doberdann1019
New Member
where did you buy the seat cover from? Also, did you use the same foam from the stock seat?
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First Seadoo - always loved this model
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s14unimog
New Member
This company...
http://mline.us/
The cover was installed directly on top of mine existing one. It was uggly but not damaged. If I could go back, I would have removed the cover. That was a decision my installer made without me...
doberdann1019
New Member
Thanks, I think I am going to buy this seat cover, will most likely install myself.
s14unimog
New Member
Right on. It held up great all last season. I can't wait until I can drag her back out this year!
The Mlines are very nice. Not as nice as Jettrim, but nice.
s14unimog
New Member
Yeah, they look it. They don't carry one for the XP though....
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
i believe they do... i'm too lazy to check the website, but I'm 99% sure I've ordered at least one Jettrim seat for a 97.
not that it matters, the mline are good quality.
I rank them Jettrim, Mline, then (insert brand here) then, Blacktip.
edit: I decided to check the website to be sure.. they definately do...
s14unimog
New Member
Yeah, no worries. Right on, I couldn't find it on their website; seems I'm missing something.
javier1
New Member
Well your S14 which I think is what you made the conversion to clearly has work done to it. So I must ask... RB20 or SR20 
? I'm sure you didn't keep the KA24 unless you want that car for drifting that is. 2.4 liters is a great thing for drifting. Torque=drifting and big engines=torque!
? I'm sure you didn't keep the KA24 unless you want that car for drifting that is. 2.4 liters is a great thing for drifting. Torque=drifting and big engines=torque!
s14unimog
New Member
Well your S14 which I think is what you made the conversion to clearly has work done to it. So I must ask... RB20 or SR20
Ya man, that car has been a labor of love. The motor is an SR20. I use the car primarily for drifting but with the occasional road track events. The SR20 is great for drifting but so are the others; the torque output is subjective to the tune and build for all motor platforms. I've boosted the KA and ran it for just over 2yrs; they're great too. It's all about what you're into. They all have advantages and drawbacks.
In other news, I did sell the XP this season and for a decent price at $2500. It was a blast having one of these models but I've learned a lot about its draw backs. It's just a bit too large to do many stunts yet too small for comfortable 2 person riding. You can pretty much only knee board behind them also, but even that I find is difficult to not go too fast. It's really an excellent model to test the idea of having a true play only seadoo. I probably won't own another one but that's not to speak down about it. It was a great experience and I learned a ton. Next PWC will be a standup for sure.
I hope this build helps answer questions people may have about these models and remains a resource on this forum. Until my next PWC; thanks SeadooForums!
s14unimog
New Member
... a quick note to add. After pulling the XP out from storage before this past season, I noticed the fuel sending unit wasn't working. At first I thought it was just b/c I practically ran it out of fuel but na, it wasn't. So I looked around and ran into it being an all too popular issue with Seadoos in general - not necessarily the XP. The obvious route for a dealer replacement was a no go after I found out that it was over $200 to replace. No thanks. After a little research therafter, it was clear what the problem was. So to save on excessive write-ups on this problem, I'm just going to confirm the issue was in fact only due to the swollen 5amp microfuse soldered to the main PCB. It had not blown but the plastic had rather given up to the constant exposure to fuel and vapor. The circuit is apparently protected within the MPEM and so in fact a redundancy required by the manufacture that produced them for Seadoo. Here are some pictures for any one interested in repairing theirs.
The sending unit as it sits.
Where to cut for repairs - notice which side I'm cutting on. This is very important and you could breach the pickup tubes. As viewed from the bottom.
De-solder that 5 amp microfuse with an iron and bridge the gap with more solder. Be careful not to excessively heat those contacts.
Notice how I cut this piece out. Do the sides in line with the center line of the tube as so to leave a platform for the piece to be sat back on. In all reality you don't have to put this piece back in. This area is supposed to see equal fuel height in the tank and is submersed under normal operation. Plus, you are not breaching the floats channel, so there is no concern for it coming out... I guess I just put it back b/c I had my iron handy.
Boom; works.
The sending unit as it sits.
Where to cut for repairs - notice which side I'm cutting on. This is very important and you could breach the pickup tubes. As viewed from the bottom.
De-solder that 5 amp microfuse with an iron and bridge the gap with more solder. Be careful not to excessively heat those contacts.
Notice how I cut this piece out. Do the sides in line with the center line of the tube as so to leave a platform for the piece to be sat back on. In all reality you don't have to put this piece back in. This area is supposed to see equal fuel height in the tank and is submersed under normal operation. Plus, you are not breaching the floats channel, so there is no concern for it coming out... I guess I just put it back b/c I had my iron handy.
Boom; works.
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