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Motor was LITERALLY just dropped in.... Was the previous owner a moron, or no?

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96spxpos

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:redface:
Ok,
well, hung up the ski AGAIN today by the davit, after patching two rivet holes on the deck, b/c i got back to the ski again today, was takin on water again at the boat ramp...
turns out, it was the left bailer tube (the little stick in the back of the jet nozzle) or at least i think.. LOOK AT PIC, let me know if this is what you think... it was hanging up on the davit, and was about 5 feet up in the air while i was looking at it through the canal..

When i took it down, i felt the left tube,the one where i think the leak was coming from, and it was stickin out a tiny bit further than the right one, so i cleared both tubes of any obstructions, and tapped the left one in enough to line up with the right one..

so i'm hoping that took care of the problem..

But, while on the davit, i grabbed the tuner pipe, and the ENTIRE MOTOR literally wiggled in all directions.. pics arent too clear, but all four motor mounts were just floating...the rubber donuts were still connected to the engine brackets, but they werent screwed into the hull....the entire motor was literally staying in place from the driveshaft, the only thing holding it..

so, i dont know too much about these motor mounts, are the bolts that are going thru the middle of the black donuts supposed to screw into those plates in the hull, or are the donuts just supposed to "rest" on the hull?

cuz i then took the ski out for five min, started bogging, took it back in, and i guess from the motor being "moved" while in the air, it misaligned the connection the the water box and tuner pipe, making a leak, AS WELL AS misaligning the driveshaft, making water pour in from the accordion boot where the carbon ring is...

So, did the previous owner who did this half ass ski rebuild just not bolt the motor to the hull, or are these just supposed to "rest"?

because when i stuck my fingers under all four motor mounts, the bolts that go thru the middle of the donuts didnt even feel long enough where they could even screw into those brackets on the hull body...

let me know what you think guys...

it's just crazy how i've owned this thing for two months and only had about 4 full rides without having to fix something EVERY Single TIME i take it out..

Thanks for all your help...hoping to fix this thing once and for all...
 

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Holy cow batman you have a disaster...

If it were me I would start all over again from scratch.
Give it the attention it needs to be reliable.
Do you have a manual? If not you need one.

The mounts, as long as the rubber is stuck to base then your good. Go to home depot/lowes and find metric drawers. Find a 30mm #8 1.25 pitch thread with flat washer and loctite.

I would also remove pump and service pump and wear ring. It will cost you ~150 bucks with shipping if you send it to DrHonda to do. All you do is add new gear oil to the cone when you get it and reinstall with new neoprene seal.

Then you know pump>engine>electronics is :cheers:
and it will be reliable b/c you will now every inch of that ski.....

I just finished two. Have a thread a few posts back "There're Alive".
 
The motor mounts bolt to the floor, shimmed underneith from the factory. My guess is they are still bolted down but the rubber tore off. This explains to us why the carbone ring leaked, the motor was way out of alignment and moveing-leaking. Buy four motor mounts and use a special engine alignment tool to re-align the drive. You have to pull the jetpump to use the tool, and buy a neoprene seal and some "black stuff" sealant to reseal the thee thru hull long pipes on jetpump.
Its time you re-read your Shop Manual, its pictoralized and a cave-man can do it, with some Metric Sockets.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=34&B=8

http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/Seadoo_OEM/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=34&B=16
http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/Seadoo_OEM/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=34&B=22

The key to success is fogging and regular maintenance.

Bills86e
 
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That sux bro...I have good used motor mounts and the neoprene seal in stock.

Nows the time to do everything right...rebuild the carbs, change out the fuel lines, etc....a restoration.
 
im thinking you're right..

Minn,
I just cleaned the carbs a few weeks ago, and turns out, the gaskets got all torn apart, so i cleaned both mounting surfaces so they were flush, and then reinstalled them WITHOUT the gaskets for the time being...
can i LOSE perfomance b/c of potential air leaks? (p.s., i have the gaskets coming in the mail)..

Ocod,
what would a 30mm #8 1.25 pitch thread with a flatwasher and loctite do? not following what i would do with it?

Bill,
through all the B.S. I've went thru with this PWC so far, I DO FOG the motor EVERY SINGLE TIME i use it; due to all the issues/age/condition, i figured its better to be safe then sorry..
and i do have the shop manual, but its .PDF style online...did they skimp on the online version, meaning are there certain sections that aren't there, that ARE there in the paper copy? Even as far as the D.E.S.S. and buzzer section, the online manual had VERY LITTLE information on these topics, if any...

and I looked at the other hull that i have at home, and where the four motor mounts are, (there's no engine, i have it outside the ski) theres just 4 plates with two bolts in each...
So from the factory,the black donut, the middle screw, and the plate on the hull with the two bolts in it ARE ALL ONE PIECE?

Guys I really appreciate it:thumbsup:

It's funny how these PWC's really are a whole different animal than a dirt or jap bike....
 
oh, and i forgot, so ARE those two bailer tubes the ONLY place where that leak from the pic would be coming from? or are there other areas that can potentially leak thru that pump area?

and by the way, i'm going to get some money up this week or next to FINALLY get a cart, or possibly even a cheap trailer for the time being so i can ACTUALLY service and work on this thing like a normal person, as opposed to hanging it up on davits, bending over breakin my back while its on the boat ramp, or even servicing it while in the canal with the back end hanging off the boat ramp..(pathetic)..(actually, dropped a screw driver yesterday and had to dive 16 feet a few times to find it)..

