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Hard starting RFI - 787 GTX 2001

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After getting my idle issue resolved I'm now experiencing issues with starting in the water at any random moment. The battery was freshly installed while diagnosing the idle issue so that's ruled out.
 
Hi all...Well small successes. I have replaced the coil "thanks Nick (Minnetonka4me)" and the ski will now start in the water. It does not fire up right away but will start within 2 tries. It seem snow that I have to feather the throttle to get it to stay running after it fires. this occurs if I leave it sit more than one minute (if I start it with in then first 60 seconds it fires and runs fine on the first push of the start button). A couple of times it took more than 2 tries on the start button to result in a running ski but never-the-less it eventually started each time. I am now leaning toward the tps zero out and adjustment to fine tune the fuel being delivered at start. Anyone out there in the Des Moines, Iowa region with a CanDooPro??
 
I think the problem might go back to the statement in your first post it says you put some oil in the gas for break in. I was told when i got a rebuilt engine not to put break in oil in as it will clog the injectors. Maybe you need to have them cleaned?
 
As long as it starts in 2-3 tries I would leave it alone... these things aren't fuel injected V8s... and they are, in your case, 11 years old...

It often takes 2-3 tries to start my 951 carbs...

Even my buddie's 787 RFI GSX takes 2-3 tries sometimes, and it only has 35 hours on it!
 
As everyone has stated here having the same issues with my 2000 787 RFI ,, hard starts in water ,, perfect starts on trailer, compression good, rotary clearance good, etc etc,,,,, I DID get new injectors put in a few days ago as I read this may be the cause,,,,,, result,, it is better but not perfect,, it well start 8 times outta ten now in the water if you open the throttle a little bit, ski runs perfect in water after getting it started 6800 rpms etc etc,,, its just so the frustrating the two times outta ten that it wont start grrrr,,, I hope we can get this resolved if we all work together as i have read online about many of us having this issue, have also checked the rave valves and all these are in spec and a new starter solinoid was installed also with a 300 cranking amp battery, so so far we can rule out injectors battery and starter dragging and compression as mine is 150 150and rotary valve clearance , am thinking coil buyt that just doesnt make any sense to me since it runs fine when started.... keeep posting please we will get this resolved
 
Yada,
I am really starting to believe, in my case at least, that there are a few small issues that are all contributing. I replaced the coil and had a time at the lake where it was just me and no one else wanting to ride so I was able to do as much testing as I wanted. I proved, through a series of starts, stops, waiting specific intervals and swapping coils back and forth, that my replacement coil was contributing directly to my success. I have yet to do injectors but I am thinking the TPS setting is not my most critical next step. Unfortunately a house project has taken over my life and I am losing valuable late summer early fall weather to be tweaking and testing.....I will post when I learn more.
 
I put my new 40hour coil in and it fired right up after riding it but once it sits im back to holding and feathering the throttle to get it to start. I think it might be the TPS
 
I put my new 40hour coil in and it fired right up after riding it but once it sits im back to holding and feathering the throttle to get it to start. I think it might be the TPS

My RFI issue ended up being a missing gasket causing the motor to suck too much air all the time. I always have to give it a little gas to start but that's fine with me. I think that's typical, had to do the same thing on SaberTooths 99 951 Carb. I'll take that over not starting at all. The other issue I've now come across is that after a minute or two of idling it'll start to drop in RPM's and eventually stall out. Solution... don't idle for more than a minute, run it or shut it off!
 
I have a gtx rfi that had very similar hard start and idle problems. My issue turned out to be caused from ethanol in the gas. I started adding Stabil Marine ethanol treatment with every fill up and it resolved all of the issues.
You may also have a fuel restriction from a dirty strainer. If you remove the rfi pump assembly out of the gas tank you will see a suction screen / strainer at the base of the pump. To remove the pump just take out the circular pattern nuts holding it down to the tank and it will lift right out. Be carefull when cleaning the strainer not to damage it because it is not a replaceable part. The entire pump assembly is 1 part no pieces sold separately.
 
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actually there is 2 strainers in the pump, you can replace the strainers with the original parts -- they are airtex strainers sold at advanced auto parts, also the pump itself can be replaced with the original part number bosch pump -- sold at discount auto parts, -- i bought pump, both strainers and was like 100 .00 total including tax, i have the part numbers in a big brown envelope if you guys want
 
never had a hard start problem, make a post on what its doin, a set of injectors in mine did it a whole lotta good, when u overhaul or put a new engine in an rfi ski, i would a -- rebuild the pump with pump and 2 strainers -- whole job is 100.00 and about 1 maybe 1 1/2 hrs work, also replace both injectors, 59.00 each at fiveomotorsports.com and thats it, no fuel lines, carb overhauls, nothin, make sure your t/body is clean, replace both oil inj. lines -- ($4.50) - get tps value set into your mpem, and your done -- if your rotary valve is set properly, and you have no air leak at rotary valve cover and t/body base gskt, this is all we need to do with rfi's ... im gonna change my injectors every 2 seasons i think -- cause an injector cost me a motor when it stuck open ...

also, my buddys 2000 rfi, his fuel pressure would bleed off when he shuts it off, when u first put key on post, it will energize pump and bam -- u should have 55psi - 58 psi -- when u shut it off it should stay there, then bleed off just a little, i can let mine set a week, then it cranks like 1-2 seconds, then fires, if u have a long crank time, i would be leaning on your pump -- if you take pump module out, and take pump off, u will see, pump fits on a metal stem on module assy, and that seal leaks, u get new seals with pump, not really a hard job, comes out through your glove box
 
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