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DI Seadoo Fuel Pump

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DooWacka

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It seems that as the Seadoo Direct Injection (DI) units are aging, we see more problems with the fuel pump.
The DI watercraft series are truly amazing performers when they are running properly!!
So, this post is to poke the “grey beards” or just “folks who know” to gain knowledge about alternatives to paying Bombardier about $700-$800 for a new fuel pump module.

I have four 2001 GTX DI watercraft, and two have this problem. I have built a Seadoo type fuel pressure tester, so can do all the tests they describe in the manual. The two pumps that have gone out where intermittent as many have described, where it runs for awhile then dies, then maybe restarts after awhile, to run well until t he next failure after varying lengths of time. To diagnose this intermittent failure it helps to have the gauge installed while riding, so you can observe the fuel pressure drop before it sputters or completely dies.

I replaced one DI pump with the Walbro GSS-342, and used very slight modifications allowing the same pump “mounting” and “sliding seal” so the fuel sender module springs compress the same. This unit has been working fine, so I did the same fuel pump replacement to the second DI, which operates fine, but uses more current to run the pump so the battery won’t charge.
Apparently, I got lucky with the first pump replacement since it draws “only” about 12 amps current (12A) instead of 14.5A for the non-charging DI. Since the Rectifier/Regulator can only put out about 18-20A at higher rpm, the fuel pump is using 14.5A, the rest of the electronics (MPEM, injectors, etc.) uses most of the rest, with the leftover current available to charge the battery.
In my “working” unit, since the pump only draws 12A, the battery seems to be charging with 1 to 2A, which isn’t much but it works. The other unit draws 14.5A, so the battery actually discharges, to help with the system power requirements, which leads to MAINT, beeping, and eventually sputtering and shut-down.

Testing on the DI units that still have the OE fuel pump reveal:
The fuel pump draws only 2A to charge the rail to 27psi upon placing the DESS key on the post.
The pump draws about 4A when running at 107psi pump pressure, and up to about 5A at higher rpms.
The battery is charging at about a 4A rate.
The measured system current draw from the Rec/Reg is only 7-10A, depending on rpm.
(The Rec/Reg current will definitely vary depending upon the battery state of charge and the system demands.)

My feeling is that even if I get lucky and purchase another pump that only uses 12A, the load on the Rec/Reg would probably cause regular failures and Rec/Reg replacements.

The reason I chose the GSS-342 as a replacement fuel pump was the published info from TIAutomotive.com (Walbro’s performance pump group) which indicated it can do the pressures needed in the DI Seadoos.
I declined to look further at the HighFlowFuel.com HFP-342 pump, since they didn’t list pressures high enough in their testing.
However, now I understand the HFP-342 is being recommended as a replacement pump on this forum.
So, apparently the pressure is high enough, but the current draw is listed as basically the same as the GSS-342, drawing 14A+ at 107psi.

My Questions:
Who has actually installed the HFP-342 on a DI, and are running successfully?
Has anyone measured the current drawn by the fuel pump, and at what rate are they charging the battery?
How much current is drawn from the Rectifier/Regulator, and have they had to replace it very often?
Or, have you had to replace the stator?


The OE fuel pump from my 2001 GTX DI has E1067 stamped on the side. I’ve spoken with Bosch and they say it is not a Bosch pump. It is an Airtex pump. I’ve spoken with Airtex technical support. The E1067 part number is apparently a Bombardier number, and the Airtex number for this pump is E11002. http://173.14.177.149/autopartimages/AIR/E11002-1.jpg Airtex no longer makes this pump. According to the technical contact, who was looking at the blueprint, Airtex apparently designed this high pressure yet low current pump for Bombardier and apparently Bombardier owns the patent. According to him, this “efficient” pump design probably uses a different (greater?) number of armature windings, and possibly more powerful magnets to get the performance. Normal automotive uses don’t require the low power and high pressure, so they don’t use that design elsewhere. Airtex makes a large number of pumps that look very similar to the DI Seadoo pump, with the same gold color and outlet port, yet none work at 107psi only drawing 4A. The tech rep said any of their pumps that go to 107psi will draw at least 14A. That means the Airtex E8446, E8248, and E8228 all would work but all draw at least 14A+. The jetworks in the UK (thejetworks.co.uk) is the only place I see online that MIGHT have an OE pump, according to their picture. http://www.thejetworks.co.uk/shop/jetworks-direct-injection-series-in-tank-fuel-pump-p-295.html?osCsid=b05c0d0dec242fad3aebbabfda948f63 However, they only say a “replacement” and emails I’ve sent asking more about the pumps and if it is OE, have all gone un-answered. So, I can only assume they are charging a pricey $417 plus shipping for a non OE pump and kit that could have the same potential problems.


