Best/Least Expensive 2 Stroke Marine Oil?

[stfoulks]

Caught with my pants down

So - I bought a 98 Sportster 1800 6 weeks ago. Rebuilt engines had been installed in 2004 (Twin 717's), and the owner had the receipts for that and faithful maintenance/winterization each year since. He told me he'd run premium Bombardier oil in it and nothing else. Well, today was the day that the oil light came on and I had to do a dope slap because I hadn't bought any to keep on board. The only marina on the lake had Mercury TC-W3 and nothing else, so I bought a jug and filled 'er up. Reading this, I feel like I should drain the reservoir this week and get the API-TC... as I checked the receipts from the seller tonight, I was surprised to see that the premium Bombardier oil is on the receipt as TCW3. Do I need to drain before switching or is there harm in running this tank out? Regardless of that answer, do I need to thoroughly clean the reservoir before putting the API-TC in? No excuse for not having spare oil on hand, I plan to get many seasons of fun out of this thing and want to do whatever it takes to increase the odds of keeping it on the water and out of the shop.:bigear:

 

[SurfBeat]

Did the previous owner use Bombadier mineral oil, blend or full synthetic?

The Mercury oil that you bought, was it Premium, Premium Plus or synthetic? The container should state.

If it was Premium, maybe as with its Quicksilver brand, albeit it is rated TCW it is also rated API TC. (DISCLAIMER: Mercury manufactures Quicksilver, so maybe the same applies. Read the back of the container to ascertain if it is rated API TC)

The Two Wise men on this site point out that it it a definite no to mix mineral to synthetic and not wise to mix brands.

That seems like wise advice. They know this stuff.

That said, I've mixed mineral brands TCW3 and API TC on occasion, (before I knew better thanks to the Forum) and my Doo has kept running for the past five years with zero problems. In the future, however, I will be following the Wise Men's advice.

Maybe you will be lucky, conditioned that you did not mix synthetic to mineral. Can't go that way.

The long n short of it, pull the hose from the bottom of the oil tank and drain it into a container. Then blow out the oil from the engine and oil lines. It tkaes about a half-hour.

Pull up a thred by Daverade. His thread will make you laugh, but gives the step-by-step instruction how to do the blowing.

Maybe you will be lucky and one of the Wise Men will see your question.

I hope this helps.

 

[stfoulks]

Did the previous owner use Bombadier mineral oil, blend or full synthetic?

The Mercury oil that you bought, was it Premium, Premium Plus or synthetic? The container should state.

If it was Premium, maybe as with its Quicksilver brand, albeit it is rated TCW it is also rated API TC. (DISCLAIMER: Mercury manufactures Quicksilver, so maybe the same applies. Read the back of the container to ascertain if it is rated API TC)

After looking - it was the Mercury Premium, and was rated for PWCs, TCW3 and API TC, I remember this was the only thing that made me decide not to head for the the boat ramp and my trailer. I think that after reading on here, I have some options, but the best may be to see what oil I can get locally and switch to that. I have a BassPro and Walmart nearby that I'll check for quicksilver - otherwise, I guess I'll order the top shelf stuff. I'll drain and go to whatever I can get locally.

Thanks!

 

[SurfBeat]

Good! From your reply I see that Quicksilver's Premium and Mercury's Premium are same-o-same-o, rated both API TC and TCW3.

That said, I know that Quicksilver's Premium is ASHLESS, so, according to my Operators Guide, not the type of oil to use in a Doo. My 93 GTX's need Low Ash additives.

From other posts it APPEARS ALL Doo's need a Low Ash Oil.

To confirm, look in your Operators Guide for oil information and and it will set forth the oil requirements. If you don't have an Operators Guide, become a Premium member and you can get one for free as well as a shop manual. The membership is a lot less than a shop manual, plus, you get a Operators Guide which are hard to find.

Lest I forget, as pointed out by the Two Wise Men on this site, be sure you did not mix mineral oil to synthetic oil, so, check with the previous owner to see what oil he/she used, mineral or synthetic?

I'm using Quicksilver's PWC 2-stoke oil, (silver container) a blend, 30% synthetic to 70% mineral. I was told by a friend that has a Rotax engine in his airplane that two strokes need some mineral oil for lubrication when the engine is not running. According to the pilot, synthetic does not provide that protection for 2-stroke engines, thus, the blend is the way I am going to go.

