Can someone explain to me how the oil injection system works on my 97 XP?

[SeaDooGood]

I'm not the most mechanically inclined person to begin with (medical field) and I'm new to the whole Seadoo world. I picked up my first ski recently and I'm trying to become more familiar with it and do a lot of things myself to learn. I've attached a pic of the oil system diagram and was just wondering if someone could exlplain to me how it works. I also want to drain all the oil out and put some good low ash api PWC oil (XPS, Amasoil interceptor, etc...) so knowing how the system works will help. It looks like it has two oil injection hoses, one on the top (#14) coming off the nipple on the oil level sensor assembly (#8) and one below the tank coming off the LOWER nipple on the elbow fitting (#2) attached to the grommet (#3). So, is oil injected into the engine through BOTH of these hoses coming from the TOP and the BOTTOM of the oil tank? I see another hose (#19) coming off the TOP nipple of the elbow fitting (#2) attached to the grommet (#3) and it goes to the oil filter and then comes off the other side of the filter going to the oil pump. Excuse me for asking a dumb question here, but does this hose (#19) pump oil back OUT of the engine, through the filter, and back into the oil tank where it is then injected back into the engine through the hose on the top and bottom (LOWER nipple of elbow fitting)? Sorry, but I'm a bit confused and just trying to learn and understand the system. Lastly, I keep hearing people refer to the "rotary valve." Where is the rotary valve located and what is it's purpose? Thanks in advance for bearing with me!

 

[racerxxx]

The system is simple.

The oil in the tank is for 2 things, one is the oil injection system and the second is the lube the rotary valve shaft drive gear.


The oil line that has the oil filter (#20) goes to the oil pump. The other line connects to the engine and provides the oil to the rotary valve drive gears (one on the crankshaft the other on the rotary shaft). As the engine runs there is a little drive connector that spins the oil pump on the front of the engine. That oil pump injects oil into the engine in the manifold that the carbs are bolted to via the 2 small 3/32" oil lines. Between the engine and the manifold there is a disc, that is the rotary valve. As the engine turns so does the disc (driven from the crankshaft gear and rotary shaft), that disc is like a valve that opens and closes at the correct timing to allow gas and the injected oil and air into the bottom of that crankcase to be sucked into the cylinder to make the engine run. So back to the rotary shaft and crankshaft drive gear. The oil line that feeds that does just that, feeds it and the oil is just there like an oil bath, the outlet never pumps the oil back into the tank, it's more of a vent that goes back into the top of the tank via part #8. As the level gets low it will give you a low oil warning, usually a red light on your gas gauge with an oil can next to it. It's just like a heart kinda, without it pumping you ain't running for long.

Here is a larger pic of what you posted:









In between the 2 red seals is the rotary valve shaft drive gear on the crank. On the other side you can see the small brass drive gear on the rotary valve shaft. That spins the rotary valve.








The rotary vale goes on the center tooth drive gear and spins and covers and uncovers the 2 ports on either side.








If you look close enough thru the ports you can see the back port is blocked by the RV and the front port is only partially blocked.

 

[SeaDooGood]

So if I'm trying to empty the oil tank to replace the oil (TC-W3) with the correct oil, I don't need to fool with the hose going to the TOP of the tank...correct? Since that is just a "vent hose" and doesn't really transport any oil. Can I simply just clamp off the hose with the oil filter going to the oil pump and clamp off the other hose going to the rotary valve, then pull the hose off the bottom nipple and let it drain out the bottom? Then get some new hose and an oil filter and replace them? After I have everything replaced, I will need to unclamp them and let oil run through to prime/bleed the lines? Not sure if that is the correct way to prime the lines?

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Props to racer for going all freaking out on that explanation!

Next up: Where babies come from

 

[SeaDooGood]

Props to racer for going all freaking out on that explanation!

Next up: Where babies come from

Lol...yea definite props...helped me understand it a lot more!