So hopefully my ignorant questions will lessen once i can ACTUALLY have full access to the ENTIRE ski.....

Once again, thanks for the wealth of knowledge guys....
 
and bill,
Thanks for the links/schematics;
in the pic, the "motor mount" itself is covered by the actual wording of "online microfiche" from the site, but it does look like the motor mounts come all in one piece...
 
oh, and i forgot, so ARE those two bailer tubes the ONLY place where that leak from the pic would be coming from? or are there other areas that can potentially leak thru that pump area?

Unless your bailer lines are not tied up inside the hull, the bailers will not leak with a ski just sitting in the water, regardless of the state of the siphon tubes. Your tubes were both there and just because one was out a little further than the other is not really a problem.

So, from inside the hull, the bailer hoses will run to the rear of the ski, get tied up at the top of the hull, then run back down to the pump. Tying them up high insures that they sit higher than the water line and thus prevent water from coming into the ski when just sitting.

You really need to give up on running this machine right now and restore it before you make things much worse.
 
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yes the motor mounts are one piece.

You can make a simple stand out of 2/4s...

There are 3 tubes coming from the pump...they usually get sealed with RTV when installed.

You could also have water coming thru the carbone seal, the water outlet above the pump (orings rot) or the exhaust outlet. (gets loose, oring rot)

LOL wait...thinking back on your 3 threads....the VTS was never mentioned. Have you replaced the VTS boot lately?? Usually a MAJOR leakpoint. They rot about every 3-5 years.
 
LOL no crap...

Heres a beautiful repair job I found on a parts machine a few months back....96SPX none the less! Just keep adding glue till she quits leaking...lol

 
oh, and i forgot, so ARE those two bailer tubes the ONLY place where that leak from the pic would be coming from? or are there other areas that can potentially leak thru that pump area?

and by the way, i'm going to get some money up this week or next to FINALLY get a cart, or possibly even a cheap trailer for the time being so i can ACTUALLY service and work on this thing like a normal person, as opposed to hanging it up on davits, bending over breakin my back while its on the boat ramp, or even servicing it while in the canal with the back end hanging off the boat ramp..(pathetic)..(actually, dropped a screw driver yesterday and had to dive 16 feet a few times to find it)..

So hopefully my ignorant questions will lessen once i can ACTUALLY have full access to the ENTIRE ski.....

Once again, thanks for the wealth of knowledge guys....

I have on...
the bolts are needed to secure engine plate to the mounts since they were missing :)
 
ocod,
my girl up in sarasota/bradenton just found a cheap trailer on craiglist for $75, so I'm gonna check it out this weekend when i head up there....but i do pass you/miami on the way up or down, how much for yours?
And i looked back on Bills post, and yea, none of the bolts were missing for the motor mounts, just looks like the rubber tore off from all four motor mounts..(the two black braces the motor sits on has the black donuts still attached to them with the bolt in the middle, and the motor can be shifted left, right, sideways, etc..)
Minne,
it does leak thru the carbon seal for now cuz the engine is misaligned...
so, how much for those motor mounts?
DJRED and Minn,
yea, she's gonna take a deep sleep/hibernation for now...
the bailer tubes are ziptied all the way up to the top of the hull...
and BEFORE i found the broken motor mounts/the leak coming from the back of the pump, i checked the VTS boot, removed it, water tested it for leaks, and it seemed all good to go...(funny, funny pic by the way)..
my vts doesn't work...has anyone ever removed the entire system?
 
ocod,
my girl up in sarasota/bradenton just found a cheap trailer on craiglist for $75, so I'm gonna check it out this weekend when i head up there....but i do pass you/miami on the way up or down, how much for yours?
And i looked back on Bills post, and yea, none of the bolts were missing for the motor mounts, just looks like the rubber tore off from all four motor mounts..(the two black braces the motor sits on has the black donuts still attached to them with the bolt in the middle, and the motor can be shifted left, right, sideways, etc..)
Minne,
it does leak thru the carbon seal for now cuz the engine is misaligned...
so, how much for those motor mounts?
DJRED and Minn,
yea, she's gonna take a deep sleep/hibernation for now...
the bailer tubes are ziptied all the way up to the top of the hull...
and BEFORE i found the broken motor mounts/the leak coming from the back of the pump, i checked the VTS boot, removed it, water tested it for leaks, and it seemed all good to go...(funny, funny pic by the way)..
my vts doesn't work...has anyone ever removed the entire system?

came that way and looks like picture :)
lmk what you find for 75 bucks?? was trying to get ~200 for mine(ez loader) but doubt it since its the off season soon.
Not many on craigslist.
I got all four for 25 bucks on ebay
 
aright, heading up there thurs night, might check it out on Friday, and I'll post here to let you know what it looks/looked like, and if i need to swing by you or not...
and as far as the motor mounts, i'll see what minne's got, and I'll check EBAY...im hoping yours were NEW?
Did you use the alignment tool when installing your motor?
 
negative alignement tool but took my time making sure driveline was sliding in/out with restriciton
 
just lined up that way.
once engine bolted to plate its a matter of having holes linded up to mounts and centering.
 
yea, im thinking if i just watch where the shims were kept in place, and mount it EXACTLY how it was, and then just make sure i have no leaks coming from the driveshaft at all rpm's, then i'll be good..

Here's the crazy thing...im thinking one or two of the motor mounts were STILL connected the first time i hung the ski in the air, cuz the second time i did it when i noticed the mounts were broke, as soon as the ski was back down, EVERY time i revved the motor, even a little bit, the entire motor would jump to the left side and make water leak in...
 
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