The front of the engine is no different on a c180 heat wise. It's more for water intrusion imo. The stock intake is up there too. Does the "kit" relocate the voltage regulator that is attached to the stock intake? That was always an issue where to put it when piecing together your own kit. Needs some constant airflow or you will burn it up.
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Anyone done the 215HP to 255HP upgrade?
- Thread starter Carboncow
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Carboncow
Active Member
Are people using the kana flex and whatever cone/filter they can find then? I see how the designed systems mostly route to the front of the engine but on the C180 I would think to the rear near the OEM location would be about as far from engine heat as well as the air duct near there.
Is the hole on the SC really 4" or is that on the filter side...I seem to recall that hole being closer to 3". Boat is under cover to measure the old hose. Actually as I write this I wonder why I cannot use the OEM hose.
Lastly, there is electronics going to the OEM air box. Is this party of the tip over system. Do the skis have this? I'm trying to understand what those wires do and what people do wit them when they pull out the OEM. Not finding many posts yet on C180 and cold air intakes although I've seen many photos around the internets.
Carboncow
Active Member
Does length of intake pipe seem to be a concern? I see some pretty short setups out there but the OEM seems to be 6ft long.
As far as the rectifier...I"m going to have to out there and look again. I seem to recall seeing one somewhere but not in the air box. I just dug through parts diagrams. Is a rectifier the same as a Voltage Regulator? the only reason I ask that is one diagram has written next to the VR, Air Silencer. See attached image.
I'm pretty much a information crack head when I get a new toy. Thanks for hanging in there with me.
EDIT: OK, I just uncovered the boat to look at the air box. I"m guessing the VR is just sitting on top of the air box for a cool/dry place to hang out. The plugs look the same in the image.
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XP 787
Active Member
You are correct voltage regulator. This keeps battery voltage from spiking and going too high.
As far as hose length it doesn't really matter. The cooler and higher up you can route it the better.
Ask as many questions as you want that's how I learned what I know today all from this forum. The day I joined was the day I got my first ski and as you can I haven't been a member for too long.
As far as hose length it doesn't really matter. The cooler and higher up you can route it the better.
Ask as many questions as you want that's how I learned what I know today all from this forum. The day I joined was the day I got my first ski and as you can I haven't been a member for too long.
Nosnibor
Active Member
Wow, so much info...I wish I could keep up...Does air intake make that much of a difference? I feel like my C180 has just a cone filter on the block itself or maybe that is something else....or the previous owner made an odd mod... I'll have to look in there again and confirm.
Carboncow
Active Member
I'm going to continue to highjack my own post to keep discussing the intake. I'm NOT speaking from experience but just the 20+ posts I've read on SDF as well as other sites. The resounding opinion is YES on getting rid of the OEM airbox and going with a K&N type setup. People are claiming 100-400RPM and 2-3MPH with 200RPM seeming to be the real number.
From what I've read turbos and SC seem to benefit from such a setup but not NA vehicles. Additionally, if you are in salt water you still want to dump your oil vapor back into the intake on your non-OEM system to keep the SC lubed from salt air. Otherwise the other benefit is to use a catch can for the oil vapor as removing from your SC will reduce thermal load. I'm having my SC rebuilt so I want to keep it happy from day one. Also...everyone says to keep your intake as short as possible only to the point you are confident you will not have water ingress into the intake if something very wet happens. The long OEM seems to be another reason for the restrictive air.
So with that said here is my setup (see photo) that I'll have about $50.00. Spectre is the brand name we have at Pep Boys and AutoZone where I live and they were 10% off, on sale. They have a solid website too. I bought a 4" filter as well as 3-4" adapter to go on the SC. Bigger is better in this case. The filter is very well built and as good as any K&N I've seen at 2-3 times the price.
I'm going to go ghetto on my piping as I had 3" black ABS (black water) piping in my garage. I just bought a couple angled pieces so I can get my design just right. I want to go about 2ft up and over toward the battery area. If I like my design I'll prob do the right thing and get proper hosing such as listed on the sponsors sites. Starts with a K but I cannot recall the name.
Also the voltage regulator (rectifier) is placed into the OEM box to keep it cool. Most people are arguing on the forums to just hang it out anywhere and there will be no issues. It really doesn't get much air as it is with the design of the air box. Just don't tuck it in a corner or a air with stale area...I haven't determined my solution yet but it will stay above batteries prob.
