98 gtxl mag cylinder full of gas and clean plug.

[BizzleMalaka]

Brief recap:
New to small motors/2-strokes/marine craft
Bought cheap this winter as is.
Replaced grey fuel lines and injector lines and filters.
Cleaned and re-assembled carbs with all existing parts (everything looked good)

Note: mag side hi jet was all the way in but pto side was .5 turn out so I returned it there after cleaning.

Cleaned tanks and replaced oil and gas with proper. New plugs.
New battery, greased pto and coupler etc.

Testing:

Idled too low and stalled.
Tightened the slack in throttle cable, no joy.
Read to adjust the throttle screw so I turned it in until it it was about 3000rpm out and 1500rpm in water (as per dash)
But I also read the throttle screw should just touch while I had to spin mine in several full turns past that.

On the water it only does 28mph and stall when returning to idle from wot.

Didn’t have time to check the plugs that day or for another week.
Pto side plug was black and mag side looked new still.

Thought I’d confirm I have spark put when turned it over with the plugs out a bunch of gas shot out of the mag side cylinder (maybe a cup half at least)

Full disclosure I was today years old when I learned the fuel shut off should be you know “shut off” when not in use.

I know that’s a lot but where do I start? Recheck the carbs to see if I assembled them wrong or mixed up a line?
Bite the $200 Canadian bullet and rebuild the carbs with mikuni kits?

I don’t have a pop off tester but I assumed putting the same springs etc back would be fine…

Other potential simple fixes I should investigate first ?

Thanks in advance.

 

[mikidymac]

Do the carbs correctly, it's almost always the carbs....

Throttle cable should always have slack, it is the idle screw you adjust for idle.

 

[2strokeboy]

Set the screws o factory not what you found. Also don't tighten the cable, set it with the adjuster screw on the carbs

 

[BizzleMalaka]

Do the carbs correctly, it's almost always the carbs....

Throttle cable should always have slack, it is the idle screw you adjust for idle.

I’m thinking your recommending this to fix my idle/power issues but as far as the one cylinder being full of gas, is that normal if the shutoff is left on, and after blowing most of it out by turning over with plugs out am I good 2 go or will there be fuel in my counterbalance oil?
Just referencing this post: My entire crankcase is full of fuel

 

[2strokeboy]

If your seals are good there should be no fuel in counterbalance. You probably missed something and also you shouldn't just reassmble with old gaskets, get a new kit genuine mikuini only.

 

[2strokeboy]

But I also read the throttle screw should just touch while I had to spin mine in several full turns past that.

Lossen the throttle cable at the front under the steering column.

 

[mikidymac]

I’m thinking your recommending this to fix my idle/power issues but as far as the one cylinder being full of gas, is that normal if the shutoff is left on, and after blowing most of it out by turning over with plugs out am I good 2 go or will there be fuel in my counterbalance oil?
Just referencing this post: My entire crankcase is full of fuel

Being full of gas is because your needle and seat are leaking and will be fixed by rebuilding the carbs correctly.

 

[BizzleMalaka]

Being full of gas is because your needle and seat are leaking and will be fixed by rebuilding the carbs correctly.

Amazon.ca

Is this what/everything I need?

Edit:description says needle and seat not included. Should I be changing those?

 

[burtshaver2021]

Amazon.ca

Is this what/everything I need?

Edit:description says needle and seat not included. Should I be changing those?

Yes you should be changing the needle and seat, osdparts.com for the back to OEM kit for your make and model. Follow Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread which can be found on his profile. Don’t buy any kits off amazon

 

[BizzleMalaka]

Yes you should be changing the needle and seat, osdparts.com for the back to OEM kit for your make and model. Follow Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread which can be found on his profile. Don’t buy any kits off amazon

Thanks I was just looking at those back 2 oem kits. About the same price and they come with base gaskets.

 

[BizzleMalaka]

Yes you should be changing the needle and seat, osdparts.com for the back to OEM kit for your make and model. Follow Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread which can be found on his profile. Don’t buy any kits off amazon

Sorry one more question.
Optional accel pump diaphragm for $15
I’m not bothered about the cost but when I cleaned the carbs I didn’t open the accel pump because I didn’t wanna mess it up lol

Should I get that as well you think, or not mess with it?

Apologies if this is covered in the carb rebuild thread, I’m going to read it(again) now.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Sorry one more question.
Optional accel pump diaphragm for $15
I’m not bothered about the cost but when I cleaned the carbs I didn’t open the accel pump because I didn’t wanna mess it up lol

Should I get that as well you think, or not mess with it?

