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How to Remove Exhaust Clamp on '07 Utopia?

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Eclipse1701d

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Hey guys. I am trying to remove the J-Pipe to check for blockage on my 2007 Utopia 205. I was able to easily remove the starboard side, but I cannot get the port side off. Any advice? I loosened the screw all the way, but it won't go down far enough to release the t-bar.

I am doing this because if I run over 6000 RPM I get a check engine light on the port side with one long and very loud beep. I am theorizing that one of the three holes are blocked and this happens over 6000RPM because it can't keep the exhaust cool enough... Without removing the j-pipe, I used a compressor to blow out all the hoses, but it is still happening.

Help would be GREATLY appreciated!

I also noticed that my starboard water box is missing the strap to hold it in place, which I ordered. I am glad I found it before I stressed out the starboard j-pipe. I see that it is one expensive part!
 
There are two hoses above and below between the j-pipe and the exhaust header. Make sure they are both off and not blocking the strap. Also if there is any pressure on the connector it's going to force against the strap preventing it from opening. Push the j pipe as close to the header as you can.
 
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Thanks for the advice. I removed the hoses, and took the bolt off. I pushed down on the screw and the t almost has enough play to come out, but it won't move enough to slide out. I will check and see if the hose underneath was blocking it. I will definitely try again and let you know what the outcome is. I also had someone suggest a piece of wood and a big hammer, but that seems a little excessive...
 
Hey guys. I am trying to remove the J-Pipe to check for blockage on my 2007 Utopia 205. I was able to easily remove the starboard side, but I cannot get the port side off. Any advice? I loosened the screw all the way, but it won't go down far enough to release the t-bar.

I am doing this because if I run over 6000 RPM I get a check engine light on the port side with one long and very loud beep. I am theorizing that one of the three holes are blocked and this happens over 6000RPM because it can't keep the exhaust cool enough... Without removing the j-pipe, I used a compressor to blow out all the hoses, but it is still happening.

Help would be GREATLY appreciated!

I also noticed that my starboard water box is missing the strap to hold it in place, which I ordered. I am glad I found it before I stressed out the starboard j-pipe. I see that it is one expensive part!

could be the egs sensor.....
 
I have checked for the egs sensor online to order one if needed. Can't find the part listed anywhere. Is it the same as the temperature sensor? Where exactly is it located? I would appreciate the knowledge. I like to be prepared. Thanks!
 
I have checked for the egs sensor online to order one if needed. Can't find the part listed anywhere. Is it the same as the temperature sensor? Where exactly is it located? I would appreciate the knowledge. I like to be prepared. Thanks!

Exhaust temp.
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Capture33333.JPG
 
UPDATE: Put some fluid film on the bolt that holds on the exhaust clamp last week. Finally had some time and tried again. This time, the bolt just dropped down and released. I did not see any blockage in the holes at the end of the j-pipe, but blew out all the holes with my air compressor. Could feel the air flowing freely through all three holes. Hopefully, I can bring her over 6000 RPM and not get the check engine light with the loud beep. If not, I will take pete63's advice and replace the exhaust gas temp sensor. I will keep you all updated. Thanks again for the help and the input!

Also, for those in Florida, be careful this weekend. It is operation dry water. Coast Guard, Sherriff and FWC will be out in force checking for BUI. I am sure everyone is responsible, but don't get crazy and above all, be safe!
 
Also, for those in Florida, be careful this weekend. It is operation dry water. Coast Guard, Sherriff and FWC will be out in force checking for BUI. I am sure everyone is responsible, but don't get crazy and above all, be safe!

actually for all boating, let's keep those BUI to a ZERO and have a designated helms-person.
 
THANKS TO EVERYONE! Took her out today. Brought her over 6000 RPM and had no more Check Engine Light. One tip for anyone doing this, removing the strap from the waterbox makes taking the J-pipe in and out much easier... Stress free boating rocks!
 
THANKS TO EVERYONE! Took her out today. Brought her over 6000 RPM and had no more Check Engine Light. One tip for anyone doing this, removing the strap from the waterbox makes taking the J-pipe in and out much easier... Stress free boating rocks!

hopefully solved, if the holes weren't blocked then you might think the water box was shaking causing the egts connector to throw a fault.
i'm not sure but an over heating engine or exhaust would throw a temp warning light not a engine fault unless its a short or open circuitry.
 
I will keep that in mind. Interestingly enough, the loose box was on the starboard side, but the cel was on the port side. I did reposition the port box when removing the pipe, and restrap. I also noticed that the j-pipe appeared not be seated on a proper angle going into the port box. That is now corrected. It was pretty choppy yesterday, so I couldn't go too far over 6000 RPM. However, the port cel was pretty consistent until yesterday. Going out again, today, and with more weight. Will keep you advised, thanks!
 