 

[spx787]

Awesome Racerxxx! I am putting a 787 in a GTX hull and I was wondering how to route the oil lines for the crank case feed. I'm doing the pump delete and premixing for the cylinders. This just cleared that up!!!

 

[racerxxx]

Props to racer for going all freaking out on that explanation!

Next up: Where babies come from

Do you want to know how to make a boy or a girl? I got to hear that one from my pop.....so did the wife. So not scientific, LOL.

 

[racerxxx]

Glad you guys like it. I always liked my technical writing class in college.



What I would do on changing the oil out.

1. Use a suction pump and drain the tank.
2.Disconnect the lower hose from the oil tank fitting, use the same pump to suck that dry.
3. Disconnect the upper hose (return) and use the pump to suck that dry if possible.
4. Let that line flop into the hull.
5. Tip the ski to that side and let the rest of the oil run out into the hull.
6. Disconnect the oil feed line to the pump.
7. Throw out the old filter and install a new one.
8. Replace the two 3/32" oil lines to the rotary cover, use small cable ties to secure the lines to the hose barbs.
9. Reconnect the 2 lower tank lines.
10. Tip the ski back level, maybe even pitch it the other way.
11. Hold the line you let flop in the hull from the top of the tank.
12.Fill the oil tank, then lower the line in your hand and let it burp some oil out and any air gap that might be in there.
13. Connect that hose back to the top.
14. Loosen the bleeder screw on the front of the oil pump (I think it's 7mm?) Let it drain some oil and any bubbles trapped in the supply tube.
15. Tighten the bleeder screw and Check the alignment marks on the oil pump---make sure your idle is set correct FIRST.
16. I am cautious, I would premix the first tank at 40:1, start the ski and hold the pump wide open and prime the 3/32" lines.
17. If you don't do step 16 you can remove the spark plugs put some oil down there and crank the engine over while holding the pump wide open and watch the 3/32" line prime.
18. Put the plugs back in enjoy.

 

[racerxxx]

Suction pump available at Wally World or I get them at Harbor Freight.

Oil pump alignment and bleeder screw (thanks [MENTION=59978]kicker[/MENTION] for the pic)

 

[spx787]

Those cheap fluid transfer pumps are worth every penny! I use them all the time!

 

[RodInEscondido]

great stuff above
[MENTION=76912]SeaDooGood[/MENTION] ... seeing how you said you were in the medical field I was kinda waiting for you to jump into the seadooforum fray relating to the "where babies come from" comment with a comeback that you were an ob/gyn and would supply an explanation if needed.

Keep smiling and have fun with the new project.

Rod

 

[SeaDooGood]

great stuff above
[MENTION=76912]SeaDooGood[/MENTION] ... seeing how you said you were in the medical field I was kinda waiting for you to jump into the seadooforum fray relating to the "where babies come from" comment with a comeback that you were an ob/gyn and would supply an explanation if needed.

Keep smiling and have fun with the new project.

Rod

HAHA I actually was about to make a response exactly like that but then decided not to lol...anyways...so both injection lines (the one going to the rotary valve shaft and the other with the filter going to the pump) are BOTH gravity fed systems? Or does the pump actually work as a pump to pump oil to the engine, pistons, manifold, etc?

[MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION]

I'm thinking about just clamping off the two bottom injection lines, using a pump to pump/siphon out all the oil in the tank, then pull both injection lines out, get new 3/32" tygon fuel lines and cut them to the same length of the old lines, replace old filter with new filter, connect both injection lines back to the elbow fitting below the oil tank and clamp them, pour new correct oil into oil tank and fill, then unclamp lines to prime them, once both primed, connect them back to engine.

Would that work? Would I need to bleed any excess oil/air out of the lines once in connect them back to the engine?

 

[racerxxx]

Regardless you need to bleed the system. You can poke yourself in the eye many ways, I just choose the way that hurts the least. What I explained in 18 steps is probably an hour or so of work.

