I just replaced the wear ring and changed a new solas impeller. The work was done by a local mechanic. Took my 2006 Seadoo sportster out in the lake today. It seems like the boat accelerates on , but runs very slow on lower RPMs. It seems like some significant cavitation might be the problem. It seems worse than what it was with my damaged prop. I checked the wear ring and the impeller and they seem to be fine. Any suggestions? Do you think it could be a simple adjustment or calibration?
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Cavitation after new impeller
- Thread starter Deepaks
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yes , it was bought through an authorized dealer who matched the part to the bots make and model. Again, the cavitation is subtle (20%) loss in power. Takes a little more power to do what the boat was doing before the impeller was replaced. Thank you
OK. The reason I asked is because your description is not clear as to whether it could just be some minor rpm changes or actual cavitation e.g. I changed to a skat trak once (now back on OEM) and it spun more freely. It was supposed to offer better acceleration but really just reved the motor more and took away top speed.
If it is actually cavitation and the pump clearances are correct, then it could be the seals on the jet pump shaft. Does the '06 have the plastic pump housing? I heard these can give issues too if they warp...
Thanks for the information Macster. I am kind of a new be so i could be wrong weather it is cavitation or rpm issues, i can try to describe it a little better. After the new impeller, the idle RPM is 2 X 1000 and the boat barely moves. It really starts moving at about 4 or 5 X 1000 RPM . The Peak acceleration gets me to a max speed of 35 ( used to hit 45 or a little higher before at a lower RPM). The engine seems to be a lot louder. To me it appears like what you would experience with cavitation. I am also worried if the higher RPM translates to more strain on the engine.
Assuming you put this impeller in your Challenger, the pitch is way wrong for that boat. You don't have the power to spin that much impeller on too end especially in that boat. You need something along the lines of a 13/18 but even that won't make a huge difference over stock even with the superior Solas design.
It is not uncommon for an aftermarket impeller to improve in one location (as in out of the hole or top end) but lose in another location.
This is what it sounds like to me that the problem is.
Seadoo has done a very good job at mating the impeller to the engine and the hull. It is not easy to beat the OEM performance in an all-around application, this is very true with the smaller engines and non-SC engines.
This is what it sounds like to me that the problem is.
Seadoo has done a very good job at mating the impeller to the engine and the hull. It is not easy to beat the OEM performance in an all-around application, this is very true with the smaller engines and non-SC engines.
It is recommended for a stock engine RXP. The 14/17 is recommended for the heavier RXT. Your boat is considerably heavier than both of those. For your application if stick with a factory pitch because that will give you the best of both worlds. The only time if upgrade an impeller is if you plan on modifying the engine for more power. Otherwise there's no real benefit as Joe mentioned, seadoo does a good job at matching the pitch to the engine output and craft size.
Some skis/applications can gain benefit across the board. But that is not the norm.
Skat seems to be better for the broad range as compared to Solas that seems to give out of the hole or top end, not normally both ends are improved.
The boats have a harder time at this compared to the skis. No one has really come up with much better than stock assuming that the engine is stock..
Skat seems to be better for the broad range as compared to Solas that seems to give out of the hole or top end, not normally both ends are improved.
The boats have a harder time at this compared to the skis. No one has really come up with much better than stock assuming that the engine is stock..
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I'd just go back to the original impeller if it wasn't torn up or distorted, it's almost impossible to know if it's distorted though, unless you can find a reputable rebuilder who really knows what they're doing.
I'd go back to the original if possible though, don't believe the hype, it can be an illusive search for a suitable replacement that gives equal performance, let alone superior performance.
I'd go back to the original if possible though, don't believe the hype, it can be an illusive search for a suitable replacement that gives equal performance, let alone superior performance.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
The correct impeller should be listed in your shop manual, there are probably a dozen different pitched impellers to chose from and even those with identical pitch can vary depending on how the profile is interpreted by the specific manufacturer but only one or maybe two will work properly. Original will work, the rest are just guessing and will be a compromise of some magnitude.
What happened to your original impeller, those can be refurbed.
Anyway, as a start, the "PARTS" icon in the upper right corner at the very top of this page can lead you to the parts listing for your boat(maybe), might take a little bit of navigating to get there.
What happened to your original impeller, those can be refurbed.
Anyway, as a start, the "PARTS" icon in the upper right corner at the very top of this page can lead you to the parts listing for your boat(maybe), might take a little bit of navigating to get there.
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