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Is a 2001 GTX for me?

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Dbrown6240

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So I'm new here and I've looked a little bit but I'm kind of time crunched since I'm looking at this later today. It's a 01 GTX with about 120 hours and one owner. I know the guy and he maintains everything really well. For a 15 year old pwc, it looks nearly new. My question is what do I have to worry about? He told me it had the 1499 rotex engine. I don't do work myself but I do have disposable income if it needs work later on. Someone told me that the engines are bad for detonating and I should be careful buying one this old. He said the top ends need rebuilt often but almost no one does that. They only do the impeller and such but ignore the actual engine. Is this true and should it be a concern? I'm just looking for a toy to use a couple times a month at my camper so I refuse to pay 5k-15k for a newer model. Price is 2400$. Is this a safe buy?
 
A 2001 GTX that needs a top end is not worth $2400 regardless of nice it looks. By the time you have it fixed, you will have that $5k in it that you refuse to pay. You should check compression for yourself. There are places that still work on 2 strokes but is becoming more and more rare. It doesn't have a 1499 rotax, that is a 4 stroke and they weren't made in 2001. It probably has a 951 or 951DI 2 stroke but could have the 800 RFI 2 stroke.

Much better deals to be found this time of year, I'd pass.
 
I have a 2001 GTX. According to my Shop manual, that model came with a 717, 787 RFI, 947 carb' and 947 DI. I have the 787 RFI. These are all 2 cylinder, 2 stroke engines. I am pretty sure that the 1499 is the 4-tec, 4 stroke, 3 cylinder engine that was not offered in the 2001 GTX. If I am wrong, I am sure someone will correct me.

As far as the ski itself, I can contrast it with my 2011 GTI 155 LTD, which does have the 1499 engine.

First, the 01 is tremendously simpler. Gas, proper oil, insert key, start and go. The 2011 is all "fly by wire", so the computers take on way more work and has the IBR system where the left handlebar has a lever that kicks the machine into neutral and into reverse, compared to a mechanical F-N-R lever on the 01. The 2011, being a 4 stroke, oil goes in the crankcase (I use Amsoil), not in a mixing tank. I use Mercury Marine's Quicksilver for my 2 stroke, 787 RFI. They both have about the same top end. 54 mph in the 01 GTX RFI (speedometer), 52 mph in the 11 GTI 155 LTD (GPS). Size: the 01 is about 10 1/2 ft long, weighs about 800 pounds and has 110 HP. The 2011 is a foot longer, weighs about a 1000 lbs and has 155 HP. 01 has 120 hrs, 11 has 185 hrs. Acceleration: unless you put the 2011 into "Sport Mode", the 2001 GTX wins the drag race. My daughter will only ride the GTX. I will be keeping that 2001 GTX.

Let me know if I can contribute anything else.
 
I did not say it needed top end work. It runs perfect. I've been on it multiple times. Another friend simply warned me about engines like that possibly needing rebuilt if not done so yet and said he'd never buy a ski that old. Is this true at 120 hours? Is 2500 a fair deal if in great running and looking condition?
 
For price we need to know is it a 2001 or a 1499 4-tec as they have very different values.
 
I paid 2500 for mine a few years ago, with a trailer. Maintenance since then: rebuilt jet pump, new wear ring, replaced drain lines, need a new rectifier now. About $400 total last two years. As [MENTION=53237]mikidymac[/MENTION] says, if it's a 4-tec, it's not a 2001. If it's a 2001, it's not a 1499 4-tec.
 
You guys are correct. Neither the owner or me are mechanically inclined. It is a 2001 with the 951 engine. Trailer is included. All suggested dealer maintenance done this year including impeller and wear ring.
 
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Ok. Now, is it carburetor or DI. While there are some members on the site that are DI experts, it is substantially more difficult to diagnose and work on a DI.

I have also found that NADA guides will get you a pretty good estimate of price.
 
Yep,, carbed or DI, thats the next question.

However,, you are like 80 ma hours away from a top end rebuild no matter what. Being a 2-stroke, they are much easier and more affordable to work on, but they do require much more hands on for them to run well and get good life out of them.

4-tecs, you pretty much change the oil, make sure the oil is at the right level, check the antifreeze level and then go riding.. The 4-tecs are much closer related to your car engine mentality.
 
OK. Lots of threads on the site about the 951 carb' engine.

With a 15 yr old ski, if you are not going to do the work yourself, you need to make sure you have access to someone who will. More dealers are turning down work on the older 2 strokes.

Check with NADA guides, but I think 2400 might be in the top end of price.
 
To add to [MENTION=43374]Coastiejoe[/MENTION] post, I have spent $0 in repairs on my 2011 GTI. Oil change and annual lube for maintenance only.

