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Getting the oil out of the 4-Tec engine
- Thread starter mdgff
- Start date
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Just checked my manual so this is the procedure for a 2007 4-tec oil draining.
1) Run engine at 4000 rmp for 10 secs
2) Remove dipstick and oil filler cap
3) Using suction pump (P/N 529 035 030), siphon oil through dipstick hole. You should be able to instert the siphon hose 18.7in.
4) Pull out siphon tube and then crank the engine for 10 seconds (don't start)
5) Re-syphon
6) Repeat 3, 4 & 5 two to three times
Time to celebrate cause all the oil is out of your engine! :cheers:
1) Run engine at 4000 rmp for 10 secs
2) Remove dipstick and oil filler cap
3) Using suction pump (P/N 529 035 030), siphon oil through dipstick hole. You should be able to instert the siphon hose 18.7in.
4) Pull out siphon tube and then crank the engine for 10 seconds (don't start)
5) Re-syphon
6) Repeat 3, 4 & 5 two to three times
Time to celebrate cause all the oil is out of your engine! :cheers:
Last edited by a moderator:
Good catch...thanks! That was a typo and it should have read 10 secs. I changed the above post so not to confuse anyone.
And to clarify what you said, you can run on the hose for up to five minutes. You are never 'supposed' to run off the hose, but a few seconds isn't going to cause any problems. I always to a test start before I leave my house!
Matt
And to clarify what you said, you can run on the hose for up to five minutes. You are never 'supposed' to run off the hose, but a few seconds isn't going to cause any problems. I always to a test start before I leave my house!
Matt
5 minutes.....
You can actually run the 4-TEC for up to 5 minutes. The engine has a closed loop cooling system so it won't overheat. The water supply from the hose is for the open loop cooling for the tuned exhaust and if SCIC, the intercooler.
The only worry in running the 4-TEC on a garden hose is the cooling of the shaft seal. This can not be cooled or lubricated on the trailer.
The oil is removed through the dip stick by a dip stick suction pump. You should be able to find one in your local auto parts store or if you have Wal Mart (they seem to be everywhere) over there, you may find it in the sporting good section.:cheers:
You can actually run the 4-TEC for up to 5 minutes. The engine has a closed loop cooling system so it won't overheat. The water supply from the hose is for the open loop cooling for the tuned exhaust and if SCIC, the intercooler.
The only worry in running the 4-TEC on a garden hose is the cooling of the shaft seal. This can not be cooled or lubricated on the trailer.
The oil is removed through the dip stick by a dip stick suction pump. You should be able to find one in your local auto parts store or if you have Wal Mart (they seem to be everywhere) over there, you may find it in the sporting good section.:cheers:
Changing the oil on a 4-tec engine…all models
________________________________________
Here is the info on the oil change. If you still need info let me know. I own a 200 speedster 310 hp.
Here are the part numbers you need to change the oil and filter in ALL 4-tec engines.
(3) "O" rings
1)420320920-$7.25
2)420850500-$8.99
3)420950860-$2.20
Oil filter /I use a K&N off their website, or go to our "parts" link
1)KN556-$12.95
Oil 10w40 Mineral Oil from seadoo#219700346-$6.50 a qt.
Be sure you use 10w40, marine 4 stroke Oil, with a API of SL, SJ or SN.
You need 3 L or 2.7 us quarts with filter for oil change.
Oil extractor from West Marine. Company Tempo, Part# 170200 Model# OB5 Retails about $50.00.
Change the oil when it is warm. Rev the engine to 4,000 rpm for 10 sec. and shut off at this rpm. This moves all the oil from the pto housing to the oil tank for maximum draining. Remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick. Insert the extractor tube in the dipstick 18.7 inches from the top of the dipstick pipe. Wrap tape around the tube to be sure it is in that deep. Next, extract the oil from the dipstick. (on pwc models only, the next step applies)When no more oil is extracted, pull the tube out of the dipstick hole and crank the engine(do not start) while the engine is in drown mode(fully depress the throttle lever, or on Jet Boats grab the throttle cable linkage at the throttle body and HOLD it open than crank the engine, get a friend to help)
Crank the engine for 10 seconds, Extract oil again, repeat crank extract 2-3 more times.
Keep track of how much oil you extract and add what you removed.
You will need a E-10 star socket or a 8mm,(6pt) socket to remove the oil filter cap. There are 3 "O" rings in the filter cap area if they are damaged change them. Check level, and go have fun. I hope this info helps.
Do you have a seadoo shop manual? If not here’s an idea for you. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.
Karl
________________________________________
Here is the info on the oil change. If you still need info let me know. I own a 200 speedster 310 hp.
Here are the part numbers you need to change the oil and filter in ALL 4-tec engines.
(3) "O" rings
1)420320920-$7.25
2)420850500-$8.99
3)420950860-$2.20
Oil filter /I use a K&N off their website, or go to our "parts" link
1)KN556-$12.95
Oil 10w40 Mineral Oil from seadoo#219700346-$6.50 a qt.
Be sure you use 10w40, marine 4 stroke Oil, with a API of SL, SJ or SN.
You need 3 L or 2.7 us quarts with filter for oil change.
Oil extractor from West Marine. Company Tempo, Part# 170200 Model# OB5 Retails about $50.00.
