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99 GSX Resonator melted.

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SabrToothSqrl

SabrToothSqrl

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Yep, my resonator has a thumb sized hole in it. I've now spent the last 3 hours ripping out the exhaust system. AND IT'S STILL NOT OUT. my hands are bleeding and I'm shot.

I need to know the least # of parts, and which parts i need, or I'm thinking just a marine dealer and find some 90s or bent exhaust hose that fits.

There is NO WAY to get this back in and covered with foam. 3 hours of foam ripping I have a huge mess and still can't get it out. I'd like to cut it into chunks but my saws-all is too big. I'll stop at sears on my way home Friday and look for a dremel sized saw. How the hell did seadoo do this to us?!! The GSX is the only one like this. The rear have fairly easy access.

I was so stupid to melt it, but can't change that now. The piece that exits the hull, yea, I should prolly get that new too.

Ohh, and I bent the driveshaft on my XP sucking up a rope. Same weekend.

ALL summer not a single issue. Burned over 12 gallons of oil. Must have been a full moon.
 
SabrToothSqrl said:
Yep, my resonator has a thumb sized hole in it. I've now spent the last 3 hours ripping out the exhaust system. AND IT'S STILL NOT OUT. my hands are bleeding and I'm shot.

I need to know the least # of parts, and which parts i need, or I'm thinking just a marine dealer and find some 90s or bent exhaust hose that fits.

There is NO WAY to get this back in and covered with foam. 3 hours of foam ripping I have a huge mess and still can't get it out. I'd like to cut it into chunks but my saws-all is too big. I'll stop at sears on my way home Friday and look for a dremel sized saw. How the hell did seadoo do this to us?!! The GSX is the only one like this. The rear have fairly easy access.

I was so stupid to melt it, but can't change that now. The piece that exits the hull, yea, I should prolly get that new too.

Ohh, and I bent the driveshaft on my XP sucking up a rope. Same weekend.

ALL summer not a single issue. Burned over 12 gallons of oil. Must have been a full moon.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't bother replacing the resonator. I personally bypassed it with schedule 40 PVC, which a few members here criticized, claiming I could simply obtain a hose that went from the waterbox to the thru-hull fitting. They did so with laughter. Still haven't had a response on that one. No magic part for me. Maybe yours is different.

To bypass the resonator I used 3 45 degree couplings (thicker anyways) and two very short pieces of schedule 40 to accomplish the task. Using 2 45s instead of a 90 allows for a nice bend. I led with a 45, used the short piece of pvc to connect to the 2 45s that were joined as male/female and one more straight piece to connect to the exit.

If the 99 is different, you might be able to use a different bypass, but in my years of racing and fabbing third party exhaust, I dealt with pvc that was shipped from the performance part makers. You MUST use PVC cement, otherwise even the tightest fitting can fail. Also make sure you are running cool, but I guarantee if PVC fails from heat, that a lot of other stuff did too.

250.jpg


No way I would pay to put that junk resonator back in there.



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
I kluged together a PVC exhaust system once on a friends small block mercruiser stern drive using volvo-penta exhaust logs, still works fine.
Click to expand...

That's awesome. I am going to remember that one. :)

Yeah, in cool systems it can work pretty good. It doesn't transfer heat to other parts and is made to withstand high water temps. Super cheap too. One of the comments my critics made was that it would have cost less to use the magic hose than to by pass it, then sent me an eBay link to an 80 dollar resonator. PVC parts? 12 dollars and 2.97 in glue. Nice..

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4
 
OldSchool said:
That's awesome. I am going to remember that one. :)

Yeah, in cool systems it can work pretty good. It doesn't transfer heat to other parts and is made to withstand high water temps. Super cheap too. One of the comments my critics made was that it would have cost less to use the magic hose than to by pass it, then sent me an eBay link to an 80 dollar resonator. PVC parts? 12 dollars and 2.97 in glue. Nice..

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4
Click to expand...

Yeah, funny thing is, he brought the PVC over with his boat, I had cast iron pipe ready to cut but he wanted to try the PVC.
 
thank you for the description and photos old school!

Normally I'd laugh at PVC exhaust, however the factory stuff is.. plastic, so... why not? What does schedule 80 offer or ABS? Are they any more heat proof?

I like the 45s and cheap materials. This will be my plan of attack. problem is, I have to remove the resonator, or at least cut enough of it out to bypass it. Had I had a tool to just hack at the thing I would have and not remove 200 lbs of foam from the ski! it's such a mess! I should have just bought a corded dremel and a cut off wheel and just started hacking at it. Too late now! But I can still hack it to bits and saw it up for some therapy.

