1 RED 1 BLACK "OUT" that goes to battery. So put you meter leads across the red and black wires from the Rectifier output with engines running. As in disconnect the connector that has the red/black wires and put your meter leads across the ones that come down from rectifier. See Pic.
Post back results from each engine, just remember engines need to be running. You should see 14V DC give or take from the output of each rectifier.
Gunvm
New Member
When i took the pics the bat was getting chargee.. Today when i make the tests i put were it belongs the bat.. Tomorrow i will send the resutls of the rectifier.
BMANN06
Well-Known Member
Ahh okay, I thought you were just thinking that since you were seeing 20+V AC off the magnetos you thought it was charging. Good to hear, maybe just reseating some connectors solved it. You really do want to fix up the connector/conductors that are burnt though. They will lead to a constant headache moving forward.
Cheers!!
Cheers!!
Gunvm
New Member
Gunvm
New Member
I think im getting confused....
When i sent u the pics, the bat wasnt there cuz it was discharged, so i charged it in my house.. Today i install again the bat so i can make the tests with the magneto wires test. And the resutls were in every pin 21 to 22 ac when i make the 3 phase..
When i sent u the pics, the bat wasnt there cuz it was discharged, so i charged it in my house.. Today i install again the bat so i can make the tests with the magneto wires test. And the resutls were in every pin 21 to 22 ac when i make the 3 phase..
Gunvm
New Member
Can put your meter in DC Volts ...
This is your rectifier/regulator, it has the 3 yellow wires coming "IN" from Magneto and 1 RED 1 BLACK "OUT" that goes to battery. So put you meter leads across the red and black wires from the Rectifier output with engines running. As in disconnect the connector that has the red/black wires and put your meter leads across the ones that come down from rectifier. See Pic.
Post back results from each engine, just remember engines need to be running. You should see 14V DC give or take from the output of each rectifier.
Ok... What i understand here when i will check the rectifier red n black wires... First i have to check with engine running what part fisrt? Cuz when i disconnect them it will be the part that comes from the bat and the other part of the rectifier?
I have to check them both or how?
BMANN06
Well-Known Member
Sorry for confusion.
Do the rectifier output test. (Engines need to be running). Make sure you meter is in DC Volts when testing across the RED & Black Rectifier output wires. Also make sure that you have the yellow wire connectors hooked back up. Again, the magneto generates AC Current this AC current travels to the Rectifier over the 3 yellow wires. The rectifier turns AC current into DC current and outputs it to the battery over the red & black wires. This makin sense?
Do the rectifier output test. (Engines need to be running). Make sure you meter is in DC Volts when testing across the RED & Black Rectifier output wires. Also make sure that you have the yellow wire connectors hooked back up. Again, the magneto generates AC Current this AC current travels to the Rectifier over the 3 yellow wires. The rectifier turns AC current into DC current and outputs it to the battery over the red & black wires. This makin sense?
Gunvm
New Member
Yes it does make sense.. So later today i will make that test n i hope putting the results by afternoon.
By the way, the test of the magneto is prove that its working well? I want to discart bad magnetos
BMANN06
Well-Known Member
Yes count your lucky starts your magnetos are okay, they are quite a bit of work to change. Since they are outputing 20-23VAC at idle that is what I've observed the output of my magnetos at idle on my boat. Just so were clear you also did the magneto test (three yellow wire) ac test at the input of the rectifier right? Reason I'm so persistant on this is in the pics you sent me the yellow wires look to be the culprit. See how burnt they are in your pic? This will act as a resistor and drop the (AC) voltage to the input of the rectifier. Anyways, do the rectifier DC volts ouput test post back.
Gunvm
New Member
Ok.. Update...
I make the test of the rectifiers, but i think i made it wrong..
On every engine runin i test both red n black wires but just unolug the terminal that goes to the bat and the result was 0.
I did not test the red n black wires that come from the rectifier.. I think it was a wrong test???
I make the test of the rectifiers, but i think i made it wrong..
On every engine runin i test both red n black wires but just unolug the terminal that goes to the bat and the result was 0.
I did not test the red n black wires that come from the rectifier.. I think it was a wrong test???
BMANN06
Well-Known Member
Okay, I wanted you to test the Red & Black wires coming from Rectifier with engines running so we'll need you to do that test. If your battery isn't installed it makes sense that you would see 0V from the test you did. If you have your battery hooked back up, you should see 12V give or take. If your battery is hooked up, then you are missing connections to the battery (which could be also be the cause of your system not charging)....
Gunvm
New Member
Let me see if i understand u..
I test the red n black cables coming from the rectifier, i have to disconnect both parts( the wires that come from rectifier and the wire that i think they go to the bat) and just test the ones that comes from the rectifier with the engine running? Is that correct?
Gunvm
New Member
Ok i made ghe rectifer red n black wires test with engines running...
left engine runnin in neutral marks 0.20 starting and then goin up to 0.61, i did not accelerate here.
Right engine running in neutral marks 0.20 starting variation to 0.19 & 0.21, in this engine i accelerate and marked bout 0.40
I did not see never 13.5 or 14 as u said, and i use the multimeter in volts at 20
BMANN06
Well-Known Member
K, could either be the burnt and corroded wires or your rectifiers. I would start with the yellow wires (ones right by ECU), cut the connector off, and cut the yellow wires back so all the burnt sheathing is cut off (they give you slack). Crimp on some new pins a new connector and hook it all back up and retest the output of the rectifier. If after getting the burnt wires fixed up and you still see low to no voltage on the output of rectifier (red & black) time to order up new rectifiers.
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