• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

HELP! 97 Seadoo XP Bombadier question...

Status
Not open for further replies.
XP 787 said:
Make sure the air box cover is on correctly also. It may be pulling air from the sides giving you the whistling noise.
Click to expand...

Still new to all of this, but the way it works is air is pulled through each air intake opening on the sides and run through to the engine to cool it correct? Once the air gets into the engine does it also go through the air intake silencer? I've only had it a week, so I haven't lubed inside the air intake silencer like it states to do after flushing for 3 minutes.
 
No the water from the lake or hose runs thru the pipe and engine to cool. Its a liquid cooled engine. Just took a look at my air box it has 4 holes in each corner of the lower box air goes up those holes then down thru the spark arrestor into the carbs. The "lubing" is actually fogging the engine. This is done prior to an extended storage although some like to fog after every ride. It keeps cylinders and rings from sticking.
 
SeaDooGood said:
Still new to all of this, but the way it works is air is pulled through each air intake opening on the sides and run through to the engine to cool it correct? Once the air gets into the engine does it also go through the air intake silencer? I've only had it a week, so I haven't lubed inside the air intake silencer like it states to do after flushing for 3 minutes.
Click to expand...

I would not flush it for 3 minutes. The carbon seal will get VERY hot and could be damaged. I would do 1 minute maximum..
 
Coastiejoe said:
I would not flush it for 3 minutes. The carbon seal will get VERY hot and could be damaged. I would do 1 minute maximum..
Click to expand...

Thanks for all y'all advice and help! It is greatly appreciated. I will check the air intake and then get started on removing the jet pump and impeller to inspect and replace. Any regular 75w-90 gear oil would work fine in the cone correct?
 
Mobil synthetic. The lower clips are a pain to slide onto the top cover of the air box so I use zip ties as a precaution.
 
XP 787 said:
Mobil synthetic. The lower clips are a pain to slide onto the top cover of the air box so I use zip ties as a precaution.
Click to expand...

Wait, I'm talking about the oil in the cone of the jet pump assembly....not the motor oil. What are you referring to in the air box?
 
Yea Mobil synthetic gear oil is best to use for your jetpump. The top cover of your airbox has 6 clips that slide into place to secure it. The bottom ones are a pain that's y I also use zipties.
 
P.S. Probably a stupid question but you do know that ski uses 2 stroke oil and not regular motor oil right? I only ask because you said you are new to this and in the last post you said not the motor oil
 
XP 787 said:
P.S. Probably a stupid question but you do know that ski uses 2 stroke oil and not regular motor oil right? I only ask because you said you are new to this and in the last post you said not the motor oil
Click to expand...

Yes you mean for the engine oil correct? 2 stroke full synthetic low ash (Seadoo XPS or Amsoil Interceptor is what I gathered was best for the engine oil).

You were just letting me know that if I take the airbox cover off that the clips may be hard to take off too? Didn't know if the airbox had anything to do with the jet pump assembly that I was referring to.
 
yes I run the xps best stuff u can get just a little pricey. The air box has nothing to do with your jetpump. The only reason I said to check it is because the whistiling noise might be coming from there if the cover isn't secure.
 
XP 787 said:
yes I run the xps best stuff u can get just a little pricey. The air box has nothing to do with your jetpump. The only reason I said to check it is because the whistiling noise might be coming from there if the cover isn't secure.
Click to expand...

Ahhh ok now I got ya! So when checking the aitbox there should be 6 clips holding it down? I'll add some zip ties too, if it's loose or some of the clips are missing.
 
XP 787 said:
Make sure the air box cover is on correctly also. It may be pulling air from the sides giving you the whistling noise.
Click to expand...

I think I may have found the culprit of the whistling noise upon acceleration. Is my air intake silencer plug missing?! It's just a hole there, I don't see any plug to pull up on? Could this be why it is cavitating too???
 

Attachments

  • IMAG5257.jpg
    IMAG5257.jpg
    96 KB · Views: 14
  • IMAG5258.jpg
    IMAG5258.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 11
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes mine is missing also with no noise. Also this will have nothing to do with cavitation issues. Cavitation can be caused by a number of things most likely a bad wear ring, bad carbon seal, damaged impeller.
 