My Further Questions:
Has anyone seen the fuel pump in the NEW $700 Seadoo replacement fuel module (275500641)?
Since Seadoo no longer makes the DI, but still sells replacement fuel pump modules, who is making the pump for them?
If the NEW pump is the same E1067, then are they working from their inventory only?

I am sure there are many of us that are very interested in answers to these questions, and we look forward to your responses.
THANKS!!
 
Hi

Did you ever suceed in getting an alternative pump working? I have a similar issue with the fuel pump and cannot find one anywhere.
 
Realistically... you just need an automotive pump that can deliver +100 psi all the time. You may want to call Airtex and see what they have.
 
I did (as I said) get a Walbro GSS-342 pump working. I feel that it was somewhat "lucky" since I got a pump that only draws about 12A, so the Rec/Reg still has some power left to charge the battery. If a pump draws to much power, then you get the periodic Beeping warning from the MPEM indicating the battery isn't charging.

Apparently some forum members have used the HFP-342 with good results. I have purchased one of these from HighFlowFuel.com and will try it this spring. The same thing needs to happen about "getting lucky" with a low current demanding pump. My original long post back in October was supposed to lay out all that I had learned, and solicit responses from folks that may know more or have additional experiences. No one that has used the HFP-342 has responded with anything (success or otherwise).

I have spoken with people at Airtex and they say all their pumps that meet the pressure requirement will draw about 15A+, so that doesn't seem to be a solution.

The nice thing about the GSS-342 and HFP-342 is that they can be installed in the same configuration as the OE pump and therefore use the foot-valve and "reservoir" just as Bombardier designed.
 
contact this guy about fuel pump overhaul, he gave me all the right part numbers last year for my rfi, bosch pump, and 2 airtex filters - (screens), all fit like a glove -- worked just fine --- Bills86e -- bill i think has it all stored in a link somewhere, i just cant seem to find it
 
Griz - your RFI fuel pump only requires 60 psi, not the 107 psi needed for the DI (direct injection) models. There are many automotive pumps that can give 60 psi, but very few that can give 107 psi.

You said "contact this guy" but I don't see a link or any info to tell which guy -- could you provide that?

I would be interested in the part numbers and source for the two Airtex filter screens, since they appear to be the same as the DI filters.
I would also like to look at the link if you, Bill, or someone can find it.
 
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Sabr - you raise an interesting point about beefing up the charging system. I assume you would need a custom wound stator to get the increased output. Since you don't need a lot more (maybe an extra 2A), perhaps someone knows how that might be done.
 
Just a thought. I mean, you need more amps, and this thing spins at 7k. it would put a slightly higher load on the engine, but not much more than say an extra 5 lbs on the ski would... I don't do custom designs or whatever, but the DIs do output quite a lot of power. I would examine the carb ski setup vs the DI ski and see what's different, then design one that puts out a bit more power, the system should take it since your sucking down that power any way...

you could always just slap a 'high output' battery in there. then even if it does have a slow discharge, u should still get a full day, and re-charge it over night.
 
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Just a thought. I mean, you need more amps, and this thing spins at 7k. it would put a slightly higher load on the engine, but not much more than say an extra 5 lbs on the ski would... I don't do custom designs or whatever, but the DIs do output quite a lot of power. I would examine the carb ski setup vs the DI ski and see what's different, then design one that puts out a bit more power, the system should take it since your sucking down that power any way...

you could always just slap a 'high output' battery in there. then even if it does have a slow discharge, u should still get a full day, and re-charge it over night.

This is exactly what I was wondering about. If I use a automotive pump I wouldnt mind charging overnight every time I go out (only twice a month anyway). The question is wont the regulator get damaged?.
 
I did (as I said) get a Walbro GSS-342 pump working. I feel that it was somewhat "lucky" since I got a pump that only draws about 12A, so the Rec/Reg still has some power left to charge the battery. If a pump draws to much power, then you get the periodic Beeping warning from the MPEM indicating the battery isn't charging.