Apologies if this is covered in the carb rebuild thread, I’m going to read it(again) now.

It’s not covered in the carb rebuild thread, to be honest I’ve never rebuilt an accelerator pump, I don’t think there’s much to it? Maybe just that one diaphragm? I’ve came across one for the first time on my Seadoo Challenger, I pulled the throttle and it squirted gas so I called it good. I’m pretty sure there’s a pressure test in the manual that will tell you if the diaphragm is good but I’m not up on it. If you do happen to change the hose on the accelerator pump though keep the old hose as there’s some type of restrictor jet in it, you would have to put it in the new hose. If it were me, I would go ahead and order that 15.00 part just so I had it, if I was already placing an order. Unless someone else chimes in and says differently

 

[burtshaver2021]

Sorry one more question.
Optional accel pump diaphragm for $15
I’m not bothered about the cost but when I cleaned the carbs I didn’t open the accel pump because I didn’t wanna mess it up lol

Should I get that as well you think, or not mess with it?

Apologies if this is covered in the carb rebuild thread, I’m going to read it(again) now.

I would get it just to have? Even if I ended up not using it

 

[BizzleMalaka]

I would get it just to have? Even if I ended up not using it

Solid wisdom I think. I’ll throw it on and get it ordered so it can start making its way up to Canada while I study the guide.

Thanks again.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Solid wisdom I think. I’ll throw it on and get it ordered so it can start making its way up to Canada while I study the guide.

Thanks again.

I have all my stiff shipped to my us address, I’ve only ever been charged duty once and no crazy import and brokerage fees from the shipping company.

 

[etemplet]

Needle on the PTO carb is not sealing or you have a bad o-ring on the seat. Set the pop off to the correct range then test to make sure the carb is not leaking. Good Luck !

 

[BizzleMalaka]

Yes you should be changing the needle and seat, osdparts.com for the back to OEM kit for your make and model. Follow Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread which can be found on his profile. Don’t buy any kits off amazon

Should I use the new springs in the back to OEM kit? Or re-use the old ones?
I don’t have a pop off tester but the description on osd says you don’t need to mess with pop off with these kits so I’m assuming they sent me the correct springs…

The 2 new springs below an old one:

 

[burtshaver2021]

If your sure you have the right springs for your model then go ahead and use the new springs but keep the old ones just in case.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, new springs but only if they came from OSD.

You need to make a pop-off tester as shown in the carb rebuild thread. This will make sure the needles and seats are sealing and also for the final leak down test.

 

[etemplet]

If you want good performance you'll need to check pop-off and any leakage. I put the proper spring in the carb that the manual calls for and am rarely disappointed. I don't trust any kit, eva.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, the issue is that most people including myself buy the Mikuni kits. The Mikuni kits do not come with any of the springs used in the Seadoo Mikuni carbs, Seadoo had to be different. So most people put in the "new" spring in from the kit b3ecause new must be better than old and now the setting is wrong. OSD is the only "kit" that comes with the correct springs.

 

[BizzleMalaka]

Yes, new springs but only if they came from OSD.

You need to make a pop-off tester as shown in the carb rebuild thread. This will make sure the needles and seats are sealing and also for the final leak down test.

Okay I’m hearing you guys, I’ll build buy a pop off tester today.

I might be waiting for a part anyway. As I was taking the old check valves off the metering blocks, I sheard the nipple of the little plate.(or it already was) as when I turned the screw the plate and valve spun.

What is this part called and where could I get one? I couldn’t find it on osd
Or what do you think, can I just line it up and snug it down?

 

[mikidymac]

Never seen one of those break.
Ebay maybe? Westside Powersports Seadoo?

 

[BizzleMalaka]

Never seen one of those break.
Ebay maybe? Westside Powersports Seadoo?

Boy it’s not easy up here in Bombardièr land.
Finally found one that’s not $20+ usd for shipping but won’t be here for 2 weeks.

I have a ‘92 sp that’s not running right on the water either. I’m going to order a carb rebuild kit for it too but will it’s metering block have the same plate that I can steal to get my GTX on the water?

I’m pretty sure my (also not currently seaworthy) 96 xp has the same ones but it seems to be running fine, it just has a water leak somewhere and a seized vts motor, so I’d rather steal from the sp…

Thanks Mac!

 

[mikidymac]

No, your 951 carbs are different than your other skis.