At A Total Loss On A 96 XP

[Skidoodle]

Hey ya'll, I bought this ski 3yrs ago not running for $200 and now I have $1043 in it and guess what? It still don't run worth a chit. No, seriously, I have had it running excellent at times off and on but I have also had to work on it, replace parts and get towed way too much! I can't help it though, I'm addicted to my 96 XP! Here is the skinny;

150psi per
New black rubber 1/4" fuel lines, all of them
Clear external fuel filter
Used MPEM pur from Nick
Used Stator that ohms out good
2 New Batts, Current one is AGM T16L from Advance
3 Carb disassy and inspect, clean, adjust
New Mikuni gskts, diaph, O-rings, chk vlvs,etc
New OSD needles and seats
12 New NGK BR8ES plugs
New OSD Ign coil
2 New OSD rectifiers

I have a nice shop with compressed air and all of the tools and equip needed to do quality work, so if anyone could help me or give me some insight, I would certainly appreciate it. Please watch the video. It seems to me like starving for fuel but if you pull the choke it will die immediately. In this video, the fuel inlet hose has been routed to a one gallon fuel container in the front of the ski which of course bypasses EVERYTHING leaving nothing but the carbs to fail. WHAT AM I MISSING? I really look forward to hearing from some of the top guys on here that have helped me before. I honestly don't know what to do except.......??????????? Thanks


[video]https://youtu.be/QWC33aTZLqo[/video]

 

[bajaman123]

I've seen more than one of the experts simply say, "Buy a new carb/carbs" when confronted with issues like you describe. Sometimes it IS the best solution. Especially if you ever try to put a price on your time and more importantly, patience/mental health, lol!

 

[jimmaki]

Sorry to hear you're having such frustrating problems with what should be a fun toy. I'm not a top guy and haven't helped you before, but the good news is you're still below average retail for that ski in running condition.

You must know that just because you put on a new or rebuilt part from however reputable a retailer, it doesn't necessarily mean it's a good part or that it wasn't damaged when you installed it. It's usually better if you know what damaged the part you're replacing and correct that problem first.

Are both cylinders firing? Is sounds like it's four cycling or only running on one cylinder at times in the video but my phone speakers aren't the best. Given all the electricals you've replaced I take it you also trimmed the spark plug wires.

Just curious since I don't know what work was done or parts replaced for the $1043 and what led you to believe they needed replacing. Was any engine work done? Was the case pressure tested at any point?

Sorry for not being any specific help but maybe some answers to some questions will help others zero in on the problem.

 

[Lake Sailor]

You got a leak at the exhaust flange? See 0:25 and about 0:50. Water in combustion maybe?

 

[doomann88]

I've seen more than one of the experts simply say, "Buy a new carb/carbs" when confronted with issues like you describe. Sometimes it IS the best solution. Especially if you ever try to put a price on your time and more importantly, patience/mental health, lol!

This was me a year ago, had other problems but after a total engine rebuild still ran like crap, I had been through the carbs 20 times by then and they tested perfect in every way. Still what ended up being the prob was just replacing with a known good set then it ran perfect.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Fuel selectors fail often and suck air. Did you change the pop off spring in the carb. The water separator O-ring leaks and sucks air. Put some grease on it.


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[donkey]

have u checked batt voltage while running?also check for ac voltage. i see that u have replaced rectifier 2x,,but it sounds like mine did when the voltage was too hi,,disconnect the red wire n try it,,its free

 

[Matt Braley]

Your exhaust manifold to pipe gasket is leaking bad. It could be spraying water into the airbox.

 

[eddie708]

U have a huge leak on the exhaust manifold gasket that deff could be part of your problem

 

[Skidoodle]

Thanks for the replies so far everyone.

Bajaman123 & doomann88, I too am leaning that way especially after reading doomann88's post from a year ago.

Lake Sailor, Matt Braley, and eddie708, yes, I noticed the small water leak at the exh flange, not the problem though.