I do NOT intend to try to find another resonator, even if I could, there's no way I'm fighting with that thing again. My hands HURT so bad, and the damn thing is STILL not out of the hull.

I tested to find the leak by bypassing the resonator, strait out the top of the ski! when I did that and no longer saw smoke in the bilge, I knew the leak was after the large rubber hose for 100%.

I'm seriously considering just drilling a hole in the fiberglass and running the exhaust strait out the side! I could only find ONE other post from 2005 on another forum about someone who got one of these things OUT of a GSX LTD.

Ohh; and I know the drive shaft is bent because anything above idle vibrates the whole ski. Not so bad that I can't use it, but seriously annoying, and I know that eventually it would ruin other bearings and such. I ordered one from OSD Parts w/10% off coupon. New. ended up same price as most on eBay, or a bit more, but hey; I like new parts.


IMG_3888.jpg

IMG_3889.jpg
 
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Strike that. A Dremel is like $90.

a harbor freight Dremel is like $10.

for the ONE thing I need to cut in 1/2. $10 it is! with 20% off coupon AND free flashlight!
 
I would have used a hand saw rather than a power tool, like one of those pointy hand saws
 
I did it using 2 new hack saw blades, with tape wrapped around one end. I also tried a mini hack saw (Kobald) that worked good but wasnt deep enough to get all the way through.

I split mine in the middle and pulled from the center.

While on this topic, I am curious to hear ideas on the foam replacement.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4
 
yea; I'm not replacing any foam! if I can hack just enough of it to get the new PVC in, it's not even coming out. I have 20 lbs of foam in the hull, on the floor, and I am calling it quits on that effort.
 
You could also sweat some pieces of copper pipe together and use short pieces of radiator hose possitlby, for connecting the ends if need be.

Copper pipe would be a bit more expensive though, and once painted gloss black looks the same pretty much.
 
Is this something that can affect a 98, too? Didn't they change the exhaust in 99 to quiet it down?
 
I had a 99 gsx and ripped the whole thing out. You have to cut it in sections. It has a lip on it so its actually up higher than u think. I bypassed it with a exhaust hose from a xp and a 90* elbow from a xp as well. It worked great and sounds nice. Let me see if I can find the pics for you.

There is a reason though that your box melted, check the water lines from the water reg. on the waterbox. Something has to be clogged.
 
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He needs to find the water restriction or clog or he will melt a hole in that as well......

Here is a write up I did years ago in another forum: To remove the resonator, you will need a long flat tip screwdriver, pliers, a blow torch, a knife with a wooden handle and a 12 pack of beer( you will find out why)

The first step was to remove the exhaust pipe from the water box to the resonator. It is easier to remove the electric box and move it to the side. I kept the VTS in and had no problems. After removing the pipe, there is also a smaller rubber coupler that connects the resonator to the exhaust outlet. I used a HOT knife to cut this part of the resonator outlet tube off. Then from the outside of the hull where your steering nozzle is you can unscrew and remove the exhaust outlet.

Next, You have to remove all of the foam on top and under the resonator. This is the fun part. Using a screw driver, pliers, and anything that can break and pry out foam I removed all of the foam. The resonator has a lip on it that fits under the foot well( see pic) and even with most of the foam removed, it wont come out. With all of the foam out to about the carbs, I used the hot knife again to cut the resonator in half. It takes a lot of time b/c the plastic is thick and that upper lip is tricky. The long screwdriver, worked the best to reach into the resonator.

After cutting it in half, I removed the bilge pump outlet and hose for more room. After a lot of tugging and pulling the resonator slipped out. The second half of it that is behind the carbs will pull out easily.
 
that was your post from 2005?!

anyway; the restriction was the 200 pounds of sea-weed in the impeller!

I'd like to know the PVC size because there is a hardware store right next to my office. If I have to go home and grab that hose or a piece of the exhaust then I have to go home, then drive back out.

I can save time/gas by knowing what it is.

I want to say 3" but I think it's 2.5"

And yes; after I get it all fitted / cut to length it will get a coat of ACE rust gloss black to make it look OEM

2.5" it is.

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/seadooexhausthose25x325274000530.aspx

that's the one between the stinger and muffler, but i'm 99.9% sure the exhaust is all the same size on it's way back.

I'll get 3' of 2.5" (you can never have enough laying around at home, right?

and 3 45 degree bends.

and some new PVC glue. I have some, but this has to hold for another ... 3.. maybe 4 years lol.

I guess that just leaves..

Schedule 40, 80, or 120?

looks like 80, and then 120 get thicker. I'll check at the hardware store.
 
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If there's still any doubt on the size to get, grab both. Use what you need and return the other when you go back to work on Monday. Anything to save burning that gas back and forth!
 
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