That gear really looks bad... I started this thread and have two very strong summers on the motor rebuild... Sounds like you bled the oil pump.. Did you remove the little screw until oil comes out? I marked my oil tank with a sharpie and did the premix with the fuel for a full tank break-in. This way by the time you are just running the oil pump mix, you have the confidence the pump is working... Good luck... The motor rebuild looks good...
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Mercury 240EFI M2 Full Rebuild Pics
- Thread starter ddeem
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koby6587
Member
Yeah I'm doing the premix and everything I have the manual but before the motor went bad I thought I was changing a full throttle stop but I actually changed the timing Max advancement screw so I gotta try to make sure that it is perfect I didn't know if there might be like a stock setting like 5 turns out from the stop?.. so I'm going to read up on that as much and if anyone knows anymore info on that I wouldent mind haring thanks its number 2 on diagram http://www.boats.net/parts/search/M...ttle Lever - Throttle Cam Assembly/parts.html
koby6587
Member
I ended up bringing it to a good mercury shop local to my area.. I had them do the timing on it for the max setting they said it was close they set it to 23 degrees or something of that sort.. but ive got it out on the lake its crazy having 80 82 degree weather up here in central new york finger lakes region in middle of march and its running good so far!!!!!!!!!!
Great thread! So the replacement oil pump drive gear on the crank you got is from mercury? I saw in their parts break down the have a design l and a design ll. the design ll is the one you put in your motor made from the better material? I'm going to be rebuilding a 240 soon and am trying to decide if I can trust the new material this gear is made from or go with the electronic oil inj.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
If it's new material... and an OEM part... then they changed it because they had problems while engines were under warranty. Personally... I'd trust it. Think about it this way... we are getting gear failure reports now... and they are +10 year old engines. That's a long time. Yes... the $40 part kills a good engine... but it's not like they are just randomly failing.
Now... if the new material is being seen, because it's an "Aftermarket" part... then I wouldn't touch it.
Regardless... pre-mixing a +50 gallon tank... like on my Islandia... is not an easy thing to do.
For the guy who was talking about the rod though the block...
Those are good points. If the engine is having bad enough issues to stop... then it should never be restarted until things are checked. With that said... my new project boat has a hole from a thrown rod. I will be welding it up, and re-machining it. I agree that the parts are expensive, and hard to find... but there are a lot of shops that specialize in rebuilding broken aluminum engine parts. (Millennium is one of them)
http://www.mt-llc.com/
Now... if the new material is being seen, because it's an "Aftermarket" part... then I wouldn't touch it.
Regardless... pre-mixing a +50 gallon tank... like on my Islandia... is not an easy thing to do.
For the guy who was talking about the rod though the block...
Those are good points. If the engine is having bad enough issues to stop... then it should never be restarted until things are checked. With that said... my new project boat has a hole from a thrown rod. I will be welding it up, and re-machining it. I agree that the parts are expensive, and hard to find... but there are a lot of shops that specialize in rebuilding broken aluminum engine parts. (Millennium is one of them)
http://www.mt-llc.com/
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Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Hi Guys,
I wanted to bring this on on this thread... both of the gear failures are from the "Original" style gear. To me, it just looks like regular old plastic.
I was looking over the new parts for my rebuild... that the new style gear (p/n 43-14513A09) looks to be made out of a glass filled nylon. I would imagine that with a little oil on it... it will outlive the original.
Also... in the original gear, the hole to tighten the screws is directly in the middle of one of the gear teeth. Yes, it's not on center... but the tooth is interrupted. On the new gear... the hole is in a valley, and the gear teeth are continuous. (better design)
I'll post up a pic of the 2 gears later.
I wanted to bring this on on this thread... both of the gear failures are from the "Original" style gear. To me, it just looks like regular old plastic.
I was looking over the new parts for my rebuild... that the new style gear (p/n 43-14513A09) looks to be made out of a glass filled nylon. I would imagine that with a little oil on it... it will outlive the original.
Also... in the original gear, the hole to tighten the screws is directly in the middle of one of the gear teeth. Yes, it's not on center... but the tooth is interrupted. On the new gear... the hole is in a valley, and the gear teeth are continuous. (better design)
I'll post up a pic of the 2 gears later.
185utopia210
New Member
Hello all. Reading about all the failures of the oil injection worm gear, has us wondering about the longevity of our 2002 boat with a 2001 engine. Anyway, I hate the bother of premix, and don't want to sell the boat to upgrade as this is our first season with it and love it.
