98 GTX Ltd sea doo sitting for over 8 years

[Grim]

I have been reading on the forum, the wear ring, it seems like I should check the tolerance and make sure there is no damage....? Anything else in that area I should check, since it has been sitting for so long.
Also, any suggestions on grease for the steering and forward/neutral/reverse rods, they look like they need some grease.
Lastly, I keep seeing people talk about a zip tie for clamps on fuel/oil hoses, what are those, never seen that before, I have always used metal clamps. Where can I get them, are they worth it?

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, inspect wear ring and impeller, change pump oil.

I use Seadoo XPS grease on everything.

I use the good zip ties with the stainless locking tab and buy from McMaster Carr.

You can also buy the OEM stainless crimp clamps from Home Depot in the plumbing department under the SharkBite name and tile nippers to clamp them down.

 

[andy.262]

I should say that I can't find the 12mm hose at what I consider to be a reasonable price.

Can you not just use standard automotive fuel line from any auto parts store? Just get 1/2" or 5/8" line since they probably wont have metric? I would think that would be sufficient, and as long as the hose is slightly too big instead of slightly too small I would think that it wouldn't cause issues with flow since the system is still limited by the size of the fittings

 

[KyleW2]

Can you not just use standard automotive fuel line from any auto parts store? Just get 1/2" or 5/8" line since they probably wont have metric? I would think that would be sufficient, and as long as the hose is slightly too big instead of slightly too small I would think that it wouldn't cause issues with flow since the system is still limited by the size of the fittings

I tried 1/2” line instead but to me, it was too loose for comfort around the fitting. I’m sure it would work though if you clamp it well enough.

 

[mikidymac]

No you don't want to use fuel line for the oil lines.

Just buy the correct stuff as it isn't very expensive. For the larger oil lines there is no reason to change then unless they are damaged. The only oil lines that you need to change are the 3/32" ones from the oil pump to the intake manifold.

 

[etemplet]

Can you not just use standard automotive fuel line from any auto parts store? Just get 1/2" or 5/8" line since they probably wont have metric? I would think that would be sufficient, and as long as the hose is slightly too big instead of slightly too small I would think that it wouldn't cause issues with flow since the system is still limited by the size of the fittings

12mm is .480" not .500" like 1/2". The last clear stuff I bought was 1/2" and I had trouble getting it to seal on the fitting. Small oil leaks add up big over time. I like to clear stuff for whatever reason. I hate paying the money these thieves want for the right stuff but that is what works best.

 

[etemplet]

I tried 1/2” line instead but to me, it was too loose for comfort around the fitting. I’m sure it would work though if you clamp it well enough.

I had a dang leak that was difficult to stop. If you try to buy the tubing by material grade what you'll end up with will be too rigid and it won't seal properly. I've had no luck with this stuff.

 

[mikidymac]

I buy the OEM hose from seadoo for $2.75 per foot so for under $20 you can do an entire ski and the lines will be the correct size and last another 20+ years.

275000008
Hose 12 mm (Meter)
MSRP: $8.29
Dealer Price: $8.29

It is sold by the meter so divide the $8.29 by 3.

 

[Grim]

Next question, the handle bar plastic cover and the grab bar on the back of the seat are really faded, any ideas on how to recondition/paint or whatever to make them look better? Grab bar is black and handle bar is maroon

 

[Grim]

I am a little puzzled, where do the hoses on the screen bailer go, the parts diagram doesn't show it. I only have about six inches of hose on each one, the rest is missing. Also what is its function, how does it work... can they be cleaned, mine has been sitting in oil and gunk an long time.
Lastly, when i inspect the rave valves, are there orings/parts i should replace, for good measure?

 

[POPPS]

Yes, there is an "O" ring under the rave valves,,,they most likely have hardened, I usually bite on them, and if I can make an indentation, I replace them, you don' t need to go to the dealer for them,

 

[Grim]

anyone know where the hoses on the black screen bailer end up....mine are missing. These are the two black boxes on the bottom of the inside of the boat, about the size of a cigarette pack. I think they help to move the waters out from around the engine, helping with the draining. Also anyone have a good method of cleaning them.

 

[mikidymac]

They are your bilge pump and siphon water out so the ski doesn't sink or fill up with water.
There is a hose that goes from the plastic boxes on the bottom up to the top of the hull to two plastic 90's that are typically yellow or black with a small hole in them to prevent siphoning water into the hull. Then another hose goes from the 90's down to the back of the inside of the ski to where the pump is to two barbed fittings then out into the pump to

 

[Grim]

I'm dissembling the carbs for rebuild, the plate that joins both carbs is being stubborn. Two of the screws, ironically on same carb, come loose. but the other two won't budge. One is stripped, seems like someone has tried this before. The other screw will no budge. any ideas how to loosen the good screw and any good methods of drilling out the stripped on?
Any recommendation for a good place to buy the rebuild kit.

