IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
You're right on that. I actually do all the things you say, and have the manual open during every build. Forgot the two stage torque sequence tho. My bad. Don't forget to grease the shanks and apply the loctite
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
cylinder specs
- Thread starter NIL8er
- Start date
- Status
You're right on that. I actually do all the things you say, and have the manual open during every build. Forgot the two stage torque sequence tho. My bad. Don't forget to grease the shanks and apply the loctite
NIL8er
Active Member
yes but my question is am i ok with the 2mm total squish with the 6hole or do i NEED to drop down ???
Lets talk straight decimal from here on out. Your current squish is 0.078". You're 0.015" out of MAX spec (0.063").
3 hole gasket is 0.011"
4 hole gasket is 0.015"
5 hole gasket is 0.019"
6 hole gasket is 0.023"
You would need to run a 3 hole gasket to be just over the high end at 0.065"ish
See, isn't it just easier to use the decimals?
As 1of500 said are you measuring over the wristpin? What I like to do is rotate the crank to come up to TDC, the rotate CCW a 1/4 turn. Bend the solder in an arc and insert it into the spark plug hole and make sure it contacts the cylinder wall. Then SLOWLY rotate the crank back the CW until I just touch the solder, then CCW a hair and then a quick bump back CW past TDC.
3 hole gasket is 0.011"
4 hole gasket is 0.015"
5 hole gasket is 0.019"
6 hole gasket is 0.023"
You would need to run a 3 hole gasket to be just over the high end at 0.065"ish
See, isn't it just easier to use the decimals?
As 1of500 said are you measuring over the wristpin? What I like to do is rotate the crank to come up to TDC, the rotate CCW a 1/4 turn. Bend the solder in an arc and insert it into the spark plug hole and make sure it contacts the cylinder wall. Then SLOWLY rotate the crank back the CW until I just touch the solder, then CCW a hair and then a quick bump back CW past TDC.
NIL8er
Active Member
Gentlemen . i understand and know the limits and am obviously out of range, But do I NEED to drop down, i understand there may be a drop in performance but i can live with that if its not going to harm the motor or prematurely shorten the life etc. Ive read its ok to be over the limit some but not too short. Too small squish risk detonation, too large performance . Yes measured over wrist pin and both sides and to the edge of cylinder , proper torque values adhered to.etc.
NIL8er
Active Member
i know you probably think im being thick headed but , yes you were clear i needed a 3 hole , i understand that, just wasnt sure if i could get away with it the way it is being that its over not under specs. Thnx
1of500
Well-Known Member
Will it run? Probably. Will it run like shit? Most definitely. Tolerances are there for a reason, but you could always engineer your own engine from scratch and have whatever squish you want. The thing you need to realize is that you are wasting our time saying after we give the specs that I know it's not right but will it be ok. You originally acted as if you had no clue what the specs are. The way you conduct yourself on here will determine the amount of assistance you receive. Technically no one has to help you with anything.......
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
Your engine will run just fine, most people would never ever notice any difference. Sbt builds all their engines with a 5 hole gasket. So that tells me they might not even check it. Your ski will not run bad at all. It would probably run just fine as it is, but I would switch to a 3 hole.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
NIL8er
Active Member
Thank you. Again , your info is appreciated.
NIL8er
Active Member
my reason for interrogating further was to solicit an educated indepth answer for the sake of truly understanding beyond specs and yes /no answers. my machine is out of spec and i dont want to tear it apart again to change gasket if not ABSOLUTELY necessary and apparently its not. If this bothers you then so be it . obviously racerxxx gets it. Have a good day.:cheers:
NIL8er
Active Member
HELP!!! Why would the front combustion chamber be getting water in it. Not the back front ONLY?
NIL8er
Active Member
Checked it first. New. took heads off and they look fine. edited . i figured it out. hose with water flow regulator valve goes to the left side.
Last edited by a moderator:
NIL8er
Active Member
Yeah I'll do that. Thanks. Do people put any sealant between the halves where the water runs?
NIL8er
Active Member
compression 122 each cylinder
NIL8er
Active Member
its a cheap old guage too , my yamaha reads low too and does 55mph
NIL8er
Active Member
thats a start, thanks i did not do that , but why would the front be so flooded and rear dry except for lubrication
- Status
