My 2004 Speedster 200 Project

[RFoster130]

I am pretty sure the gauge was made by AutoMeter. Pretty common company. I will send a picture when I get back from vacation. The tapping in the positive under the dash is a good idea. Just grab one that is on all the time when main switch is on like the radio or lights....sounds like you know this already (but others reading may not).

That is an awesome garage to keep it in. I wish I had one that size so I didnt have to lower it.

If you ever wanted to get under the console where the radio is, open the glove box and remove the screws that hold it together (Phillips) and then remove the front left side cup holder and reach in with a -I think- 10mm long-socket wrench and unbolt. The nut comes off so don't drop it. The nut and bolt is located out of site but it is approximately 3-4" behind where the point of the console meets the hull. It was a little difficult to reach with my forearms and size of cup holder. But once you remove this, there is TONS of wasted room. Hence a battery and amp installed there for me.

I wondered how to get to that extra space under the console. I dont get why they put that stupid little tray on top under the lid. It should have been open space like the other side, thats how it was on my 98. The 15 ft garage door is nice where i store it, but its also 150 bucks a month. Id love to find somewhere cheaper but no luck yet.

 

[iukaman]

OK, I have attached photos of the volt meter and the Bimini top.

The bimini top is another intersting thing. It tucks up to the speakers under the tower. To unfold, i typically just take one side out of the mount (attached to the side of the tower) and then unfold. Then once it is unfolded, i put it back into the mount. It is nice to have it, a little low (more of a sporty look to it. So you really have to bend over to walk out of it from the back.

I am hoping this helps!

 

[RFoster130]

Well, I had the boat out for 3 days last weekend. Still got some bugs to work out. Ran fine the first day and was a lot of fun. Left it docked on the water. Next day we loaded up and headed out. Boat would move, would only do about 10 mph. With both tachs not working, im not sure of the RPMS's. Seemed like a cavitation issue. I thought maybe it was something stuck in the intakes since it sat overnight docked and there was a lot of crud in the water. Left it sit for the day docked again. Next morning, pulled the boat out of the water. My first clue to the problem should have been my Tahoe spun the wheels a bit pulling it up the ramp (on dry concrete). This boat inst quite that heavy, Got to the top of the loading area and opened the ski compartment to stuff the tube in. The compartment was full of water. Then lifted the engine cover to see about a foot of water in the engine compartment. Did a little troubleshooting and found Bilge pump fuse blown. Replaced it and turned it on and pulled the plug out. Boat sat there with the pump on and the hull draining out the plug for 30 minutes. I turned the pump off, covered the boat and headed for home. Stopped to get gas before getting on the highway...it had been an hour and the boat still had water draining. Im guessing there was at least 100-200 gallons of water. That extra weight is why the boat didnt wanna run.

The pump i think blew the auto fuse because it had some crud stop it up. I knew it had issues before, Ive been cleaning the engine compartment periodically. Previous owner let it sit outside opened up and it had tons of leaves and debris in there. IM gonna clean it out again and replace the fuse again. Until i know its 100% i wont leave the boat docked overnight. But now I gotta figure out where the water is getting in. Im gonna try to get the boat on the water and open the engine compartment and see what I can find. I know these boats will allow some water in and under normal circumstances, the pump takes care of it. But in my opinion, it was way too much water for 24 hours.

Even after I fix this issue, im still not 100% sold on the 200. I miss my little boat. This thing doesnt have near the handling and the porposing is horrendous.

 

[speedster32940]

Bummer on the complications... Just had an amazing 3 days of fun on Lake George in NY with my 200. Ran like a champ & never gave any problems at all. Must have covered 70 miles+ around the lake. Have to say that it had decent fuel economy too (for a boat, that is)! You'll eventually get things figured out & knowing your precise troubleshooting skills, you will have the boat on the right track in no time. Best of luck to you! The porposing can be problem, but I have found that altering my speed or heading by 20% or so when it happens can interrupt it enough to keep it from being a problem. Not worth spending the money on trim tabs, I don't think....

 

[BMANN06]

Yah that is a ton of water, I leave my 200 tied to the dock all summer. I take it out about once every two weeks for a hull cleaning. Obviously check your carbon ring, the "O" ring on the drain plug and also the "O" ring on the speedo paddle wheel. I've heard alot of people complain about the porposing I have experienced it once or twice but I just hammer the throttle and it sorts it out, or sometimes I just need to move my passengers around to evenly distribue the weight.

 

[RFoster130]

The O ring on the plug was shot...a chunk of it was missing. I ordered a new one...ya think it would let that much water in? Im gonna check the carbon ring by measuring it like the shop manual says, but it looks good glancing at it. The porposing was mostly when i was kinda intoxicated and let a buddy drive for a bit...i usually just let off it a little and it cures it. Im not giving up on it yet..lol

 

[pwgsx]

Nice work man. Funny thing is I just called that guy last night bc I saw his ad online still but obviously its sold. Small world. Glad to see all the work your doing to it, it sure makes me want to find one even more. How are you liking the 155's ? I think I will go that route as well bc I don't want to deal with the superchargers. I have a rxp and the rebuilds on it add up.

Did you find the leak?

 

[RFoster130]

I am happy with the 310. Before this, i had the 16 footer with the 220 HP...Performance wise this is pretty close. It does mid 50's. It just isnt nearly as nimble as the smaller boat. It is a lot of fun though. I havent even messed with the water issue yet. I got a new drain plug for it, just havent had time to take it back out. Im honestly not even too worried about the water getting in now that the bilge pump is working. I just wont leave it docked overnight until i figure it out.

