Can this boat be saved?

[Robj]

Go for it, that sounds pretty reasonable for the install. You should have it back in 2 weeks. I did buy the so called premium engine with a 2 year warranty but from another engine shop.

 

[howie099]

usually the engine has better parts in them, that is why the warranty is longer.

 

[Arkansan]

Thanks, Robj. That's what we're leaning toward. We'll be out of state the next two weekends anyway, but I would so love to have the boat back in time for my birthday on July 8!

 

[Robj]

You will also have to add shipping for your core to SBT and the new engine back. Still the best way to go if you cannot do it yourself.

Another important consideration, find out what caused the engine failure, and make sure the shop checks it over. Things to consider are the carb(s), fuel lines, and check to make sure the oil injection system is working properly. You would hate to have a new engine installed without rectifying what caused your original engine to fail, only to cause the new one to fail. The best thing about SBT is they have a no fault warranty.

Good luck.

 

[Arkansan]

Yes, we understand about the shipping costs and that the old one goes to SBT. I think that's a fantastic business plan. I'm a big believer in repair/reuse/recycle.

 

[El Toro 33809]

I have 2 of their 717 engines and they have been great. I didn't pop for the 2 year warranty. I live about an hour from their shop and travel to their area on business so I picked up my motors in person. They people at the shop were very nice.

Glad things are looking up for you, and I hope you get to enjoy a nice boat ride on your birthday.

 

[Arkansan]

In our last episode, I was fired by my mechanic for asking if a two-week delay in asking for a deposit would mean a two-week delay in getting my boat back. Now four more weeks have passed, and we finally have our '98 Sportster 1800 back from the second shop. It has a new (refurbished, I guess) 717 on the port side, and also what the bill calls a couvercle rotar and valve. The mechanic said a screw from the carb had come loose and been sucked into the engine causing all manner of damage. Even with the rotar and valve (about $275), the total cost was a bit less than the price quoted by the shop that ultimately fired me.

The shop manager said they tested it in his tank before we picked it up on Friday afternoon. When we got it to the lake Saturday afternoon, the new engine started right up, but the older one (which is not original -- it had been replaced at some point) gave us fits. Would. Not. Start. We finally primed it with starter fluid (which is a pain in the butt) and got it going, and everything was fine. After a few minutes, we stopped on the water not too far from the dock, stopped the engines and then tried to start them back up. Again, the new one fired right up but we ended up having to prime the old one again. After it started, it was fine. When we got back to the dock to go home, I tested again and both engines started up fine.

This morning, we took the boat back out. The new engine started right up, and the older one was contrary again -- even more contrary than yesterday. Starter fluid didn't work. My husband took the air filter off and poked around. Finally it did start. It would die at idle speed but start right back up again. When we got out of the no-wake zone and into the open water, it was great. Just great. Fun fun fun. We cruised for about an hour. When we got back to the no-wake zone, the old engine died at idle speed. But it would start right back up. Also started right up when we got it back to the house. So... we are soooooo close to having this thing running right, but I think we need to adjust the idle speed or maybe the fuel/air mixture. Suggestions are welcome...

 

[Seadoobuddy]

HI, On the older engine do you still have the gray tempo fuel line?
If so, then changed them ASAP, add an in-line fuel filter and clean the carb filters....actually clean these even if the fuel lines are not gray.

 

[Arkansan]

Buddy, I don't know the answer to that question, but I'll have my husband take a look. We are learning a lot about this Seadoo in a hurry! (Our first boat, which we still have, is a 1959 MFG runabout with its original 35hp Evinrude Lark outboard, so we aren't new to boating, but our experience has been completely different!) Where would we get a new fuel line and in-line filter? Are those readily available or do we have to order from Seadoo?

 

[howie099]

I would say you need the carb serviced on the older engine. Get it rebuilt with new rubbers and needle/seat ($60 in parts plus labor if you don't do it yourself). I doubt you have gray fuel lines except for the pulse line since we both have the same boat and none of my lines were changed when I bought is all OEM. The gray lines gum up and clog the carb since they are not ethenol approved. The lines are just 1/4 fuel lines and the aftermarket filter is a car fuel filter that is 1/4" they sell them at wal-mart for like $4 each it is a clear paper element type.

 

[Arkansan]

Well, actually, this carb was serviced by the first shop we took it to. Said the needle was just stuck. But also replaced a throttle cable. Then we took it back to that shop after the other engine died a thousand deaths, and that's when I got fired as a customer. And I hated to mention this... but several screws were missing from around the carb filter that we know were there when we bought the boat because we removed them (and put them all back!) when we were trying to get it started the very first time we had it out. Could it have been a screw from that carb (starboard) that got sucked into the port engine somehow? Could that first shop be the cause of our major troubles, by leaving some screws out?

 

[scski]

>Could that first shop be the cause of our major troubles, by leaving some screws out?

Only if the flame arrestor (wire screen mesh) came out could one of the screws made it into the carb.

 

[Arkansan]

Scski, that photo looks just like my husband this weekend!

 

[Arkansan]

Just checking in to say that we are getting closer to nirvana all the time. The older of the twin engines was dying while idling, so my husband adjusted the idle timing screw and now it idles at 1500 RPM without dying. This seems to be the proper idle speed for the 717. But the brand new engine idles (with no problems) at 500 RPM. It's no problem to get the two running at the same RPM when we're cruising, and both engines run and sound and feel fine out on the water. Will it hurt anything to let the new 717 idle at the slower speed? Does hubboid need to get back down in there and do something else?

 

[howie099]

The normal idle speed in water is suppose to be 1500 RPMs. The tach on the other engine might just be a bit off. If is runs fine I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[sea doo doo]

Lol arkansan, i took mine there and after 2500.00 they said they couldnt fix it. So, i went and got my boat and left. When i got home, i looked in the back of my boat and all my carb air box and stuff was laying in the back. also, cables to my carbs werent hooked back up. I called and asked shouldnt my boat be put back together at least? They told me to come bring it back and they would put it back together in the parking lot. Parking Lot? WTH? Anyway, i was having fuel delivery issues and i had to figure it out myself. It was as simple as a fuel selector valve. On their behalf, they did overhaul my carbs and change all the fuel lines. I wouldnt recommend them to anyone in arkansas.

 

[Arkansan]

Sea Doo Doo, do (ha!) you boat at Greers Ferry? Best lake ever. We were at our little house in Fairfield Bay this weekend, and the weather was finally nice enough to hang out on the deck, and I started itching to get back on the water. We drove down to the marina, and the water looked a little high.

 

[Arkansan]

Hey, it's me again. We put the '98 Sportster 1800 in the water this morning for the first time this season. (Very long, cool spring this year, plus we've been tied up getting a kid graduated from college.) To our delight, we were able to get going pretty quickly. We replaced one engine last year, and it started with no problems at all. The older engine needed some priming with starter fluid. They are running at considerably different speeds, and the new engine doesn't like to idle, so there may still be some carb adjustment needed. But all in all, it was an easy, enjoyable, non-frustrating start to the season. Considering all the frustration and unexpected expenses we had last season (our first after buying this boat), we are mighty relieved.

 

[Dr Honda]

Well... I'm glad it worked out in the end.

Don't get too hung up on the new engine yet. it needs to break in a little. After you put a few hr's on it... then adjust the idle, and verify the low needle settings. (start a new thread when it's time for carb tweaking)

 

[Guest_User]

WOW that was a horrific story, and how this shop is still in business today...

Glad you finally have it sorted! enjoy!