Also don't use rubber hoses as they my buckle from the suction (so I've read) but stick with silicon or my cheap-o ABS/PVC. You can add pretty metal but it adds to warming the air due to it's thermal absorption properties.
lastly, everyone says you'll get more roar and SC sound with this setup...I'm not looking for that but prob won't hate it.
My goals here..
1. Keep SC dry
2. Get an extra 1-2RPM
3. Get an extra mile or two
No I'm not an expert but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express...
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Carboncow
Active Member
Will do. Should have SC back middle of next week. I've got a video to edit on the removal of the unit too that may be helpful for C180 owners since most write ups and photos are ski related.
IT's also worth nothing that you don't have to hassle with making your own oil catch can as shown all over the place. To much hassle. Just get on Amazon and order one as they range from $17 to 100+ dollars. I settled on this $45 setup from Moroso (85402) as it has the breather already on it...although I like the ones you'll find on there with a site tube to see how full it is!
FYI the one I have on the photo is all over the internets for $35...I'm just lazy with Amazon and wanted it yesterday!
Jcamaro
Member
Guys,
I'm looking at purchasing a 2007 C180 SE with the intention of upgrading to the 255hp option. I live in Canada so not sure what parts availability is like but I'd like to know what kinda costs i'm looking at before i commit to buy a lesser HP boat.
Again my end goal is good reliability and max HP i can generate.
I'm just wondering what my options are and where to start.
Thanks,
Johnny
I'm looking at purchasing a 2007 C180 SE with the intention of upgrading to the 255hp option. I live in Canada so not sure what parts availability is like but I'd like to know what kinda costs i'm looking at before i commit to buy a lesser HP boat.
Again my end goal is good reliability and max HP i can generate.
I'm just wondering what my options are and where to start.
Thanks,
Johnny
Carboncow
Active Member
Johnny,
I didn't re-read this post I got involved in but I'm pretty sure all you answers are here. To upgrade from the 215 is a matter of upgrading the wheel and injectors or simply getting the upgraded SC/injector combo for approx. $1200.00. If you are buying a used boat and don't have the history on the supercharger then you need to rebuild anyways so you'll have $450+ in that. I wish I would have done it but I simply spent to much money on SeaDeck, stereo, cover, Thrust Vector....
If you go the upgraded SC/injectors you can still sell your old SC for a few hundred dollars or even get credit for it from the seller...I think $200-300 sticks in my head.
The bottom line is the OEM 255HP had upgraded intercooler and different software but the SC/injector kit doesn't require either...and may fall a fe HP short of the 255.
I'd love to hear from those who did the wheel/injector upgrades and see if it's worth the money. I'd love to have just a bit more oomph. There is only one good write up around here I found and the guy claimed he took it off because he drank to much gas. I'm not saying he's not right but I'd love more input. So far I'm blown away how little gas my C180 is using!
I didn't re-read this post I got involved in but I'm pretty sure all you answers are here. To upgrade from the 215 is a matter of upgrading the wheel and injectors or simply getting the upgraded SC/injector combo for approx. $1200.00. If you are buying a used boat and don't have the history on the supercharger then you need to rebuild anyways so you'll have $450+ in that. I wish I would have done it but I simply spent to much money on SeaDeck, stereo, cover, Thrust Vector....
If you go the upgraded SC/injectors you can still sell your old SC for a few hundred dollars or even get credit for it from the seller...I think $200-300 sticks in my head.
The bottom line is the OEM 255HP had upgraded intercooler and different software but the SC/injector kit doesn't require either...and may fall a fe HP short of the 255.
I'd love to hear from those who did the wheel/injector upgrades and see if it's worth the money. I'd love to have just a bit more oomph. There is only one good write up around here I found and the guy claimed he took it off because he drank to much gas. I'm not saying he's not right but I'd love more input. So far I'm blown away how little gas my C180 is using!
Jcamaro
Member
Thanks for the info.
I'd be happy with say 245hp for the 1200.00 USD.
I think the boat I'm looking at has the upgraded washers in it and only has 170hrs on it total. So i'd be looking for injectors and a s/c wheel i guess. I also saw that people replaced the integrated intercooler with the external fizzle one....but i think that's like 800.00 more USD
Carboncow
Active Member
Don't guess on that SC and the updated washers, do it if you don't believe the seller 100% or have no paper trail!