Ok, so I just got done taking the jet pump assembly off and impeller. I took some pics also to get you guys opinions. The wear ring appears good to me. No obvious wear and the gap looks less than a dime all the way around, so impeller seems to have a good tight fit. What do y'all think of the splines on the driveshaft? I don't know how deep the splines are on a new one, but they seem to be worn down quite a bit to me. Maybe this is why I'm spinning/cavitating but not getting a good push? Should I open the cone and look for metal shavings in the oil now? Trying to figure out where to go from here. If I should just replace the driveshaft (if the splines are worn down too much in y'all opion) or continue further and pull out the driveshaft to inspect the bearings?
 

Attachments

  • IMAG5271.jpg
    IMAG5271.jpg
    84.4 KB · Views: 16
  • IMAG5272.jpg
    IMAG5272.jpg
    94.4 KB · Views: 16
  • IMAG5270.jpg
    IMAG5270.jpg
    60.6 KB · Views: 16
  • IMAG5269.jpg
    IMAG5269.jpg
    62.9 KB · Views: 17
  • IMAG5266.jpg
    IMAG5266.jpg
    66.7 KB · Views: 16
Last edited by a moderator:
Where the front of the wear ring touches the black plastic pump support (the black plastic piece mounted to the hull) there is no neoprene seal. I would also seal the edges of the pump shoe to the hull. While you have the pump out inspect the rubber bellow (boot) around the VTS rod, it's probably cracked and that will allow water into the VTS box and fry it. (look at the boot in the last pic)



468.jpg




You can see the black RTV I smeared along the pump shoe in the pump tunnel.



469.jpg






VTS boot


470.jpg
 
Also verify INSIDE the hull where the accordion boot is around the driveshaft that you still have the big o-ring behind it. It's #3 on the picture. That will help put tension on the carbon seal and help against cavitation.

Also, the splines look OK, but it's hard to tell with all the grease, but I think you're good to go.



228.jpg
 
So you think not having that neoprene seal is causing my issues? I plan on changing the oil in the pump cone today. If there is metal shavings in it, should I suspect the drive shaft splines may be too worn and it's just spinning? Should I go further and take out the drive shaft and inspect the ball bearings? Just trying to figure out where to go from here.
 
If there is metal shavings in the cone then rebuild you're jetpump. From the looks of it your driveshaft looks ok. Also check your rear carrier bearing for play. Make sure the drive shaft isn't moving around too much in there. #19 in the pic. Get the neoprene seal as well. As racerxxx stated inspect the VTS boot for tears, I have the same ski and mine was ripped.
 
XP 787 said:
If there is metal shavings in the cone then rebuild you're jetpump. From the looks of it your driveshaft looks ok. Also check your rear carrier bearing for play. Make sure the drive shaft isn't moving around too much in there. #19 in the pic. Get the neoprene seal as well. As racerxxx stated inspect the VTS boot for tears, I have the same ski and mine was ripped.
Click to expand...

Would not having the neoprene seal cause cavitation? It's odd bc it didn't do it the first 2 days I rode it and at the same time the whistling noise started thats when I began noticing some cavitation.
 
Not having some kind of seal will cause cavitation, air gets in there and out the jetpump or water can go in your hull. Back to the carrier bearing.... there is also a grease nipple which should be greased every 50 hours or so. personally I grease it after every 10 hrs, only takes about 1 pump of the grease gun. If that bearing runs dry its a pretty big project to swap it out. This may also be a source for the whining noise.
 
CAVERJIM said:
Kinda hard to tell with grease clean it off.
Click to expand...

Ok I'll clean it off and snap some more pics. There is definitely no neoprene seal where the wear ring presses up against the hull. Also, I haven't taken a look at the other end of the drive shaft setup closest to the engine, should I inspect that area too? So far the only things that are wrong/missing that I've concluded is:

1) no neoprene seal on wear ring
2) no air intake silencer plug (majority of people said this wouldn't cause the whistling noise nor cavitation)

I plan on taking the cone off and inspecting/changing the oil in it. What exactly should I look for? I read that it should be a honey brown color? When replacing this oil, any 75w-90 synthetic gear oil will do (I was planning on to use Valvoline full synthetic 75w-90 gear oil) correct?

Where can I buy a new neoprene seal from? Seadoo dealer?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

A
97 XP stator/rectifier
Replies
3
Views
147
mikidymac
mikidymac
C
97 XP Revival!!
Replies
8
Views
186
Caseypsmith
C
T
1997 GSX Winterize Question
Replies
5
Views
159
mikidymac
mikidymac
geniovila76
Seadoo 97 xp Carburetor rebuild kit
Replies
2
Views
116
geniovila76
geniovila76
C
1997 xp boarding s
Replies
4
Views
149
Crs97xp
C
Back
Top