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Help - Considering buying 2010 Seadoo Wake 210 with 430hp

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sandals99

sandals99

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Hello,

I wasn't initially looking for a Seadoo boat but this one has caught my eye. It is a 2010 Seadoo Wake 210 with the 430 hp supercharged engines. I don't know much about these boats and have been reading as much as I can over the last few days on these forums. I would like your assistance in knowing what i should look out for when i go and see the boat? There are approx. 60hrs on the boat. I have read that these supercharges require an overhaul at the 200hr mark? Any comments on what that would cost? our last boat had a 3.0L Merc which was very easy for me to winterize and change the oil on, how easy/hard is it to do those two things on this type of boat?

I do like the idea of not having a prop at the back and know that there are pros and cons to this. I was initially looking for a good all around boat that we can ski, tube and surf from. I realize that the ballast is probably not enough on this boat to wake surf behind, but was wondering if anyone has tried and what the outcome was?

thanks everyone for the help in advance.
 
Hopefully someone can come by soon, the season is right around the corner, I heard that the ceramic washers should be replaced about at 100 hours, not sure if the 2010 require that at 100 or 200 hrs. Welcome to the board anyway! :)
 
08 was the last year with ceramic washers, that said, some 09's have them. Best we can tell is they were early build 09's and still had some of the 08 parts. The rebuilds are to be done at 100 hours unless, you have the updated shaft and parts from the 09 and newer version. I would assume the 2010 boat would have the updated parts which would put you at the 200 hour mark. All that said, there are other parts that simply age regardless of hours. This is even more important with skis/boats used in salt water. There are bearings and cages ect ect that become brittle, so every two years is the recommended rebuild time.

Flushing and winterizing is easy.
 
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thanks for the response. this was supposed to be only used in freshwater lakes with 60hrs on the engine. I am hoping to see it on Saturday.



thanks,
 
I have a single 215 s/c engine. Hear in Phoenix a s/c rebuild runs about $650-700.(each s/charger) If you're handy with a wrench, there are threads on this forum that will show you how to remove / ship it for rebuilding and reinstall at a savings. The DIY maintenance, oil filter & plugs is easy, I buy a Seadoo annual kit with oil / filter / o-rings/plugs for around $70 on EBAY.... Happy Boating!
 
wow, didn't realize the s/c rebuild was that expensive and then times by 2 for the twin engines. I think i read somewhere that is required every 200 hours.

the owner seems firm on 25k Cdn for this boat, will be heading out in a couple of hours to look at it.

thanks!
 
on my last boat with the 3.0l merc, they had a oil drain house that snaked out the drain plug hole to remove the engine oil from. How do you get the oil drained out on these boats? do you have to buy a pump?

thanks,
 
Supercharger rebuild shouldn't be as expensive as other post stated unless you have a dealer do it. If you are handy enough to take it off by yourself, then you can ship it out to have it rebuilt. This site offers a rebuild service for $415:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?70191-Sea-Doo-Supercharger-Rebuild-Service

Just as others have said, it needs to be done at 2 years or 200hrs which ever comes first. All other maintenance is easy, and you will need to buy a quality vacuum pump to pump oil out of the dip stick tube. All other maintenance is fairly normal and straight forward. These engines have a closed loop cooling system that uses regular car antifreeze and that should be changed every 2-3 years, simple to do just drain and refill.

Since you probably will not be able to water test, go over everything very carefully. Inspect the jet pump and other things closely.

Good luck with everything, hope the purchase works out. Post back and let us know what happens...
 
Checked out the boat and it looks to be in great shape. You are correct that it can't be water tested. Went to the local dealer that does servicing on the boat and they said it was a great boat. What would you look for in the jet pump, and where is that located?

Also, what is the best way to start this up? I read somewhere that you need to attached a garden hose somewhere, not exactly sure where though?
 
A heads up on the hose,,, It goes ENGINE ON, then water on, then WATER OFF, then engine on. Do it in any other order and you can force water into the cylinders and lock up the engine. It will then get rusty and be destroyed if you don't clear the cylinders out and run it up to temp. And,,, the hose is designed for FLUSHING, not to run the engine on to get it up to temp. While on the hose the water runs in reverse direction and FLUSHES the lines and engine. We are talking like only a minute or so. You will damage the Carbon Seal if you run it for more than a minute or so as the seal is cooled by the water the boat is sitting in.
 
thanks CoastieJoe, and where do you connect the hose to? is it in the engine compartment or is it the back of the boat? i am going back to see the boat again tommorow and just wondering if i should try and fire it up. the boat is in heated storage and has been winterized by the local Seadoo dealership.
 
There is a small tube that comes out of the jet pump, it will be in the upper left corner. The tube has threads cut on the inside to accept the male end of a garden hose.

94.jpg


As for the jet pump, just want to make sure the wear ring and impeller are both in good condition. It would be evident in a test drive if the jet pump needed service because you would experience cavitation, but since no water test in the winter you will need to do a close visual inspection. You can get a good look from crawling under the boat and looking at it through the intake grate. Search the threads for wear ring and impeller and you should find a wealth of info about how to inspect it.
 
went and saw the boat again, was able to start it up and both engines fired up right away, only let it run for a few seconds, sounded fine. noticed some fluid drained out of the back, i think that is normal. Did the deal, and we'll leave it in the indoor storage until the end of march, can't wait to take it out. thanks for all the info. now to find a service manual to keep close by.
 
click on the seadoo manuals button on the top of this page, you should be able to download PDF copies of the service manuals for your boat and engine. You'll have plenty of dark cold days to study up before hitting the water.

congratulations on the purchase!
 
sandals99 said:
went and saw the boat again, was able to start it up and both engines fired up right away, only let it run for a few seconds, sounded fine. noticed some fluid drained out of the back, i think that is normal. Did the deal, and we'll leave it in the indoor storage until the end of march, can't wait to take it out. thanks for all the info. now to find a service manual to keep close by.
Click to expand...

Congrats dude welcome to the club.
 
I was thinking of adding a second battery so that when we are out, we can have the stereo on and not worry about not being able to start up the boat. Has anyone done this?
I was also wanting to add some LED lighting and look for some ideas on that.

thanks!
 
I've ran my stereo for 3-4hrs while parked at the beach with no issues. Unless you plan to add stereo upgrades like Amps/Subs, I wouldn't worry about it.
Make sure you try a 360 on a calm flat day!! These boats are a lot of fun to play with.
Enjoy!!
 
thanks Cojoo5, it has tower speakers and i am not sure if there is an amp in the boat or not, it all looks to be factory installed.

Has anyone put in tow valves? if not, do you keep some pliers on board to pinch the hoses in case you have to get towed?
 
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Have a set of "hose pinchers" zap strapped to battery hold down. The pinchers have rounded prongs rather than sharp plier teeth. If near Princess Auto / hardware store can find them there.

Have read some posts on here about tow valves, key is not to restrict water flow thus ensure opening through valve same as through line.
 
thanks Lineofsight, i'll check princess auto. Where on West Coast are you? i'm in the okanagan. Might be better to keep the hose pinchers on hand instead of installing the tow valves.
 
Okanagan, am envious. Am south end of Surrey. Will have our 210SE in Osoyoos Lake a couple weeks in August (and possibly Skaha in July).

Also loosely put a zap strap on the correct hose (cause am likely to get it wrong when manual is not handy).

The other item I have zap strapped to the battery hold down is a spare plug... (just in case lose it or someone is "funny" while boat is on trailer...)
 
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