Okay. Took the boat out today. Ran over seagrass, no choice. Stopped the boat twice to let it fall out. Proceeded to destination. No CEL. Stayed for 5 hours. Made sure no sea grass was in the inlet. Started the boat and moved about 40 feet and got the CEL. Continuous beeps, 4 seconds apart. Stopped the engine. Restarted cleared CEL. Drove about 5 minutes. CEL came on again, no beeps... Definitely frustrated. Think I have no choice but to bring it in and have the codes read... No Temp light, no battery light, not oil light. Just CEL.
 
if you have the digital dash the procedure for retrieving codes is as follows:

With safety lanyard on its post, press 5 times the SET button to start the display of P-codes (onboard diagnostic).
Press MODE to scroll codes if more than one is present. When "list" is over, END will appear.
When END appears, press MODE to exit
you could check the sensors with a multimeter, manual has the spec's.
 
Unfortunately, I have an analog dash. My only choice would be to bring it in, or purchase a CANDOO unit. It would be nice if you there was a way to get it to flash a code. If anyone knows, that would be great!
 
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I bought the candoo, well worth it. I have three seadoo products so that's 3 of the four licenses. So it makes sense to me.
 
Side note: Like I stated earlier. After cleaning the Port J-Pipe, I had no codes for a day and a half. Then the dreaded sea grass attacked me. I had to stop multiple times to clear her out before proceeding. When I took her out of the water, I cleared the inlets of remaining grass, then flushed with salt-away. While flushing, sea grass came out of both packs. Could the code be a result of sea grass? The area I boat in is prone to massive amounts toward the end of May and through June due to shrimpers trawling the bottom. I also believe my battery is getting low and needs to be replaced. Could a low battery cause codes without a 12 volt light warning?
 
Side note: Like I stated earlier. After cleaning the Port J-Pipe, I had no codes for a day and a half. Then the dreaded sea grass attacked me. I had to stop multiple times to clear her out before proceeding. When I took her out of the water, I cleared the inlets of remaining grass, then flushed with salt-away. While flushing, sea grass came out of both packs. Could the code be a result of sea grass? The area I boat in is prone to massive amounts toward the end of May and through June due to shrimpers trawling the bottom. I also believe my battery is getting low and needs to be replaced. Could a low battery cause codes without a 12 volt light warning?

yep, i believe so.
 
If you get that much sea grass sucked up into your pump, you might want to consider putting on a filter on the water feed to the engine. This would before the intercooler if you have one.
 
I am definitely open to any ideas to help prevent any more/future problems. On a side note, I stopped by my mechanic today, he said he would be happy to hook up his computer to the boat whenever I bring it, so I will keep you all updated. Without the codes, I am just taking stabs at fixing it. I realize it could be anything from the EGS to the OPS, the TOPS, or anything in between! However, it doesn't seem to happen under 6000RPM, and it doesn't light up the Temp, Oil or 12V, just CEL. Hope to have some time on Thursday... Thanks!

Would the filter go onto one of the lines in the diagram at the link below?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...&make=seadoojb&a=65&b=9&c=0&d=-COOLING-SYSTEM
 
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filter will risk reduction in water flow, maybe worth taking the pump and hose off and have a look at the water intake and check the hose for blockages or restrictions.

so no beep when "cel" is shown? hey is that the water temp?
 
pete63. Would that be hose 8 in the diagram that I linked above? Also, the CEL is accompanied by one long beep. The operator's manual lists High Engine Temp, High Exhaust Temp and Low or High Oil Pressure, but says continuous beeps. Nothing about just one long beep... Also, no temp or oil light. But, all lights work on startup. My mechanic mentioned the knock sensor in passing, but wants it hooked up to read codes.
 
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Capture44444.JPG

as far as i know, high temp is one long beep.

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so yeah could be knock sensor, also has engine light...
fault also occurs over 5000rpm
 
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There are companies that offer an application of putting on a water filter in the cooling water. Look for this application on google: Intercooler Water Filter Kit

You will find links going to suggestions and kits at a competitors site.

There is a filter of sorts on the pump. Look at this picture at item 8 called the plug
pump detail.jpg
This is what it looks like
seadoo pump plug.jpg

There are small holes. Personally I don't see how anything can get through that but it does.
 
UPDATE: Brought her into the mechanic. He hooked it up and found two codes, 12V Regulator/Rectifier, not charging and atmospheric temperature sensor error. Both on Port. Changed them out and heading onto the water tomorrow. Hope all is good. Thanks again, for all the help and suggestions.

Mechanic did not have a rectifier in stock, neither did nearest dealer. Put a used one in temporarily to get me on the water. The rectifier problem explains the slow start-up AFTER being out on the water. IMHO, it could also be the reason the temp sensor was logging an error. I am sure low voltage could cause sensors to report errors that aren't there, but I had him change it anyway.
 
UPDATE: Brought her into the mechanic. He hooked it up and found two codes, 12V Regulator/Rectifier, not charging and atmospheric temperature sensor error. Both on Port. Changed them out and heading onto the water tomorrow. Hope all is good. Thanks again, for all the help and suggestions.

Mechanic did not have a rectifier in stock, neither did nearest dealer. Put a used one in temporarily to get me on the water. The rectifier problem explains the slow start-up AFTER being out on the water. IMHO, it could also be the reason the temp sensor was logging an error. I am sure low voltage could cause sensors to report errors that aren't there, but I had him change it anyway.

thats good news

but if you had a candoo, no hooking up to the car and driving to a dealer for faults, not as much pounding your head against a wall...............
 
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