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I am one lucky lady! Look what I found! 2004 Islandia

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Yes. if you start a dedicated thread you will probably get better traction on your question. but I think the parts you are looking for are all in the pump assemble / ride plate on the underside of the boat. there are a number of things you need to do. most of it is in the m2 manual. do you have these? don't have the 2001 manual, I think its actually 2001 1/2?) but I think the drive parts of the boat are the same for every one? anyway ping me if you don't have the manual
 
HELP! I'm always needing your help and tonite is another one of those times.
I WAS AN IDIOT! We ran around the biggest part of the day with the battery switch set to BOTH (Guest dual battery switch 2111A I thnk) After sitting for a while listening to the stereo and running the fountain. . .I tried to start it. Click Click nothing. That's when I realized that it was on both. We tried to jump start it with a battery box, With switched on 1, 2, both. . .to no avail. I went to town (45 min away as we are on vacation at Norris Lake Tennessee) No dice.
NO MATTER what the switch is set to the low battery light is illuminated and it will not turn over. It just clicks.
THEN. . .we notices small amount of electrical burn odor and it's coming from the switch (engine area side- not the outside behind the drivers seat. OK! We are done for the night.
I am assuming that I have burned up that switch. I sucky internet connection here. I can't get the seadoonet site to load. Can someone chime in with the part number for a starter just in case I need one? Would I need a whole starter or just a solenoid? my serial number is in my signature

It's been running good. Starting good. . . I did notice this morning that when I started it . . . It's hard to describe but it STARTED but I couldn't hear it cause I was idling very quietly (that's a crappy description) but all I had to do was give it a little throttle and it was fine immediately.
Radio works and of course the low battery light works (other than that I haven't checked to see if anything else electrical is working.

I'm headed to a boat dealership of some sort in the morning. (hopefully)

I GREATLY APPRECIATE anyone's thoughts and comments as to what else could be my problem / solution.
 
if it is your battery switch that is fried and don't want to waste the rest of your vacation waiting for parts, why don't you move the battery cable connected to the switch to the "to the boat" side of the switches terminal (both battery and boat cables connected to the same terminal on the switch). it will be hardwired to 1 battery but at least you would be sailing again.
 
June 6th Update! Run down battery = being towed .... towed too FAST = water in cylinders. Long story short.... take spark plugs out. Let water drain. Pull safety switch @ helm, crank until no more water comes out. Now it's dark. We injected 2 stroke oil into each cylinder and waited for daylight.
Now we took it back to the water. A mercury mechanic was with is now (friend of a friend that was visiting for the day) and he got it started. We ran around in it and it took a little while to get all of that oil burned out. Replaced spark plugs. NO MORE WATER in engine.
Ran it all day on the lake.
The only problem we had then and still have is that it's running VERY rough at 1/4 throttle and after a while idling (2 mins approx). WOT seems to feel ok but only getting 5500 - 5700 rpm. We've replaced coils & spark plugs again.
Spark plugs appear to be dry and running very lean.

We had it out yesterday and then again today. No change.
Runs rough [emoji30]
Compression 1,3,5 = 110 2-100, 4-110, 6-115

I'd appreciate suggestion on possible causes/ solutions.
 
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Sorry to say, but low compression means a new engine is in your future.. I bought my reman engine from crowley marine ($4,500). Do yourself a favor and make sure the gasket between the block and the exhaust support plate is sealed well. Mine isn't and leaked when I hooked up the hose on Saturday. New engine has to come out and the gasket has to be replaced. Such a shame because the new engine fires right up and sounds perfect.
 
No more water has entered the engine. Mercury mechanic thinks it's the manual fuel pump that needs rebuilt 857005A1 or possibly a fuel injector.
 
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that is good news then. If you are going to have the injectors cleaned, try BrucatoFIS. They did a great job for me. I sent them the entire throttle body and they dis-assembled, cleaned & flow matched the injectors. Was under $300 including shipping (FYI you will need to insure the package for $4k - read the statement on his website).

Mechanical fuel pump is a very easy replacement too.

Have you replaced the filter on the high pressure fuel pump in the VST yet? When you do, I recommend you replace the screws that hold the VST together with decent stainless allen head bolts.
 
Oh yeah, while it is apart you should pull the reeds and check them too.

Mine were not sealing, so I replaced them with reeds from Chris Carson Marine. Great guys, and they supplied me with all new screws to hold the reeds to the cages for next to nothing.
 
if you are going to get the fuel injectors cleaned you will be removing the throttle body. The throttle body is bolted to the intake manifold - the reeds are bolted to the underside of the intake manifold. I am fairly sure all the sportjet engines came with the yellow 2 piece fiberglass reeds - I believe the older merc engines came with stainless reeds.

click the link below for the pics of my rebuild and you will see my existing reeds, and the new 1 piece reeds I installed.

https://goo.gl/photos/rXUcFhHb4KXjSnLj9
 
Here I am a year later. We continued to use it the rest of last year just ran rich. Over the winter a small exhaust gasket leak was found and fixed.
The injectors were pulled and sent off to be reconditioned. UNFORTUNATELY the reeds were not pulled.
This past weekend I was in the water and we blew a fuse on the engine block. While replacing the fuse we got rocked by a wave from a boat passing by too close but this turned out to be good news. I felt small puffs of air coming back up through the throttle body. REED NOT SEALING
Dr. Honda diagnosed a reed problem last summer but like an idiot we never tore it down far enough to inspect them.
Anyone wanna guess what’s on our agenda for the next few weeks?
This forum is great and I appreciate all of the help I receive!
 
Well .... Dr Honda diagnosed it again. It just took me a year to follow through. I had no idea how easy it would be to pull the reeds out! One Reed was missing! It’s all put back together now with a set of Boysean reeds and she runs like a top!

92fd41b1ceac20142cfb8af2c9fcd8d4.jpg
 
Dr Honda said:
Yep... that happens, and some people say it's a "Ticking Time Bomb." But, if you keep an eye on it... it's not that bad. A lot of people like the rock grate. It's the safest option, just may clog more depending on where you boat.
Click to expand...

How would I know what type of grate I have on mine and if I have one of the ones prone for failure what are the warning signs if any?
 
jasguild said:
How would I know what type of grate I have on mine and if I have one of the ones prone for failure what are the warning signs if any?
Click to expand...

The "hydrosurge grate" (Google this and look at the pics) are the ones that fail. They have 6 tine that pivot. A rock grate is stainless steel has 11 tine. Then there is a fixed 6 tine aluminum grate.
 
What I notice on those hydro-turf color is that by time they fade really bad.... I realize dark color is better since fading is not noticeable that's just my opinion with hydroturf.... I got limegreen i wish I had it black color it will last longer w/o fading fast....
 
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