Air bubbles in fuel lines

[mikidymac]

Stick with the new one. Also you have to remove the cover to get the old one out anyways. Even with the rear mounts there is still a little play in the front one. Just mark it so it goes back the same. You are overthinking this.

Mark the bolt, remove the bolt and then lift the front of the engine just enough to get the cover off.

 

[mejim707]

Stick with the new one. Also you have to remove the cover to get the old one out anyways. Even with the rear mounts there is still a little play in the front one. Just mark it so it goes back the same. You are overthinking this.

Mark the bolt, remove the bolt and then lift the front of the engine just enough to get the cover off.

I found the new model of the shaft at a local place. I'm going to pick that up tomorrow.

I pulled the new plugs out again and snapped a shot of the inside of the PTO cylinder. Does this carbon look normal on the piston? I'm wondering if perhaps I should pull the head and inspect the condition of the pistons. It looks pretty straight forward.

 

[mikidymac]

I wouldn't worry about the carbon at the moment. It's not and issue at this point. It does look wet so you are getting fuel.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Loads of fun! @mikidymac is the man to ask about the drive shaft for sure.

 

[mejim707]

I wouldn't worry about the carbon at the moment. It's not and issue at this point. It does look wet so you are getting fuel.

I’m finally about to do this oil pump shaft. You said put a 2 x 4 under the engine. Should I do this before or after I lift? Is there any suggested placement that’s best?

 

[mikidymac]

After you lift. You just want it to hold the engine up so you can get the cover off.

 

[mejim707]

After you lift. You just want it to hold the engine up so you can get the cover off.

Oh I see, you’re saying to lift it manually then place the board underneath to keep it held up while I work on the cover. I actually have a winch that I’ll be using and hook into The exhaust mount on the top of the magneto. I’ll place the board under the engine as an extra safety.

Unfortunately I’m an idiot and I forgot the Mag cover O ring. Going to pick that up now.

Thanks again for all the information.

 

[mejim707]

Well there’s your problem.

 

[mikidymac]

Glad you caught it before your engine ran without oil.

Make sure your oil pump turns easily.

 

[racerxxx]

The best way to fix the bubbles in your fuel lines............USE BLACK FUEL LINE. Never understand why guys insist on using see thru fuel line. Out of all the skis I've built and worked on I've never once used see thru fuel line. Yes, it all fits with hose clamps and the stock air box.


Glad you're catching all this stuff, it's amazing what previous owners half ass on their boats and skis. It's not really that important to make it back to the dock at the end of the day, right?


If you need microfiche to see what and how your boat should have Factory Seadoo Microfiche

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The best way to fix the bubbles in your air lines............USE BLACK FUEL LINE. Never understand why guys insist on using see thru fuel line. Out of all the skis I've built and worked on I've never once used see thru fuel line. Yes, it all fits with hose clamps and the stock air box.


Glad you're catching all this stuff, it's amazing what previous owners half ass on their boats and skis. It's not really that important to make it back to the dock at the end of the day, right?


If you need microfiche to see what and how your boat should have Factory Seadoo Microfiche

My siphon hoses are clear.

 

[racerxxx]

My siphon hoses are clear.

Fixed it.....fuel lines. Talking shop with a buddy about airlines and typed it, LOL My bad.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I agree though, bilge fuel lines shouldn't be clear hose.

 

[mejim707]

So this thread took a few turns. But back to the original question about air in the fuel lines. Since I opened the fuel system to replace the fuel filter with the water separator, and to rebuild the carburetors, do I need to do anything special to prime the fuel lines? Or can I simply run the starter for 10 second intervals to get the fuel pumped up through the system?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Nothing special concerning bleeding or purging fuel lines, fire it up.

 

[mejim707]

Awesome thanks! Last thing before I fire it up. I noticed the oil pump is slightly off on its adjustment. Is this too rich of oil? I don’t mind a slight amount more for longevity sake but so long as it’s not too much. It looks to me like it’s 1/16 higher/richer and not dead on the mark.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yes, that;s just a hair in the rich side. I did that to mine as well. Can't do it too much else at WOT it begins to cut the oil off.

 

[mejim707]

Ok! I got it running and it seems to idle good? How does this sound? I did rev it slightly twice. It seems very responsive.
Dropbox - boat.mov - Simplify your life

Also, am I allowing too much water in when running it on the hose if the stream is exiting like this?