 

[mikidymac]

Vise Grip pliers work good if you can get them on the heads of the screws.

The easiest one stop shopping is OSD seadoo for the Back tot OEM carb kits.

 

[andy.262]

I'm dissembling the carbs for rebuild, the plate that joins both carbs is being stubborn. Two of the screws, ironically on same carb, come loose. but the other two won't budge. One is stripped, seems like someone has tried this before. The other screw will no budge. any ideas how to loosen the good screw and any good methods of drilling out the stripped on?
Any recommendation for a good place to buy the rebuild kit.

Are these the JIS screws? They can be identified by the small dimple in the screw head like the image below. If so, a phillips screwdriver WILL strip them, almost guaranteed. I, like many before me, looked at them and thought "there's no way that's different from a phillips head" and then proceeded to strip the screw. You will need to get a JIS screwdriver in order to loosen them without stripping. You will get the screwdriver and it will look identical to a phillips. I promise, it isn't - you have a far greater chance of success with the JIS screwdriver. These JIS screws are in a bunch of different places on SeaDoo carbs and the screwdrivers are not that expensive so in my opinion they are well worth it.



As far as the one that's already stripped, I'd probably just drill it. Start with a very small drill bit and work your way larger until it comes loose. That is the best technique that I have found.

 

[Grim]

Are these the JIS screws? They can be identified by the small dimple in the screw head like the image below. If so, a phillips screwdriver WILL strip them, almost guaranteed. I, like many before me, looked at them and thought "there's no way that's different from a phillips head" and then proceeded to strip the screw. You will need to get a JIS screwdriver in order to loosen them without stripping. You will get the screwdriver and it will look identical to a phillips. I promise, it isn't - you have a far greater chance of success with the JIS screwdriver. These JIS screws are in a bunch of different places on SeaDoo carbs and the screwdrivers are not that expensive so in my opinion they are well worth it.

View attachment 54135

As far as the one that's already stripped, I'd probably just drill it. Start with a very small drill bit and work your way larger until it comes loose. That is the best technique that I have found.

i figured they would be JIS screws but they are not...just hard as heck to remove...anyone use heat to see if they will come out easier?

 

[mikidymac]

Hand impact driver, the ones you hit with a hammer is the way to go on those screws.

 

[Grim]

Hand impact driver, the ones you hit with a hammer is the way to go on those screws.

Sweet, I don't have one, so I guess I'll have to go out and get one now!

 

[Grim]

New question...I have been reading about the oil used to mix with the gas...but i cant find if this type is good for my 951...any ideas?

It is Quicksilver Full synthetic 2 stroke PWC oil. all it states is that it exceeds JASO FD and ISO EGD, nothing about ash content.

I found it at Walmart, the closest sea doo place is about an hour from me. If this isn't any good, does someone have a few suggestions of where i can get the right oil and what brand it is? I'll see if they are closer to me.

 

[mikidymac]

Really no reason to go premix unless you want the trouble and more oil use but that is up to each owner.

To answer the oil debate, if it doesn't say full synthetic API-TC on the oil then it isn't the correct oil.

Amazon sells Sedoo XPS full synthetic.

 

[Grim]

Really no reason to go premix unless you want the trouble and more oil use but that is up to each owner.

To answer the oil debate, if it doesn't say full synthetic API-TC on the oil then it isn't the correct oil.

Amazon sells Sedoo XPS full synthetic.

I'm not doing premix, just looking for the correct oil to put in the tank. I looked at that but it seems pricey at $53 a gallon!

 

[mikidymac]

Is $1,000 pricy for a new engine?

You really need to use the correct oil. The oil injection system will yield around 80:1 gas to oil ratio.
$53 for a gallon of oil to 80 gallons of fuel at $2.50 per gallon is $200 in fuel, $250 total as opposed to $230. So that $20 more you spend on the correct oil isn't really costing much in the long run.

 

[Grim]

Is $1,000 pricy for a new engine?

You really need to use the correct oil. The oil injection system will yield around 80:1 gas to oil ratio.
$53 for a gallon of oil to 80 gallons of fuel at $2.50 per gallon is $200 in fuel, $250 total as opposed to $230. So that $20 more you spend on the correct oil isn't really costing much in the long run.

I am going to use the right oil for sure, that is why I asked about it. I just know that brand name oils are usually overprice and there are usually off brand oils that are the same but cheaper. I just don't know what they are.

 

[Grim]

Little confused on the oil . I have seen several oils that say they are API-TC and TC-W3 compatible, how can you have this, should I stay away from them?