The Wise Men on this site may have a different opinion, but to the best of my recollection, to date have not addressed that issue.

The past week I've done a lot of research on oils for Doo's. There are several oil producers, i.e., Texaco, Penzoil, etc., that peddle API TC Low Ash Oil.

Except of finding Quicksilver in my area, I haven't found any of the other brands. Quicksilver is far less expensive that the Doo brand.

If you want to discover all of the brands, pull up my posts and in one of them I listed them all.

 

[racerherbie]

Interesting...Looks like the price of the Quicksilver sythetic isn't that much different from Amsoil.

 

[SDtwin85]

I bought my speedster used and was told to use XPS mineral oil in it. Lucky for me its only a 30 minute drive to the marina, $29 a gal. The motors only have 150 hours on them and yesterday by myself it went 60 mph. So I think I will stick with the mineral oil. Kermit

 

[WTRFWLR]

Oil

Quicksilver PWC is what my mechanic stated was average to good. Wal-Mart has it for $27, but if I can get SeaDoo for a few $ more. I will be buying SeaDoo

 

[stfoulks]

Gettin' Right

So I found out today that what I've done is added a liter of the Mercury TWC to about 1/4 tank of XPS Mineral Oil. Hope I don't have a sludgy mess on my hands... only ran the boat for about an hour after that. I picked up 3 gallons of XPS Mineral Oil today, and I'll be draining the reservoir and getting things back the way they should be. The Doo store ain't close, but it's not far either...

 

[HighTrim]

I just bought a '97 speedster and put some of the Amsoil Synthetic PWC oil in it. Im assuming thats ok? I have not heard it mentioned.

 

[racerherbie]

I just bought a '97 speedster and put some of the Amsoil Synthetic PWC oil in it. Im assuming thats ok? I have not heard it mentioned.

I run it all my sleds and my Speedster. Just make sure it says API-TC on the back of the jug. They make a couple of different types.

 

[fonthillhdtv]

walmart oil

I live in Canada and found the BRP oil very expensive so reading this thread got me interested in the quick silver oil. I made a trip over to Buffalo today and found this oil at walmart from Quicksilver it says it is full synthetic api-tc and for use in seadoo. I have been using the BRP xps synthetic. Can I switch over to the quicksilver with out draining any oil that is left in the tank. The Quicksilver oil is $37.00 at walmart.

 

[JWLogsdon]

So I bought my boat 10 days ago and need to add oil. He used sythetic Sea Doo oil, And I can only find synthetic Quick silver PWC.

CAN I MISS THESE??????????????

 

[Dr Honda]

I'm assuming you meant "Mix."

NO... don't mix them.

The only thing you can mix with the XPS synth, is the new XPS Synth blend.

 

[Stevego]

Is there a sticky anywhere (or can we get one?) with a list of approved oils?

 

[SurfBeat]

Pull up my post "Rotax Engine Oil Chart."

 

[Stevego]

Nice thanks!

Here is the link for future searchers...

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=32216

 

[copter]

I live in Canada and found the BRP oil very expensive so reading this thread got me interested in the quick silver oil. I made a trip over to Buffalo today and found this oil at walmart from Quicksilver it says it is full synthetic api-tc and for use in seadoo. I have been using the BRP xps synthetic. Can I switch over to the quicksilver with out draining any oil that is left in the tank. The Quicksilver oil is $37.00 at walmart.

I just bought a gallon of the BRP oil at Burloak Marine in Burlington for $40. I'm hoping to find a cheaper alternative too, but if the Quicksilver stuff is $37/gallon, I'll just stick with the BRP stuff.

To answer your question, I assume it would be wiser to take the level of oil in your tank near the bottom before adding the Quicksilver, but that's just from the info I've read. You do not want to mix oils.

 

[WAJetboating]

I just bought a gallon of the BRP oil at Burloak Marine in Burlington for $40. I'm hoping to find a cheaper alternative too, but if the Quicksilver stuff is $37/gallon, I'll just stick with the BRP stuff.

NEWS FLASH: I just found Mercury/Quicksilver Premium Plus at my local WalMart for $19.98 per gallon.