Change the oil when it is warm. Rev the engine to 4,000 rpm for 10 sec. and shut off at this rpm. This moves all the oil from the pto housing to the oil tank for maximum draining. Remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick. Insert the extractor tube in the dipstick 18.7 inches from the top of the dipstick pipe. Wrap tape around the tube to be sure it is in that deep. Next, extract the oil from the dipstick. (on pwc models only, the next step applies)When no more oil is extracted, pull the tube out of the dipstick hole and crank the engine(do not start) while the engine is in drown mode(fully depress the throttle lever, or on Jet Boats grab the throttle cable linkage at the throttle body and HOLD it open than crank the engine, get a friend to help)
Crank the engine for 10 seconds, Extract oil again, repeat crank extract 2-3 more times.
Keep track of how much oil you extract and add what you removed.
You will need a E-10 star socket or a 8mm,(6pt) socket to remove the oil filter cap. There are 3 "O" rings in the filter cap area if they are damaged change them. Check level, and go have fun. I hope this info helps.
Do you have a seadoo shop manual? If not here’s an idea for you. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.
Karl
It's a canister type like you suggest and its easy to find!
:agree: Looks like Karl's got you covered on the instructions!
Just one thing to add....which I have already said. Put a towel down or be careful when removing the filter just to make sure no oil gets anywhere! You don't want oil stains in your hull just yet.
Matt
We aim to please Geoff. 
Karl
Karl
sporsterjoel
New Member
When you say crank the engine for 10sec (dont start) do you mean to turn it over by hand or do you you un hook the pluge wires? just read karls said hold throttle body open. so if i hold it open and hit the start botton it wont start???
Last edited by a moderator:
When you hold the throttle at WOT (drown engine mode) it disables the start function (so then engine won't start but it will crank).
So to answer you question, simply hold the throttle at WOT and press the start button for 10 secs. You do not need to disconnect the plug wires or crank it by hand.
Hope this helps!
Matt
So to answer you question, simply hold the throttle at WOT and press the start button for 10 secs. You do not need to disconnect the plug wires or crank it by hand.
Hope this helps!
Matt
Edit.....?
I was reading this post since it's an older one that has come back up front and noticed in post #3, step #4 that you say to crank the engine for 10 seconds but don't start. I almost edited but after realizing it was older, I kept reading to see what was new..........and what I wanted to edit is what you made new........
The "drown mode" is activated when you open the throttle all the way up. It is designed to allow the engine to be spun over so the oil pump can pump out as much oil remaining in the engine as possible.
Running on the hose..........it seems we all got that. Limits are established by BRP/Rotax but it's more like these are the safe limits. It doesn't mean if you run it for 5 minutes and 10 seconds, that the extra 10 seconds will damage the motor.
With the closed loop cooling, the ride plate is the heat exchanger, like the radiator of your car. But instead of air blowing across the coils you have water surrounding it as it moves through the ride plate in a circular design to release the heat of the coolant.
The manual points out the shaft seal being a major concern in reasons of limiting the amount of time you run the motor. And of course, like the fan of a radiator, if it quits turning, it will eventually cause you to run hot. Same with the water flow. No water flow over the ride plate and you eventually run hot.
I was reading this post since it's an older one that has come back up front and noticed in post #3, step #4 that you say to crank the engine for 10 seconds but don't start. I almost edited but after realizing it was older, I kept reading to see what was new..........and what I wanted to edit is what you made new........
The "drown mode" is activated when you open the throttle all the way up. It is designed to allow the engine to be spun over so the oil pump can pump out as much oil remaining in the engine as possible.
Running on the hose..........it seems we all got that. Limits are established by BRP/Rotax but it's more like these are the safe limits. It doesn't mean if you run it for 5 minutes and 10 seconds, that the extra 10 seconds will damage the motor.
With the closed loop cooling, the ride plate is the heat exchanger, like the radiator of your car. But instead of air blowing across the coils you have water surrounding it as it moves through the ride plate in a circular design to release the heat of the coolant.
The manual points out the shaft seal being a major concern in reasons of limiting the amount of time you run the motor. And of course, like the fan of a radiator, if it quits turning, it will eventually cause you to run hot. Same with the water flow. No water flow over the ride plate and you eventually run hot.
Last edited by a moderator:
sporsterjoel
New Member
thanks for the info first time ive heard of drown mode....:cheers:
In post #10 of this thread, I quote from the manual of the procedure.
Karl
Karl
Typing!......
I bet it killed you to type all that out!................:rofl:
I bet it killed you to type all that out!................:rofl:
Na, I type 75 words a minute...some you can read too.
Karl
Karl
seadooeric
New Member
You guys are great. Followed the steps above and saved a ton of money by not going to the dealer. Thanks again! Seems like I was able to remove about 3.5 liters on both watercrafts (07 RXP 215 and 07 GTI 130).
Eric
Eric
Trapperdog
New Member
I am a new owner of two 2008 GTI SE 155's. They were only used 20 hours this season and since last oil change. Do I need to still change the oil and filter with so little use? If yes, should I do it now or in spring? Also, could someone direct me to the thread or link me to a website that discusses how to winterize these non-sc units? Thanks!
Trapper,
I also own two 09/130 GTI's and even though I have a similar amount of hours on them this summer it is a good practice to change out the oil before storage. Other than that, that is all that is actually required besides ensuring the coolant in the closed cooling system is checked with a hydrometer.
jim
I also own two 09/130 GTI's and even though I have a similar amount of hours on them this summer it is a good practice to change out the oil before storage. Other than that, that is all that is actually required besides ensuring the coolant in the closed cooling system is checked with a hydrometer.
jim
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