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mistery plug fouling

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teckytec

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The problem I am having is that I am fouling the PTO plug side, After I insert new plugs it will run fine for 15 to 20 minutes, then the plug will get loaded which appears to be excess oil residue. I take off the head cover and the inside of the fouled plug side is loaded pretty heavy with oils & gunk. I have taken out the oil pump and went to premix. That did not fix the problem. I have also repaired carbs and found nothing out of the ordinary in the filters etc. If anyone has had this problem let me know or if you have any ideas
Thanks
Teckytec
 
I would do a compression test to see what is going on internally.
Here is some information on doing a compression test properly.
You'll need a compression tester. Go to Auto Zone. I think they sell for like $25.00. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression guage, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem.
I hope this helps you.

Karl
 
plug fouling

Sorry I forgot to mention that both cylinders have good compression 135 to 140 roughly. I dont think the inner seal could be the problem if I am running premix. I coould be wrong but wouldnt think so.
Thanks for the reply
Tecktec
 
I guess I should also mention that I took my unit into an authorized seadoo dealer to have them check it out, $375.00 later they told me nothing was wrong with it. That is when I changed to premix thinking that this would solve my problem.
 
inner seals...

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=43&B=3

Have alook at diagram. Middle of case is where the the RV assy sits, on bothsides of it, theres the "grooves" for the metal seal to sit in. If those are bad, the "oil" that supplies the RV assy, will leak past those(1 on ea. side) and make its way to the journal area of casing.
Even w/ premix'n gas, you should still have the resivoir bottle hooked up, with oil supply lines to the RV assy, or the 2-lines looked together, keep'n oil in that cavity(rv assy)...
 
Your oil is most likely coming from a leaking internal crank seal. This seal is the same as the external seals in design and are rubber, not metal as previously mentioned, and will eventually wear out and begin to leak. The only other possibility is a leaking RV shaft seal but I'd suspect the crank seal first.
 
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