I was told directly by the retailer that the intercooler (or software) was not needed so you could always do the wheel/injectors, make a new shorter intake and find a bag of money next year for the intercooler if needed.
I did my rebuilt through site sponsor PWC Muscle and exchanged emails with them directly on the upgrade option...that is where my intel came from. If you have concerns def talk to them, quick answers. They are the ones who offered me the credit on exchanging my SC with the wheel/injector deal.
I was told directly by the retailer that the intercooler (or software) was not needed so you could always do the wheel/injectors, make a new shorter intake and find a bag of money next year for the intercooler if needed.
I did my rebuilt through site sponsor PWC Muscle and exchanged emails with them directly on the upgrade option...that is where my intel came from. If you have concerns def talk to them, quick answers. They are the ones who offered me the credit on exchanging my SC with the wheel/injector deal.
Jcamaro
Member
Carbon,
Boat I'm looking at is owned by a seadoo mechanic....apparently he knows one of the engineers at bombardier who designed the jet pump...just had a 1/2 discussion about oil in the bearing cone vs grease....he uses grease just FYI...however I'll continue to use the synthetic gear oil and change annually, he couldn't convince me.
Washers are 100% done....he uses synthetic oil.
So i guess I'll look into the wheel swap and injectors for now.....intercooler next year as you've advised.
Thanks for the great feedback and quick responses,
Johnny
Jcamaro
Member
I'd run the filter as close to the intake for your engine bay blower air as you can get it....strap the VR to the pipe somewhere so that it still gets cooled by the passing air. When you really need to go fast....turn on the blower to supply outside ambiant air to your conical filter...
Seem crazy?
Carboncow
Active Member
I think the info I've read up till now contradicts that theory. One the main reasons for removing the OEM intake is reducing the length of hose as well as putting a nice filter into the equation. Additionally, using a separate oil catch takes the oil out of the intake and coating everything and thus reducing thermal loading. I'm not expert or engineer and these kinds of things can seem pretty volatile to talk about...my take away is from reading 101 threads on here, other forums and the jet ski threads. As far as the VR I'm getting from a few that the VR is pretty robust and my location should be adequate. Most felt the OEM placement was kind of silly as there really was little movement for it in where it was placed in the box on these older ones...might be different in the upgraded 255/newer boats.
Also you stated the seller was a tech and that's all and great but EVERYONE on here will tell you that running full synthetic in the SC models is a big no-no. Full synthetic allows for a slip in the cutch and thus why BPR ONLY recommends dino or blend for this need. Fully synthetic is fine in non SC models.
Good luck!
I'm relatively certain synthetic gear oil in the pump won't cause the supercharger clutch to slip
Jcamaro
Member
My guy is saying amsoil Marine is fine certified for use after the replacement of the ceramic washers...which he did at 3 hrs.
This is what i found.
https://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/SmallEngine/TSB SE-2007-04-19 Sea Doo PWC.pdf
Carboncow
Active Member
It's nice to see a manufacture who sells their own over priced products actually offer a alternative...although I know they are required by law to state that their product is NOT the only one that works.
Wish we had more options in our area for the right 4-stroke marine/ATV oils that meet specs. I think I have a shell product that met specs and is available at Menards. I hear the name Amsoil quite a bit but have never used it...I'm sure they are all solid and being my season is short will only change it once per summer.
Good info.
Wish we had more options in our area for the right 4-stroke marine/ATV oils that meet specs. I think I have a shell product that met specs and is available at Menards. I hear the name Amsoil quite a bit but have never used it...I'm sure they are all solid and being my season is short will only change it once per summer.
Good info.
Jcamaro
Member
Agreed....this was the first I've heard of it.
I ran Amsoil in two Z28's i had for the long service interval (at that time it was 10,000kms) and the superior protection it offered. (1 overheat on the LT1 proved the amsoils worth)
Anyway just an FYI for anyone wanting to run Synthetic after they've upgraded washers.
Thanks for all the info guys,
Johnny
I just never understood spending that much money to buy a boat, putting a thousand dollars worth of fuel through it each year, and then trying to save $50 on the oil change.
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