If you want to save 15 minutes or so just disconnect the hose that goes to the top of the tank and the very bottom and let them fall into the hull, then shop vac the oil out. The only reason I suggest running the first tank pre-mix is to make sure your pump is actually not air bound for some reason. The system is very simple when you get into it, it's not like bleeding brakes on a car.

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Here is the easiest way to get the oil out. Use the pump, stick it in the oil reservoir, pump all that out. Once you did that, remove the return line that pumps back into the oil tank, remove it ONLY AT THE TOP, shove the end of your siphon pump into that hose, and then pump out the rest of the oil. That will drain out both lines that connect to the rotary valve, and drain the engine as well. Easy peasy no mess at all.

 

[racerxxx]

Here is the easiest way to get the oil out. Use the pump, stick it in the oil reservoir, pump all that out. Once you did that, remove the return line that pumps back into the oil tank, remove it ONLY AT THE TOP, shove the end of your siphon pump into that hose, and then pump out the rest of the oil. That will drain out both lines that connect to the rotary valve, and drain the engine as well. Easy peasy no mess at all.

Hey wait, isn't that what I said?

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Pretty close I think. Sounded like you might get a little oil in the hull your way if I read correctly. Maybe I read wrong. I probably did, Midwest edumacation.

 

[racerxxx]

No, you were right, but should barely be much. A little soap and water clean up. I just want to get everything out if I can.

 

[SeaDooGood]

Here is the easiest way to get the oil out. Use the pump, stick it in the oil reservoir, pump all that out. Once you did that, remove the return line that pumps back into the oil tank, remove it ONLY AT THE TOP, shove the end of your siphon pump into that hose, and then pump out the rest of the oil. That will drain out both lines that connect to the rotary valve, and drain the engine as well. Easy peasy no mess at all.

If I do it this way, you're saying it will drain BOTH the big line going from the bottom of the oil tank to the side of the crankcase where the rotary valve is AND the one above it (with the in-line filter) going from the bottom of the oil tank to the oil pump? If so, what will happen when I add the correct oil to the tank? Will the two bottom oil lines automatically fill up with oil? Will I have to bleed them?

 

[racerxxx]

Dude, you gotta be patient my fat ass fingers can't type that fast. I just answered you in the other post.

 

[SeaDooGood]

Dude, you gotta be patient my fat ass fingers can't type that fast. I just answered you in the other post.

Sorry lol...can you combine the two posts? Don't know which one to post in...

 

[1of500]

The system is simple.

The oil in the tank is for 2 things, one is the oil injection system and the second is the lube the rotary valve shaft drive gear.


The oil line that has the oil filter (#20) goes to the oil pump. The other line connects to the engine and provides the oil to the rotary valve drive gears (one on the crankshaft the other on the rotary shaft). As the engine runs there is a little drive connector that spins the oil pump on the front of the engine. That oil pump injects oil into the engine in the manifold that the carbs are bolted to via the 2 small 3/32" oil lines. Between the engine and the manifold there is a disc, that is the rotary valve. As the engine turns so does the disc (driven from the crankshaft gear and rotary shaft), that disc is like a valve that opens and closes at the correct timing to allow gas and the injected oil and air into the bottom of that crankcase to be sucked into the cylinder to make the engine run. So back to the rotary shaft and crankshaft drive gear. The oil line that feeds that does just that, feeds it and the oil is just there like an oil bath, the outlet never pumps the oil back into the tank, it's more of a vent that goes back into the top of the tank via part #8. As the level gets low it will give you a low oil warning, usually a red light on your gas gauge with an oil can next to it. It's just like a heart kinda, without it pumping you ain't running for long.

Here is a larger pic of what you posted:

In between the 2 red seals is the rotary valve shaft drive gear on the crank. On the other side you can see the small brass drive gear on the rotary valve shaft. That spins the rotary valve.

The rotary vale goes on the center tooth drive gear and spins and covers and uncovers the 2 ports on either side.

20121005_140101.jpg[/IMG]

If you look close enough thru the ports you can see the back port is blocked by the RV and the front port is only partially blocked.