Lastly, and this may be my most feared question. After looking everything over a little bit ago I noticed the parts diagram calls out for loctite 767 on both ends of the oil pump shaft. I failed to do this and I was being so careful with everything dangit. Will this cause the shaft to break prematurely?

Thanks again everyone!

 

[mejim707]

Yes, that;s just a hair in the rich side. I did that to mine as well. Can't do it too much else at WOT it begins to cut the oil off.

Thanks for the help Sportster!

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I adjust water pressure so water just begins to pee out of the tell-tale (tattle-tale?) fitting.

Really though, you don't need to run for more than a minute to know something;s not right, thus you don't need water, IMO. Water running with engine is really for reverse flushing salt and clogged debris like leaves sucked up into the cooling system.

The problem with running for more than a minute on trailer is not just engine and exhaust heat but also carbon drive shaft seal overheating, so spray that too, to keep it cool if running longer than a minute.

The engine sounds good, go put it on the water when you get a chance.

I don't know about the oil pump shaft and lock tight, sorry.

 

[mejim707]

I adjust water pressure so water just begins to pee out of the tell-tale (tattle-tale?) fitting.

Really though, you don't need to run for more than a minute to know something;s not right, thus you don't need water, IMO. Water running with engine is really for reverse flushing salt and clogged debris like leaves sucked up into the cooling system.

The problem with running for more than a minute on trailer is not just engine and exhaust heat but also carbon drive shaft seal overheating, so spray that too, to keep it cool if running longer than a minute.

The engine sounds good, go put it on the water when you get a chance.

I don't know about the oil pump shaft and lock tight, sorry.

Ok, yeah i was afraid I had too much water coming ut of the tell-tale. I had someone working the hose and I was very explicit to watch the tell-tale and allow only a small stream out. When I was capturing the video I stood up and it was that huge stream. Do you think this could have cause engine damage? The engine starts up with no issues still.

I'm trying to get this on the lake today. Just going over some final stuff and waiting for a few people to head down with me. The only issue right now is that the tach does not work. Not sure why, but it's not reading RPMs. Im not planning on going full bore today so I don't think over revving it will be an issue. But I do want to get that resolved.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

[JeremyD615]

You’re fine with the hose water. The real problems come about when the hose is on and the motor is not running... To be honest I never even hook the hose up on mine unless I’m trying to back flush them. The carbon seal will burn up before the motor overheats anyway, so I just run them for less than a minute and then haul them out to the water. This also avoids the situation where you’re running on the hose and the motor does for whatever reason. That’s a fairly common occurrence, and it’s a pain to deal with once it happens.

Also, you’ve got a rev limiter on the ski, there’s no danger in over revving them if all of the stock electronics are in place. You’ll tag the limiter the first time the pump comes out of the water whether you’ve got the tach working or not. The 96XP’s don’t even have a tach from the factory...

 

[mejim707]

You’re fine with the hose water. The real problems come about when the hose is on and the motor is not running... To be honest I never even hook the hose up on mine unless I’m trying to back flush them. The carbon seal will burn up before the motor overheats anyway, so I just run them for less than a minute and then haul them out to the water. This also avoids the situation where you’re running on the hose and the motor does for whatever reason. That’s a fairly common occurrence, and it’s a pain to deal with once it happens.

Also, you’ve got a rev limiter on the ski, there’s no danger in over revving them if all of the stock electronics are in place. You’ll tag the limiter the first time the pump comes out of the water whether you’ve got the tach working or not. The 96XP’s don’t even have a tach from the factory...

Awesome! So I figure I should be ok then. I only ran it for about a minute yesterday but in like 10-30 second intervals with about 1 minute total.

As for the tach, that’s good news on the limiter. Do you know if these challengers have a tach fuse I can check? I’ve seen mentions of this but so far I can’t locate one.

Thanks again!

 

[JeremyD615]

I’m really not sure on the tachs for the challengers. How many wires are coming out of them? I believe there is a three wire tach and a four wire.

 

[mejim707]

I’m really not sure on the tachs for the challengers. How many wires are coming out of them? I believe there is a three wire tach and a four wire.

It’s 3. Two for power it seems and a signal. It does light up when I put the key on and it pulses slightly when I start it but then nothing after that. The connector on the mag seems good and nothing was broken on the pickup. I’ll keep tinkering with it.