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Fuel line meltdown.

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LindaP

New Member
Well Hello Again,
I just took my newly rebuilt challenger out for its 1st run
since its rebuild. I didn't even make it passed the no
wake zone when the motor stopped and smoke billowed
out from its compartment. When the smoke cleared I
could see two things wrong. One of the carb fuel lines
had melted against the exhaust header and was leaking
gas into the bilge, also the 1/4in. line:confused: from the exhaust
tube to the bleed outlet had melted off its connection. I had a purple fuel line on the carbs. I am lucky there was no fire or explosion. My question is, can I replace all of
the gas tubes with a heater hose for safety, or what do
you recommend? Do you have any idea why the water stream tube melted? The cooling lines are routed like the
manual with one exception, the pressure zone thru hull into the pump is not connected and is filled with silicone.
Sorry for the lengthy description.
Please help, I am very leary now after this scare.
Thanks, LindaP
 
Water regulator....

If your water regulator isn't working properly, then the heat from the exhaust could have melted the hose.
You can't use heater hose for fuel hose. You need to use fuel line, the equivalent size of the line your removing.
If your fuel line melted because it was on your exhaust manifold, then you likely have blockage in either the water jacket of the exhaust system or the water regulator on the resonator isn't working. This means, the possibility of engine damage could occur.
 
You are lucky! The purple line you used was Tygon-type tubing, I guess? Use nylon-reinforced fuel line (available at most auto parts/hardware stores by the foot). It looks like heater hose, but it is compatible with gasoline. Pay close attention to routing the lines so they cannot touch any parts of the exhaust. Same goes for the bleed line that melted. Ditto on the water flow check Skatman recommends.
 
Linda, check the water regulator that is on the exhaust resonator,(it looks like a RAVE valve body). I would take it apart and see if it i has a blockage. The water regulator allows water to flow to the cylinder head and the exhaust directly. Be sure to re-attach the lines in the order in which they came off. In the bottom of the regulator valve is a tapered needle. Check the adjust of it,(how many turns to seat it like carb screws) than remove it and clean it out too. Replace it to the exact adjustment. The top red plastic screw shouldn't be tampered with as it is set at the factory. I have the factory adjustment if it does get tampered with. Re install it and it should be good to go. Let me know what the tapered needle setting was, as I have another member that removed his and didn't check the turns, for adjustment. Keep us posted.

Karl
 
I tampered with the regulator settings.

Hi All,
Yes, I did change the setting on the water regulator prior
to my fuel line melting. It had a small leak at the fitting
so for some reason, after I repaired the leak, I adjusted it
to even with the regulator body.:ack:
Karl, I need to take you up on the adjustment procedure
you have, thankfully.
LindaP
 
Here it is Linda. If I can help with anything else let me know.

Water Flow Regulator Valve;

The water flow regulator has been calibrated at the factory and should not be tampered with or modified in any way.
CAUTION: Strictly adhere to the calibration procedure or otherwise serious engine damage will occur.
If engine does not maintain RPM or the engine is experiencing poor performance, the water flow regulator valve might be out of adjustment. The normal adjustment as done at the factory is as follows: On the top of the water flow regulator valve locate the red plastic adjustment screw. Mark the location of the screw with a dab of paint for reference. Turn the screw clockwise (tighten) until the top edge of the screw is flush with the top of the black cap. Turn the screw 2 clicks counterclockwise (loosen). This is the factory spring setting. The bottom tapered screw should be screwed in just snug.

Karl
 
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