cylinder specs

[NIL8er]

we'll see . i'll believe when the money is actually refunded. :facepalm:

ALright ...why wont my oil pump shaft reach the square fitting on the crank shaft about 2-3mm too short???WTF did i get wrong crank or am i doing something wrong?


btw got the full refund!!

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

The previous person may have used a puller that pushed the square key back into the crank. It should be flush with the end of the threaded part. I did this once. Fixed it by stuffing the hole full of jb weld, greasing the shaft of the oil pump drive shaft, and sticking it in there. It solidified perfectly and didn't stick to the grease at all. Worked just fine until the crank blew up

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[NIL8er]

The previous person may have used a puller that pushed the square key back into the crank. It should be flush with the end of the threaded part. I did this once. Fixed it by stuffing the hole full of jb weld, greasing the shaft of the oil pump drive shaft, and sticking it in there. It solidified perfectly and didn't stick to the grease at all. Worked just fine until the crank blew up

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so its not actually a part of the crank shaft? . maybe i can pull it out some??

 

[NIL8er]

so its not actually a part of the crank shaft? . maybe i can pull it out some??

yup its an insert, pulled it out then put back in flush!

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

Good to know, how would you go about pulling that it?

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[NIL8er]

used an easy out, its not threaded, just pressed in

 

[racerxxx]

Just so you guys know, they're not supposed to be flush. Something is wrong with your set up. The one crank in my pic is original (one on the box), the other one is NOS (the one in the cases). I'll bet your white pin snapped and won't engage.

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[1of500]

cant you update to the black one off the 951 it has fingers that go over the nut?

 

[racerxxx]

cant you update to the black one off the 951 it has fingers that go over the nut?

Yes, that is what I do in every 787 I build.

 

[NIL8er]

Not broken.The insert was pushed way in the shaft. Not suppose to be flush . I pushed it back like the one in the pic.

 

[1of500]

You will be better off updating to the newer style. The old style is prone to fall.

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[NIL8er]

You will be better off updating to the newer style. The old style is prone to fall.

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what is the new style

 

[NIL8er]

cant find torque values for cylinders? anyone know them ?

 

[NIL8er]

what is the new style

ill look it up!

 

[NIL8er]

Can't find it. Where can I get them?

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

I think the 10mm bolts are like 35ftlbs

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[1of500]

It's off a 951 I will get the part number when I get home

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[1of500]

I Was wrong

 

[NIL8er]

290837390 is the part number

Thanks. Who has them

 

[1of500]

10 bucks on eBay shipped

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[NIL8er]

10 bucks on eBay shipped

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Appreciate that but 10 bucks ??? I'll make one flanged out so it can't slide in and pressed in so it can't come out.

 

[racerxxx]

Here is the correct# 420837392 for the oil pump drive

 

[racerxxx]

I think the 10mm bolts are like 35ftlbs

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There is no THINKING LIKE in torque specs. Not to mention, you don't go right to max torque on your cylinders, it's a two stage torque process. First stage is 15 ft. lbs, second and final is 30 ft. lbs all in a criss-cross pattern for each cylinder WITH the exhaust manifold bolted up to align the cylinders. There is no half ass-ery in engine building if you want your stuff to hold together. I take building an engine very seriously, everything has to be 110%, every hole has to be tapped clean to obtain proper torque, no old chit in the threads. You just can't skip a step. Sorry to be harsh but I have to be truthful here.

 

[AdamXP800]

You da man Dan! Thank you!!!! Lol



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

 

[NIL8er]

There is no THINKING LIKE in torque specs. Not to mention, you don't go right to max torque on your cylinders, it's a two stage torque process. First stage is 15 ft. lbs, second and final is 30 ft. lbs all in a criss-cross pattern for each cylinder WITH the exhaust manifold bolted up to align the cylinders. There is no half ass-ery in engine building if you want your stuff to hold together. I take building an engine very seriously, everything has to be 110%, every hole has to be tapped clean to obtain proper torque, no old chit in the threads. You just can't skip a step. Sorry to be harsh but I have to be truthful here.

Good advice. I built many cast alluminum motors, and torquing and sequence is important for mating, warping issues as well as initial warm up/ cool down , break-in proceedures.