Apparently some forum members have used the HFP-342 with good results. I have purchased one of these from HighFlowFuel.com and will try it this spring. The same thing needs to happen about "getting lucky" with a low current demanding pump. My original long post back in October was supposed to lay out all that I had learned, and solicit responses from folks that may know more or have additional experiences. No one that has used the HFP-342 has responded with anything (success or otherwise).

I have spoken with people at Airtex and they say all their pumps that meet the pressure requirement will draw about 15A+, so that doesn't seem to be a solution.

The nice thing about the GSS-342 and HFP-342 is that they can be installed in the same configuration as the OE pump and therefore use the foot-valve and "reservoir" just as Bombardier designed.

I found a HFP-342 in South Africa and I am going to try this. have you got any pics on the modification you did to get the pump in the fuel assembly? Is this the pump you used? http://www.mrturbo.co.za/index.php?...ion=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1
 
This is exactly what I was wondering about. If I use a automotive pump I wouldnt mind charging overnight every time I go out (only twice a month anyway). The question is wont the regulator get damaged?.

There are two things about this solution. First, you would have to disable the "buzzer/beeper" since the MPEM would still see the battery is not getting charge, and the noise would eventually drive you nuts. Then of course you wouldn't get beeper warnings for other problems.
Second, the regulator could get damaged much sooner. These DI go through Rec/Regs more quickly anyway even with the 5A OEM pump, so these 14A pumps should stress them even further. This is why I was asking for input from the people that have many hours on a conversion like this. My GSS-342 conversion only has a few hours so far, and I have yet to build my HFP-342 conversion.
 
I found a HFP-342 in South Africa and I am going to try this. have you got any pics on the modification you did to get the pump in the fuel assembly? Is this the pump you used? http://www.mrturbo.co.za/index.php?...ion=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1
I don't have pics yet. I plan on taking some for the HFP-342 conversion.
There are many pumps, even cheap Chinese knock-offs, that have the same look as in the picture shown in your link.
The spec says 6 Bar which is only 87 psi, so the pump may not reach the 107 psi needed.
Here is a link for the several kits with the Walbro GSS-342 pump.
http://www.highflowfuel.com/search.html?q=GSS-342&go=Search
And here is the same for the High Flow HFP-342 pump.
http://www.highflowfuel.com/search.html?q=HFP-342&go=Search
Here is one of the specific HFP-342 kits showing the pressure/flow tables.
http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-4783228-hfp-255lph-fuel-pump-acura-cl-1997-2003.html
They stop testing above 100 psi since automobiles don't need those pressures, however, the pump does go higher.
 
Thanks for the reply. I already ordered this one as its the only one I could find. The sales guy said its a replacement for a GSS-342 and I assumed it was the right one. I am going to try this next week and see how it runns as I am running out of time fast.
 
DI fuel pump replacement Guide

Since you are doing this right away, here are some tips and pics to try and help.

First you need to have more than just the pump. Hopefully they will also send the pump electrical connector, some fuel proof hose, hose clamps, and fuel proof electrical crimp connectors.

You need fuel proof hose with at least close to SAE J30R10 specs since the R9 standard available hose will eventually turn to mush when immersed in fuel.

You can either fabricate your own pump electrical connector, or if they give you an already made connector, you can use the fuel proof crimp connectors to patch it into the OE electrical harness after cutting the wires close to the OE pump. Observe the correct polarity.

Some good news is that the new pump inlet port is just the right size to plug into the OE inner filter screen. You can clean and re-use the OE inner and outer filter screens, since I doubt you can find new replacements in time.

Customize the length of the R10 hose to achieve the length of the OE pump which has a longer neck. I modified a female brass barbed connector thread to screw onto the OE aluminum "sliding seal" tube. This allows you to still use the OE sliding-seal spring loaded system, which will keep the pump assembly inlet always on the bottom of the tank.