I am seriously considering replacing the worm gear this winter and will pull the engine to do if I have to.
1. is pulling the mtr necessary?
2. what else should be done while apart(compression was checked and is well within spec)?
I am seriously considering replacing the worm gear this winter and will pull the engine to do if I have to.
1. is pulling the mtr necessary?
2. what else should be done while apart(compression was checked and is well within spec)?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
1) Yes... you will have to pull the motor since you have to split the case. The gear that gives out is on the crankshaft.
My gear was perfect. I had to look very close to see even a small amount of wear. So... the easiest thing to do is to remove the oil pump, and pull the pump shaft. Then... you can use a bore scope, and look in at the crank gear.
2) Unless there are a ton of hours on the engien... there really isn't anything else to do. For giggles... you could pull one piston, and measure everything. If it's out of spec... you can do a full rebuild... otherwise, put it back together. Also... you could pull all the Con-Rod caps, and make sure all the crank journals are good. On my project... the #4 journal was beat because it threw a rod... but the #1 journal wasn't in good shape.
My gear was perfect. I had to look very close to see even a small amount of wear. So... the easiest thing to do is to remove the oil pump, and pull the pump shaft. Then... you can use a bore scope, and look in at the crank gear.
2) Unless there are a ton of hours on the engien... there really isn't anything else to do. For giggles... you could pull one piston, and measure everything. If it's out of spec... you can do a full rebuild... otherwise, put it back together. Also... you could pull all the Con-Rod caps, and make sure all the crank journals are good. On my project... the #4 journal was beat because it threw a rod... but the #1 journal wasn't in good shape.
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185utopia210
New Member
Thanks for your reply... so I won't have to pull the engine to take out the oil pump and check?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
To check it... no you don't have to pull the engine. But... to replace it... you will.
Marine solutions makes and aftermarket pump that is reliable and just as convenient as the original oil injection. I ran it for years on my last boat and it worked perfectly, giving me the peace of mind I needed without having to mix fuel. You don't have to pull the motor or rip it apart. Installing it may take an hour or so and you're good to go. Marinesolutionswi.com
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
We've talked about that before. It's a little expensive, and it can still eventually fail. But... I guess if there is an alarm of some kind, that would be helpful.
The really stupid thing is... the early 2.5l engines had a rotation alarm built into it. So... if the pump stopped spinning... it would at least warn you.
The marine solutions electronic oil injection utilizes the mercury pump, alarm, everything except for the gear on the crank. The gear on the crank is basically replaced by an electric motor that drives the oil pump. The alarm system is retained and is actually more sensitive to any variance between engine rpms and oil pump output with the electronic oil injection. An electric motor is gonna last a lot longer than a plastic gear turning a metal gear.
It is a little pricey at around $400 but it's much cheaper and costs a lot less time than a rebuild. Just my $0.02
It is a little pricey at around $400 but it's much cheaper and costs a lot less time than a rebuild. Just my $0.02
useitorlooseit
New Member
how do i know if i have that wear ring do they all?
sydneygriffith
New Member
out of curiosity, how would I know whether my engine has the gear driven pump or the new electric pump?
SG
SG
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Since your boat is a 2003........ there is a 99% chance that it has the "new" style, smartcraft engine.
Post a pic, and I'll tell you. But... if the cover on top of your engine is round... it's the old style. If it's big, and rectangular, and has a belt driven alternator... it's going to be new.
The switch over was on 2001-1/2 year engines. BUT... since seadoo releases the next model year early.... and since they have a stockpile of engines.... the 2002 boats (like mine) were generally the last. From my observations... the late 2002 started getting the new engine. I haven't seen a 2003 with the old engine.... yet.
Post a pic, and I'll tell you. But... if the cover on top of your engine is round... it's the old style. If it's big, and rectangular, and has a belt driven alternator... it's going to be new.
The switch over was on 2001-1/2 year engines. BUT... since seadoo releases the next model year early.... and since they have a stockpile of engines.... the 2002 boats (like mine) were generally the last. From my observations... the late 2002 started getting the new engine. I haven't seen a 2003 with the old engine.... yet.
Racereddie
New Member
When you were looking for the serial number just look aft on that same starboard side, under the red connector and you will see the electric oil pump.
Eddie
sydneygriffith
New Member
thank you guys. I definetely have the new style pump motor
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