Help!!!! 2000 Sea Doo Islandia No Spark 240 Efi.

[Machinehead]

Well pretty frustrated. Just redid my 2000. Ran it in driveway after winter storage ran great.

Put in in for first time never got away from launch. Started and stalled several times. Than didn't try to start at all just turns over.

Tried new plugs in case fouled out and no change. Pulled it out and brought it home.

No Spark for sure.

Checked Already. Ignition Shut of module for Ignition Buddy has already been removed at some point. Checked all fuses and they are good.

Any ideas where to check next?

 

[Tim75]

Find and trace a black/yellow stripe wire. That is the kill wire. It may have a short somewhere.

 

[Machinehead]

Black and yellow looks good from all that I can trace.

 

[Tim75]

From kill switch back to top of engine?

 

[Guarracs]

Just go behind the kill switch itself and unplug it completely and see if you get spark then. I run my boat with it disconnected when I hit wakes sometimes my safety lanyard will fall off the post and kill the engine so I got rid of it

 

[Tim75]

Not a fan of defeating safety systems...........

 

[Machinehead]

Got spark back. Someone prior to me had pulled ignition buddy and old cutting of wires had grounded out. BUT that was only half my problem. Seems initial no start was lack of fuel. Now that I got spark back it will only run when fuel manually sprayed into cylinders.

I have no pressure at the Schrader valve. So not sure where to go from here.

 

[Tim75]

The schrader valve is on top of the VST. There is a pump inside. When you turn the key to run, you should be able to feel the motor running. On the side, bottom, there is a drain screw. Open that a couple of turns. Gas should drain out. If not, the internal float needle is probably stuck (corroded). Needs disassembly and clean.

 

[Machinehead]

Lift pump ticksand seems to be functioning properly. Pulled drain screw and some gas come out...not a ton. Recycled system to see if filled up again. It did not. Pushed on valve (did not have fuel pressure gauge on hand.) Zero pressure.

 

[Tim75]

Were you able to feel the motor running inside the VST?

 

[Machinehead]

I will check again when I get home but I do not believe so. I feel the clicking in the sq black box that I believe is the lift pump but nothing from the unit it feeds.

 

[Tim75]

Inside the VST is a float valve. Just like an old carb. The seat is brass. The needle is aluminum with a rubber tip. The alky-gas can cause electrolosys and seize the needle in the seat frequently in the closed position. Especially if the boat sits for a while.

Do you not feel anything from the VST?

 

[Machinehead]

I feel nothing at the VST

 

[Tim75]

I feel nothing at the VST

Start checking fuses and tracing wires on the engine. It's also possible that the pump motor inside the VST has seized.

Did you ever get spark? Have you checked the trigger according to the manual?

 

[Machinehead]

I did get spark back after I repaired a wire. Of course that turned out to be a secondary issue. I think the pump failed and I was digging around trying to find out why it wasn't starting, and I moved some wires with a poor ground that than caused the no spark issue. That sent me down a rabbit hole for a couple days and turned out not to be the original no start issue in the first place.

I have checked all fuses and they are good. So I'm thinking the pump is junk.

Now, am I looking at this system correctly?

Lets call pump 1 the Square box that tics when you turn the key on. I'm assuming that is a primer or lift pump that operates like squeezing the bulb on an outboard to get fuel up to where it needs to go, but in this case it is done electronically.

It looks like that feeds into another unit that we will call pump 2, or is that part of the oil injection system where oil is mixed with fuel before it moves onto the next unit?

Than it all ends up into the finial unit where I think the issue is. You call it the VST, I'll call it pump 3 at this point. So I'm assuming that a pump resides in that unit that feeds the injection system and I would also assume it is a fairly high pressure pump. Does a filter also reside inside that housing or no? I do not see a filter.

I have had no luck finding any video on testing or replacing pumps on this engine. Kind of shooting in the dark on this. LOL.

 

[Tim75]

You are almost exactly correct.

Pump 1: closest to tank, the "cubic" pump. Filter #1 screws in.
Filter #2: large-ish canister unit, starboard side of engine.

Pump 2: engine driven by crankcase vacuum/pressure pulses. Pumps only gas, no oil.

Pump 3: the VST. Internal pump and filter on the bottom of the pump. There is a regulator toward the rear of the unit. Pressure checked at the tire valve on top. Looking for 36 psi. Oil is mixed inside VST. Filter #3 is inside. Each injector has a strainer, too.

 

[meaubry]

Inside the vapor seperator is the last fuel pump. On the very bottom is attached a cylindrical screen type filter called the final filter. You will also see the plastic float with the needle valve and can check for a problem with it also. To do the final filter and needle valve check, you have to remove all the screws holding the VST top to the bottom half. Watch out for the black rubber seal which runs around the parameter when reinstalling, I had trouble keeping the thing in the seal groove, due to it stretching once I opened the case. Taking the VST on and off multiple times isn’t much fun.

 

[Machinehead]

Thanks guys. I'm going to pull it apart and see what it looks like today hopefully

 

[Machinehead]

Ok. In really stumped now. Pulled VST and have never been so excited to find dirt and scum in the unit. Figured it was the issue for sure

But filter looks pretty clean and can blow freely in it. Bench tested pump and it runs with direct power to it. So I'm not sure I'm in right area. It is for sure a fuel issue but not sure if it's this unit causing it.

GOD I wish we had some decent repair facilities so I could just pay someone to fix the thing.

Looks like no boat at the rented cabin for us next week

 

[meaubry]

Did you check if the fuel pressure regulator is working? It’s mounted to the top of the VST and has a small vacuum tube on top, a big fuel line on the side, and the shrader valve on it where you check the fuel pressure it. Maybe, that regulator isn’t working.
Also, the service manual indicated that you should prime the system by pumping the lift pump for 60 seconds and that may require you to turn the key on and off a number of times to achieve that time. Mine stays on for somewhere around 25 seconds, so I turned the key on a couple times before checking it.
It should read between 32 and 36psi.
I also rotate the lever that the throttle cable is attached to, which is tucked under the VST on the engine, a couple times to verify that I didn’t pinch or obstruct any of the levers, when I reninstalled the VST after checking the final filter and motor.
I found that this engine is extremely sensative to throttle adjustment. The spring loaded lever that is commented to the roller wheel follower, has a small slot for adjustment.
Once you determine if you have fuel pressure at the shrader valve, have someone turn the key, while you are holding the spring loaded lever just a bit rotated. It might surprise you and start.

 

[Machinehead]

Thanks for reply.

Fingers crossed I may have found it. Under further examination ......in the light. (It was pretty late when I got it all tore down last night) the float was stuck. Pulled it apart and cleaned everything and is working fine now.

I will try to put it all back together tonight and see what happens. No way it can't have been the issue. With that stuck up it thought the fuel chamber was full and not allowing gas to enter.

We shall see.

 

[Machinehead]

Back together and runs.

 

[vigalass]

congrats! Hopefully in time for the cabin. Be grateful. I'm fighting an issue for a month. Glad your's is fixed.