Here is an "exploded view" pic of the OE pump (below) and the new pump (above) with electrical connector, hose, and modified brass barb fitting screwed onto aluminum support for the sliding seal.
FP exploded 1.JPG

Here is a closer view of the interesting parts. I used Oetiker clamps instead of standard screw on hose clamps.FP exploded 2.JPG

Here is a view of the hose fitted together showing the length has been made the same as the OE pump. Note the inner filter screen is now attached to the new pump inlet port.
FP length comparison.JPG

This view shows the pump and inner filter plugged into the bottom of the reservoir. There is both a metal and a rubber disc that need to be re-installed before inserting the inner filter. These make up the "foot valve" of the assembly. This pump assembly is designed to pull fuel up from the very bottom of the tank, and also the returned fuel from the fuel rail is deposited into the aluminum reservoir where the two sided inner filter can also supply it to the pump inlet.
FP in reservoir.JPG

This shows the modified OE plastic pump support installed. Since the new pump inlet and outlet ports are offset from the center, flip the white plastic support over (the hole in the plastic is offset), and slightly enlarge (grind) the hole to better fit the new pump. Note the modified white plastic support now stabilizes the new pump, as it did for the OE pump.
FP with plastic support.JPG

Now you just need to re-install the spring on the aluminum sliding-seal support, plug in the wiring, and snap the top assembly clips back on. Re-install the rebuilt fuel pump assembly and hope it doesn't draw to much power, or the MPEM will beep warnings every minute or so.

When it works, it feels good to re-use all of the Seadoo advanced design features like the spring loaded sliding-seal, the foot valve, and the collection reservoir. It can all be done with very little modification to the OE pump assembly.
 
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Got my pump today. Going to try it tonight and let you know how it works

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gideon, that pump looks like the 4tec pump. are you sure it can put out over 100psi? the 4tecs only use 44psi for NA or SC to 185hp and 58psi for SCIC 215hp.
 
gideon, that pump looks like the 4tec pump. are you sure it can put out over 100psi? the 4tecs only use 44psi for NA or SC to 185hp and 58psi for SCIC 215hp.

I hope! Sales guy said it was the same as the WalbroGSS-342 and this is a FP342 ,also said that it would go over 100psi. I will check tonight :confused:
 
A lot of these pumps look the same from the outside.
If it can't achieve at least about 95 psi, then it won't even start.
The short piece of rubber hose you are using doesn't even look like R9 rated hose let alone R10.
It looks like very thin standard fuel line, not even high pressure line for fuel injection.
Good luck, I hope it works for you.
 
A lot of these pumps look the same from the outside.
If it can't achieve at least about 95 psi, then it won't even start.
The short piece of rubber hose you are using doesn't even look like R9 rated hose let alone R10.
It looks like very thin standard fuel line, not even high pressure line for fuel injection.
Good luck, I hope it works for you.

Nope! Started for about 2min and stopped. Pump not reaching the pressure required.:( Will keep searching. :toetap05:
 
Nope! Started for about 2min and stopped. Pump not reaching the pressure required.:( Will keep searching. :toetap05:

There are a couple of points here.

If it started and ran for that long (2 minutes), then maybe the pressure is fine but you had the hose or a connection fail. A hose failure would seem likely to me, given the wimpy looking hose shown in your picture.

Secondly, the spring loaded bypass valve visible on the top of most of these pumps could be "spewing". When a bypass spring functions, it is often made easier for it to function at a lower pressure. The original BRP fuel pumps had no bypass for protection, so I have tested them up to over 160 psi. If this bypass is failing, you can put a screw into the port and defeat it.

Unfortunately, to see if the fuel is squirting from the hose, a connection, or the bypass, you would need to create a "test rig" outside of the fuel tank. I have done this, but it does have the capability of being dangerous with gas fumes or squirting fuel.

Also, your picture looks like you didn't use a brass barbed connector, but instead just put the hose on the threaded portion of the aluminum sliding-seal tube. If this is correct, then you could have a leak right at that connection. Remember the pressure is the order of 100psi which can leak at places you wouldn't think of.
 
When you disassembled the module with your first attempt, was the hose still intact and not split? Or, did you see any other signs of failure?
In other words are you sure the pump failed and not connections or bypass valves?

Can you give a link to your new Krenek pump to see the specs?

It looks like the Krenek pump inlet and outlet ports are not aligned, which should make adaption to the module much more difficult. Did the supplier also sell a Krenek pump with aligned ports? For example, the Walbro GSS-342 has aligned ports, whereas the GSS-341 has offset ports but is otherwise the same.
 
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