 

[RFoster130]

Just thought I would post an update. Ive had the boat out 2 more times and now that im getting use to it, im very happy. At first it didnt feel as fast or agile as the smaller 98 did. Ive had it right around 52 on GPS, so im happy with that. Its not exactly as agile as the 98, but jumping waves, ive still had the entire boat up out of the water. Its a lot of fun. The porposing can be pretty rough on choppy water, but I just back the throttle down a bit. On smooth water, it really flies. I got a few small things to tweak still, but overall im very happy.

The new drain plug on the bilge helped the water problem a bit. Im still getting water in the hull. The auto feature on the pump is working again, so its not a big deal, but I plan on looking at the carbon seals good soon. Im suspecting that is the issue.

 

[pwgsx]

From my reading it could even be the o rings on the shaft that sit in the floating ring where the carbon seal is. I added the parts up to rebuild both engines and its about $240 plus if you buy the tool to help remove the C clip.

Where or how did you get the auto function to work again on the bilge pump. I don't think mine works only when I use the switch.

 

[JoeB14]

Where or how did you get the auto function to work again on the bilge pump. I don't think mine works only when I use the switch.

I had this problem on my Utopia, and fixed it by replacing the 1 amp fuse. It is an inline fuse, and the wire is connected to the main battery (rotary) switch.

 

[RFoster130]

From my reading it could even be the o rings on the shaft that sit in the floating ring where the carbon seal is. I added the parts up to rebuild both engines and its about $240 plus if you buy the tool to help remove the C clip.

Where or how did you get the auto function to work again on the bilge pump. I don't think mine works only when I use the switch.

Behind the battery switch is a separate fuse. Its in a black fuse holder on one of the red wires. It has a 3amp fuse in it i think. Mine was blown. I had a lot of leaves and other debris in the engine compartment from the previous owner being a moron. It kept clogging the pump and blowing fuses. Ive got most of it cleaned out now i think.

 

[cycleguy88]

Both of my bar and new boats have had water in the hull after every trip. Just a seadoo thing

 

[RFoster130]

Both of my bar and new boats have had water in the hull after every trip. Just a seadoo thing

This is my 2nd sea doo boat...so i totally understand that. What i am talking about is totally not normal. 24 hours in the water almost sunk it. :lol:

 

[cycleguy88]

Oh. Ok got ya.

 

[pwgsx]

I'll take a look while I am installing a new blower. Mine was full of crap too, I guess he just left the top open. Yea the amount of water coming in I don't think is normal at all, a little I understand but mine drained for 2 mins on the ramp. I think its our carbon seals/ o rings.

 

[pwgsx]

Got a new one ordered along with a new spring clip for the release since i broke it. Total of $15 for oem parts on ebay.



Also got a nice pic of my OEM hatch strut. The part number comes right up on SPD's site. Just wanna make sure to have the info here for any future person who searches for an answer.






2004 Sea Doo Speedster Rear Hatch Strut

http://www.spdhardware.com/catalog/...4413&cid=d992bffa-40ff-417f-85f1-28e30662679d

Not bad, $$18 compared to $70 from BRP. SPD does have a minimum order of $30 though. So i figure ill replace both and keep the other one as a spare.

Do you have the front hatch and upper sunpad flaps strut part #'s as well? Mine are so rusted I cant read anything. They still work but the rust is so bad I think they will rust through soon.

 

[RFoster130]

Im gonna try to get the boat out this fri..Prolly gonna be the last time this year. If i do, ill see if i can get the numbers. I'll also get the windscreen deflector for ya.

 

[pwgsx]

Sweet thanks

 

[mkane]

Wow!! Nice job so far!! I just read your thread and it's very helpful how your documenting your project. I just bought a 2005 Speedster 200 370hp and I have alot to learn!! Keep up the good work...looks awesome!
Mike

 

[RFoster130]

Wow!! Nice job so far!! I just read your thread and it's very helpful how your documenting your project. I just bought a 2005 Speedster 200 370hp and I have alot to learn!! Keep up the good work...looks awesome!
Mike

Thanks!!! It was a lot of work for a few weeks...I got a few small projects to get done over the winter. I only got it out 3 times...Im hoping to use it more next year. Kids will be 2 and 4 next month....so we are finally getting to the age they will have fun on it too.

 

[mkane]

Yeah they will love it for years to come! I came from years jet skiing and my kids love the boat so much more!! I had a Speedster 160 over the summer and while it was a fast and fun, this 200 has much more room and my wife likes this alot more. Always good when everyone likes it!! I'm trying to get it out one more time but it's getting cold here so the season may be done. I'll stay tuned to your build and I'm already looking for some add-ons like stereo upgrade, Tower and of course I have to send the Superchargers out to get rebuilt....the list will go on & on!!!

Mike

 

[raider352]

outstanding! someday I'll get one of those on cl :thumbsup:

 

[pwgsx]

Hey, how do those subs sound in that open space behind? I was looking at the polks , clarion or kickers. I was worried about the space behind but it looks like there is plenty of room to even fit a sub that's 5.5 inches deep.

 

[RFoster130]

Hey, how do those subs sound in that open space behind? I was looking at the polks , clarion or kickers. I was worried about the space behind but it looks like there is plenty of room to even fit a sub that's 5.5 inches deep.

They rock..very loud and very deep bass. The hull of the boat is basically a big enclosure for them. I went with the Po;l UM series for everything, and have been very happy. They have plenty of depth for mounting there. I forget the actual space, but as you can see the polks fit fine. I had kicker in my last boat and they sounded good to, but i think i like these polk's more.