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excessive smoke

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Did you follow the book?

Did you disconnect the tan/black wires at the port temp sender?


This issue forced me to look over the wiring... and it's interesting. The port temp sender is directly connected to the the TPS. That's how it adjusts the fuel. It basically moves the TPS value, to "lie" about where it's at.
 
Dr Honda said:
Did you follow the book?

Did you disconnect the tan/black wires at the port temp sender?


This issue forced me to look over the wiring... and it's interesting. The port temp sender is directly connected to the the TPS. That's how it adjusts the fuel. It basically moves the TPS value, to "lie" about where it's at.
Click to expand...

yes but since i dont have the test lead assembly i guess i cant do the test unless i make my own? thats probably whats screwing it up i was reading tight off the tps connector
 
500whp335i said:
yes but since i dont have the test lead assembly i guess i cant do the test unless i make my own? thats probably whats screwing it up i was reading tight off the tps connector
Click to expand...

Then how did you do it? The TPS has to be hooked up, and the system turned on.

Yes... you should be able to make your own leads... but in a situation like this... I push pins though the wire jacket to read the voltage. (basically, it's a wire tap)
 
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Dr Honda said:
Then how did you do it? The TPS has to be hooked up, and the system turned on.

Yes... you should be able to make your own leads... but in a situation like this... I push pins though the wire jacket to read the voltage. (basically, it a wire tap)
Click to expand...

i was just reading the voltage off the tps sensor...ok im an electrician so i should be able to do this lol... ill report back tmrw
 
Ok so as it sat the meter was reading 3.4v at idle.. I adjusted it as far down as I could 1.6ish vdc at idle and 3.8ish vdc at wot
 
500whp335i said:
Ok so as it sat the meter was reading 3.4v at idle.. I adjusted it as far down as I could 1.6ish vdc at idle and 3.8ish vdc at wot
Click to expand...

after playing with the throttle and watching the meter at the same time the lowest value at idle i could get was 2.2ish vdc and high 3's at wot... so im assuming my tps is bad.. i was metering between the blue and brown/ black striped wire
 
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The engine doesn't have to be running, but the key needs to be in the run position.

Also... did you disconnect the temp sender on the Port side?

I'll have to go back and check... but I think the low voltage should be 0.200v to 0.300v. And, the high reading was 7.46v.



If you are seeing 1.6v at idle... that would make you run SUPER rich.
 
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Yes temp sensor disconnected, key in run... It is the temp sensor with 3 wires two brown and black strip and one brown and blue strip
 
at the end of the day the sensor wasnt working, it wouldnt react to throttle position just stayed at 2.2v.. i bolted everything back up fired it up and it smoked like crazy i tried adjusting the tps while the boat was running to make sure i just wasnt metering it wrong and no matter where i turned the tps it smoked the same.. seems to me like a faulty tps
 
Yep... Boats.net normally has the best price.

I just checked ebay, and didn't see one.

We may need to figure out if there is something else that may work. Even if I have to machine an adapter... that TPS has to be on another engine somewhere.
 
im going to slit open the wires on the tps tmrw also so i can be 100 percent sure i have a good connection between the sensor wires and the other connector wires...
 
Thanks. That would be good.

The wife had a dumb movie on last night... so I dig around, and found some interesting TPS unit's to look at.

1) 90's Jeep. It has the wires hanging off, and is close to the same housing. (about $40)

2) Late 90's honda. Has the nice mounting tabs that allow it to be adjustable. (about $30)

3) The Merc DFI TPS. It crosses to the newer outboards also. AND... there is a possibility that it has the same internal value since it's from a Merc engine. The problem with that one is that it's a TOTALLY different housing. BUT... it's $80 or less, and if it's "Electrically" correct... I'm sure I could machine an adapter that would be $30 or less. (that would turn it into a $100 option)



Regardless... with the TPS being around $500... that leaves us a lot of room for experimentation. (I can't imagine why it's so expensive when automotive units are in the $50 range)



One last thought........


I'm not sure that the engine would run if the TPS was bad. So, just for giggles try 2 tests when you take it off.


1) Try to throttle up the engine, with the TPS off the throttle body, but still hooked up to the wires. (I want to see if the engine will rev if there is no change in the TPS)

2) Try to start the engine with the TPS disconnected.
 
Dr Honda said:
Thanks. That would be good.

The wife had a dumb movie on last night... so I dig around, and found some interesting TPS unit's to look at.

1) 90's Jeep. It has the wires hanging off, and is close to the same housing. (about $40)

2) Late 90's honda. Has the nice mounting tabs that allow it to be adjustable. (about $30)

3) The Merc DFI TPS. It crosses to the newer outboards also. AND... there is a possibility that it has the same internal value since it's from a Merc engine. The problem with that one is that it's a TOTALLY different housing. BUT... it's $80 or less, and if it's "Electrically" correct... I'm sure I could machine an adapter that would be $30 or less. (that would turn it into a $100 option)



Regardless... with the TPS being around $500... that leaves us a lot of room for experimentation. (I can't imagine why it's so expensive when automotive units are in the $50 range)



One last thought........


I'm not sure that the engine would run if the TPS was bad. So, just for giggles try 2 tests when you take it off.


1) Try to throttle up the engine, with the TPS off the throttle body, but still hooked up to the wires. (I want to see if the engine will rev if there is no change in the TPS)

2) Try to start the engine with the TPS disconnected.
Click to expand...

ok about to go out there now ill report back... do you know off hand what the part # is for the intake lifter pump and that whole assembly? my fuel gauge doesnt work and checked what i was suppose to, i dont feel like cutting it open to fix the f1 fuse ill just buy a new piece... i cant find it on boats.net
 
Dr Honda said:
Thanks. That would be good.

The wife had a dumb movie on last night... so I dig around, and found some interesting TPS unit's to look at.

1) 90's Jeep. It has the wires hanging off, and is close to the same housing. (about $40)

2) Late 90's honda. Has the nice mounting tabs that allow it to be adjustable. (about $30)

3) The Merc DFI TPS. It crosses to the newer outboards also. AND... there is a possibility that it has the same internal value since it's from a Merc engine. The problem with that one is that it's a TOTALLY different housing. BUT... it's $80 or less, and if it's "Electrically" correct... I'm sure I could machine an adapter that would be $30 or less. (that would turn it into a $100 option)



Regardless... with the TPS being around $500... that leaves us a lot of room for experimentation. (I can't imagine why it's so expensive when automotive units are in the $50 range)



One last thought........


I'm not sure that the engine would run if the TPS was bad. So, just for giggles try 2 tests when you take it off.


1) Try to throttle up the engine, with the TPS off the throttle body, but still hooked up to the wires. (I want to see if the engine will rev if there is no change in the TPS)

2) Try to start the engine with the TPS disconnected.
Click to expand...

ok
1) with the tps connected but off the throttle body assembly the motor revs just fine, maybe because mine is constantly at 2.2ish vdc
2) motor will start and rev the same as before, no warning beeps or anything.. didnt run it long since its smoking like crazy lol

and here is the pic you requested
 

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  • tps.jpg
    tps.jpg
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Thanks for the pic. The rotation post is backward from most... but an adaptor can be made for that too.


As far as the fuel sender... that's a seadoo part... so Boats.net won't have it.


The lift pump # is 852521T 1. I know there are a few of them on ebay. But, I'm not sure I'm reading the question right. The lift pump has nothing to do with the fuel sender, F1 fuse, or the gauge.


I guess the engine can run solely off the MAP sender, but you would think that it would trigger an error if it was disconnected.
 
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