That is not a misprint. Under twenty bucks per gallon!

My local ultra-cheap discount boating store charges about $30 per gallon and I've always been happy to pay that price. But when I saw this I snapped up both gallons that were on the shelf even though I still had a full, unopened gallon at home.

I've since emailed with another guy whose local WalMart had it at the same price. So check your local WalMarts and Sam's Clubs... they may be stocking this stuff now and the prices cannot be beaten.

 

[SurfBeat]

You betta have saved your Wal-Mart receipts because QS Premium Plus is a NON ash (ashless) oil. Your Doo needs Low Ash.

Moreover, it is a TCW3 oil and your Doo needs API TC Oil.

The only QS Oil that is low ash is QS PWC Oil, either blend or full synthetic. Any engine above a 657 needs full synthetic.

 

[SurfBeat]

The Wise Men on this site state that it is not wise to mix different brands of oil because of the different ingredients different brands use.

It is somewhat if a choir to drain all of the oil from the tank and engine, but, in the event the Wise Men's advice is on point, invest an hour or so and save the aggravation.

I've used Valvoline TCW3 oil for the past 4-5 years without any noticeable problem, however, reading the posts by the Wise Men on this site regarding oil, plus some other research, I've decided to spend the extra $10 a gallon just in case.

 

[fonthillhdtv]

]I just bought a gallon of the BRP oil at Burloak Marine in Burlington for $40. I'm hoping to find a cheaper alternative too, but if the Quicksilver stuff is $37/gallon, I'll just stick with the BRP stuff.

To answer your question, I assume it would be wiser to take the level of oil in your tank near the bottom before adding the Quicksilver, but that's just from the info I've read. You do not want to mix oils.[/QUOTE]


I have agree with you at $40.00 you doing pretty good I checked my receipt for a jug refill at Beidas on pelham and it was 57.00 with tax they suppose to save you a few bucks refilling your old container. The QS pwc i bought for 37.00 is us dollars so with gas tolls etc. it is not really worth the drive. I will be in burlington this week is it the seadoo dealer i can see from the highway (QEW) aand was what you bought full synthetic xps

 

[WAJetboating]

You betta have saved your Wal-Mart receipts because QS Premium Plus is a NON ash (ashless) oil. Your Doo needs Low Ash.
The only QS Oil that is low ash is QS PWC Oil, either blend or full synthetic. Any engine above a 657 needs full synthetic.

Actually, MY Doo needs Premium Plus because my Doo's engine is WAY above a "657". My Doo has a "2500" - a Mercury 2.5L V6 240EFI SportJet engine which specifically uses Premium Plus.

I posted this here because others were talking about buying PP oil, and I thought I'd share the least expensive place to find it that I've found so far.

BTW, I also have Rotax engines (787's) and for those I use AMSOil Interceptor. In fact, I just bought another gallon. Keeps my RAVE's cleaner than anything else I've tried, including the official BRP XP-S.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Quicksilver..?

The Quicksilver oil is not located in the marine side of the Walmart stores. They put it over in the car oil section (don't ask me why?). If you look, you'll find the gallons and quarts of TCW oils along with the low ash.

Like Dr. Honda said, it is geographical. But, if you find your local Walmart doesn't carry it, you can request it using the SKU number I put in my Quicksilver thread.....

You can mix oils that are stepping up but not stepping down. So, if your going to a mineral base from a synth (but why?), then you need to clean out the entire oil system.

 

[phazewun]

dont mean to high jack this thread but im having some problems understanding how to change the jet oil < engine oil > .

there is no drain plug or anything and im not spending 400 dollars for the dealer to change it any help ?

thanks

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=32613

 

[WAJetboating]

The Quicksilver oil is not located in the marine side of the Walmart stores. They put it over in the car oil section (don't ask me why?). If you look, you'll find the gallons and quarts of TCW oils along with the low ash.

I used to find marine chemicals in the auto section of my local WalMarts, but it appears they've moved them to the seasonal "boating" section. That's where I found the gallons and quarts of Premium Plus this time around.

Pays to look in both places. Might even pay to ASK, just in case. I wonder if they can locate a particular store's stocking location based on its UPC or SKU?