Broke oil pump bleed screw on Challenger 1800

[warthogwon]

So, I was bleeding the oil injection system and I tightened the bleed screw too much. I now have the screw head in my hand and the threaded portion inside the oil pump housing. It does not appear to be leaking, but I'll have to check again while underway to be sure. Any advice on how to get the rest of the screw out and where to source a new one?

 

[racerxxx]

Um, your not getting under way. You need to get that fixed first. I believe you can get it at the dealer for a few bucks.

I THINK you need 270500304 and 270500305 the screw is like $7 and the washer is $5

http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche...&make=Sea-Doo Sport Boats&year=1997&fveh=2708

Part# 54 and 55

Also try and PM Minnetonka he may have a pump for parts.

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep.... what he said.


DO NOT try to go use the boat. That screw will either fall out, or go in deeper from the vibration. Either way will cause you to loose an an engine from lack of oil.

 

[bigJake]

Yep.... what he said.


DO NOT try to go use the boat. That screw will either fall out, or go in deeper from the vibration. Either way will cause you to loose an an engine from lack of oil.

Does the pump need to be removed and the screw drilled out or should a screw extractor work? I have a cheap Screw Extractor set from HF that I have tried on a couple screws with zero luck. I snapped off a bleeder screw 3 years ago, put a dab of permatex over it and haven't had any problem with it, although I would like to replace it at some point.

I'm not suggesting you do what I did, I just never got around to replacing mine yet and I guess I've been lucky so far.

 

[warthogwon]

Thanks guys, you were exactly right. I left it for a few days waiting for a new bleed screw and when I came back, the white sock I left under the oil pump was saturated with oil.

bigJake, I did take the pump off of the stator housing and I would recommend that to get a good hold on it. It's just 2 bolts and a hose clamp. What I did to get the threaded portion of the bolt out was to use a jewelers slot-head screwdriver. Those small ones like what you would use for the screws in glasses. I first used the corner of the screwdriver to sort of score a line across the top of the remnants of the screw. I then used that scoring to get the piece to spin bit by bit. I used something of a circling motion (not spinning) around the bolt and it would occasionally catch and get it to spin. It really wasn't all that tight without head. I imagine a dental pick or something could clean out that permatex and you're good to go.

 

[racerxxx]

Sweet! Fix it once, fix it right!

 

[bigJake]

Thanks guys, you were exactly right. I left it for a few days waiting for a new bleed screw and when I came back, the white sock I left under the oil pump was saturated with oil.

bigJake, I did take the pump off of the stator housing and I would recommend that to get a good hold on it. It's just 2 bolts and a hose clamp. What I did to get the threaded portion of the bolt out was to use a jewelers slot-head screwdriver. Those small ones like what you would use for the screws in glasses. I first used the corner of the screwdriver to sort of score a line across the top of the remnants of the screw. I then used that scoring to get the piece to spin bit by bit. I used something of a circling motion (not spinning) around the bolt and it would occasionally catch and get it to spin. It really wasn't all that tight without head. I imagine a dental pick or something could clean out that permatex and you're good to go.

Warthog, thanks for the info :thumbsup:


Anybody,
I'm trying to figure out from the diagram which is the bleed screw. Is it #23?
http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...adoopwc&a=202&b=6&c=0&d=-MAGNETO-AND-OIL-PUMP

And
can I just get a Banjo Bolt from the autoparts for $2 instead of ordering online? Anybody know the bolt size?
Thanks.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Generally speaking,,, if the bolt does NOT bottom out it is normally easy to remove it. If it does bottom out, it can be pretty hard to get the screw out.

One easy method is, get a LEFT hand drill. Start to drill into the screw and then slow down and press fairly hard so that it grabs the screw more so than drills the screw.

More often than not the bolt walks right out of the hole. If not,,, you have a hole to use an easy out that will grab the screw and hopefully remove it.

 

[bigJake]

Generally speaking,,, if the bolt does NOT bottom out it is normally easy to remove it. If it does bottom out, it can be pretty hard to get the screw out.

One easy method is, get a LEFT hand drill. Start to drill into the screw and then slow down and press fairly hard so that it grabs the screw more so than drills the screw.

More often than not the bolt walks right out of the hole. If not,,, you have a hole to use an easy out that will grab the screw and hopefully remove it.

I'm thinking that mine is bottomed out, which is why it isn't leaking. When I put it in, I turned it snug and then gave it only about 1/8 turn and it snapped off pretty flush with the pump.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Bottomed out it MUCH harder..

If that is the case,, good luck with it.

Might want to consider drilling it out and putting in a Heli-coil.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Funny the Time it happened to me was in a boat too.

it was at like 2am in the dark, not only that when I was fixing it I yanked one of the oil lines right out of the tank and made a TOTAL mess!

 

[Coastiejoe]

Fixing a boat at 2AM,,, I would think there was alcohol involved...

Only while in the military did I work at whatever time the boat broke. Day, date, weather nor time mattered...

 

[warthogwon]

bigJake, It's numbers 54 and 55 on that page. My bolt wasn't even a banjo bolt, just regular one with the long hex head. The bleed comes from slots in the threads of the bolt housing on both sides. So the bolt "seals" with the washer and head flush up against the pump. I don't know if a standard bolt would have the correct surface area to seal off the area or not. This is what it looked like once I got the threaded portion mostly out. You can see the notches on either side of the bolt that let it bleed.

 

[bigJake]

bigJake, It's numbers 54 and 55 on that page. My bolt wasn't even a banjo bolt, just regular one with the long hex head. The bleed comes from slots in the threads of the bolt housing on both sides. So the bolt "seals" with the washer and head flush up against the pump. I don't know if a standard bolt would have the correct surface area to seal off the area or not. This is what it looked like once I got the threaded portion mostly out. You can see the notches on either side of the bolt that let it bleed.
View attachment 17576

great, thanks!