The 2001 requires full winterization with Non-toxic (pink) anti-freeze. The 4-Tecs are closed systems, like your car. You just need to blow out any remaining water in the system.
 
These are small and nimble fun to ride. Not nearly as fast or heavy as the newer 4-stroke skis, and 2-stroke engines are more temperamental. I think with this old 2-stroke you need to plan doing the work yourself, it's too expensive to justify taking them to a shop assuming you can even locate a shop that will repair it for you. The value cannot justify a shop rate repair bill, IMO.
 
Got him down to 2K and bought it. Ran great and looked great. I'm new to the PWC world. Any beginner advice or maintenance needed? Which oil do you guys recommend?
 
Pictures or it didn't happen.

We need to know the actual year and model before we can answer your questions.
 
Nice looking machine.

So I own a few 2001/2000 sea doo's with the 951 engine. from less than 50 hours to 250 hours. Have probably owned 10 or more in my life. Whenever I buy a 951 I
- change the grey fuel lines (you will need about 10 feet of 5/16 and 6 feet of 1/4)
- Rebuild the carbs
- replace fuel water separator filter
- replace oil filter (if its easy to get to)
- lower on the priority, replace wear ring (but sounds like that has been done)

Those are mostly basic maintenance things that will give you peace of mind that fuel and oil will be good.

as for the oil, it depends on how you are going to use the machine. Some on this site have seen my response to oil in the past.

The science of the oils would say synthetic or mineral is heavily dependent on how you use the ski.
- The pros of synthetic is it breaks down less at high temperature and leaves less deposits.
- The pros of mineral is that it's lower viscosity coats better.

So
- Synthetic is best for a ski that is used frequently or one that is at WOT most of the time while in use.
- Mineral would be best for a ski that is used infrequently (better coating/rust protection) or while in use not run hard. (does not need viscosity protection)
 
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Sweet, I like it and it's in nice shape. 1st of all, try to find out what type of oil he was using b/c it's usually not a good idea to mix different flavors. Hopefully he was using API-TC aircooled oil with low ash package such as the Seadoo API-TC XPS 2-stroke oil and not outboard oil TCW3 type (most smell like ammonia).

If you mix API-TC and TCW3 it will turn to jello and will clog up the injection system so in this case you have to flush the wrong stuff out and convert back to API-TC (Seadoo brand is XPS-2 synthetic), I just use the Seadoo stuff in my 951 but many say Amsoil has a good oil as well.

So there are some other things you will need to do as preventative maintenance such as replace the 3/32" Tygon rubber oil injection tubing from the injection pump to the injectors on the intake plates under the carbs b/c at this age it's probably getting rotten. 3/32"ID F-4040-A Tygon tubing.

If it still runs perfect then you can wait to replace the fuel lines for awhile but eventually if the grey fuel lines are still on it they need to be replaced b/c they rot and corrode internally and will plug the carburetors. While apart for that rebuild the carbs, disassemble and hose them out internally with carb cleaner.

If it starts running crappy and hesitating, falling on it's face and quittimg, don't try making through the rest of the day b/c it's running lean, usually due to clogged carbs and this will roach a piston by running that way.

Anyway, a ski this age will need some work if not done already but if you can do it yourself it's worth it IMO. Plus you'll know way more about your ski and that pays dividends.
 
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Very nice ski! As sportster said seadoo calls for API-TC full synthetic specifically for that engine. Don't skimp on oil. The seadoo brand can be had for less than $45 per gallon.
 
mikidymac said:
Very nice ski! As sportster said seadoo calls for API-TC full synthetic specifically for that engine. Don't skimp on oil. The seadoo brand can be had for less than $45 per gallon.
Click to expand...



Previous owner has been running XD50. Do I stick with it or switch to the seadoo brand? Will it be a problem if I swap and the two mix?
 
Why so much hate for the DI? I personally think it is the best SeaDoo motor ever built and the design was years ahead of its time. A very technical motor that most don't understand. Not difficult to diagnose or fix if you understand it and have a little experience with it.

Carb 951s are good too, still rebuild them on a regular basis and many times from people using the wrong oil which is what your new ski has in it. XD50 is a TCW3 oil and not recommended for your ski and it will tell you that right where the oil cap is located on the ski. Seems most people don't know how to read anymore. Some people will say that TCW3 works fine but SeaDoo did testing and published results back in the day that showed piston wear with their full synthetic xps oil and several others including tcw3 oils. Are they biased? Of course, but I believe their results based only from experience that skis that I service and the people only using XPS full synthetic that the engines last longer. Do they still blow up? Yes, all 951s have a limited life, that is the design, but they absolutely last longer in my opinion with the proper oil.

You should check compression. Then change oil to what is recommended by the manufacturer.
 
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