CoastieJoe, maybe you overlooked what I wrote in my post? I bypassed EVERYTHING in the fuel system.

donkey, I have checked the voltage multiple times and unplugged the red wire at the rectifier multiple times to no avail. The current voltage reading in the video is 13.7v and climbing with rpms to just over 14v DC.

 

[Mickirig1]

First thing you need to do is fix the water leak. It is a rough enough environment for the electronics without water spraying on stuff. Try putting a heavy coat of Dielectric tune up grease inside the spark plug boots. It seals out any moisture, which gives a pathway to ground. Electricity takes the easiest path to ground. It a good thing to put in the junction plugs of any wiring too. Check all your connections too. Any water can make the connections go to ground thru the moisture.

 

[Skidoodle]

Water leak will be fixed tomorrow and will recheck all connections again. I have found several questionable connections that I was very hopeful would be the fix, but so far I'm still looking for "the one" that could be causing all of this grief. Thanks.

 

[racerxxx]

OK, here's what I think. Part #4 on the diagram, DC-CDI module or the trigger coil in the mag housing is bad. That handles the input from the trigger coil in the mag housing. It tells the ignition when to fire, it also has the ignition timing cure and rev limiter built into it This is just a shot in the dark, but to me it sounds like a car that has the timing too retarded and it boggy and once the timing advances it will clear out so to speak and rev clean. But in your situation, the thing is boggy to X RPM and them the timing advances enough and it's immediately on the rev limiter.

 

[Matt Braley]

The trigger pick up is a good thought. Sometimes they will partially break(metal of the bracket will crack/tear) before they break off entirely.

 

[Skidoodle]

Maybe someone can help me with this. I'm looking for vid or info about taking apart the square connector that plugs into the stator at the front of the engine. I really need to SEE those terminals inside because water has been sprayed on them in the past and I suspect they could be corroded although ohm checking it doesn't indicate a problem. I checked the manual, but didn't see anything.............. Anybody????

 

[racerxxx]

I'll post a pic later tonight, unless someone else does it first. But, I always remove the ribbed seal so I don't lose it. But there is an orange wedge in the center you need to pick out, that week askew the rest to happen.

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[racerxxx]

Here you go, I just googled for it. This pic shows the wedge in green. You get the idea. Pay attention what goes where.




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[Mickirig1]

Look for green powder on wires. It can mean the wire has internal corrosion. Just a pin hole can let in moisture. The wire can have a problem distant from connections and junction plugs.

 

[Skidoodle]

Thanks again everyone, esp racerxxx. I have finally been able to do some more diagnostics and this is where I'm at. I had another 'ah ha, I've found it moment' when I removed the terminals from the stator connector, see pic.

There were only 3 strands of wire still intact to this terminal! I repaired that connection by cutting the wire back to good wire, cleaning the terminal with a wire brush and soldering the wire to the terminal and reassembling the connector. Test drive, no improvement. UGH! Oh well, at least I've eliminated that connector as a problem.
Next, I investigated the possible CDI module/Trigger per racerxxx and this is what I've found, see pic.





According to the static tests in the SM, the CDI must be failed. The Trigger ohms out at 249ohms, well within specs. It looks like I need a CDI module. I'm just so skeptical at this point though. I would like some input before I replace yet another part. Also, any leads on a known good CDI module that I could purchase. Thanks....

 

[Skidoodle]

bump to top

 

[racerxxx]

Pm minnetonka4me, see what he can work out with you on a cdi. I "think" he will sell you one and if that's not your problem he'll charge you a nominal restock fee. Again, you ask him but I think he's well to work with guys like that but I could be wrong.

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[Skidoodle]

Thanks. Do you find from your experience that the static test tables in the SM are accurate in their diagnosis of electronic modules??

 

[racerxxx]

I've never really had to, but they should know what they're talking about. Their techs got the same manuals.

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[jarin12ga]

Yup!!

you got a leak at the exhaust flange? See 0:25 and about 0:50. Water in combustion maybe?

i was just going to post that leak too!! Good eye!!

 

[Lake Sailor]

Kinda old news by now LOL