That's going to require taking off the impossible gasket... When I pulled the pump cover off last night, that gasket is stuck to the housing. Guess it is another $20 kit if I have to go that route.
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98 GSX Limited- Fuel Return Fitting Broken
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JeremyD615
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Wait a minute, what’s the $20 kit? Did you rebuild the carbs with aftermarket parts? If so, you’re going to have to tear them back down and buy the Mikuni stuff. You’ll never get it running right until you do that...
No. OSB has a gasket kit that has the pump housing gasket, plastic sheet, large O ring (that I needed) and diaphragms that go on the other side of the fuel block valve
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
Okay, gotcha! You’re going to have to pull that carb apart one way or another, since you can’t run it with that leak. Something is either installed incorrectly or physically damaged somehow. Carb parts are still available, so you can fix whatever it is, but you’ll have to dig in to find out what to repair/replace.
Let me test this theory against your experience....
When I got the pump rebuild kit, I left the throttle cable attached to the bracket on the pump housing when reinstalling. Is it possible that the bracket wasn't sitting flush and is creating the gap?
It ran perfectly once before the pump O ring busted.
Also....could these screws back out on their own? Are you supposed to put some kind of grease or something on them to keep them from backing out??
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
I don’t think it’s the bracket. I can’t see how it would create a gap there... I’ve also never seen carb screws back out on their own. Usually they’re a pain to get to break free, so it’s normally the opposite problem.
I’ve had some fuel pumps not seal well in the past, but never had one actually squirt fuel out of it. Every time I’ve seen it, the leak was letting air in rather than fuel out...
I’ve had some fuel pumps not seal well in the past, but never had one actually squirt fuel out of it. Every time I’ve seen it, the leak was letting air in rather than fuel out...
Took the fuel pump assembly apart and inspected everything. All looked good and in the same order as the exploded views on line. Put it back together and fired it up. No leaks. Took it to the pond and it ran awesome!! Here's the pic I snapped of the spark plugs..look good to me, right?
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JeremyD615
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Good deal! Sometimes you just have to take them apart and reset everything to get them to seal up. The plugs look okay from what I can see, but the insulator is what you should really be looking at.
Got to the lake today and rode hard for an hour and a half. Huge thrill to hit 69 on speedometer (58 on GPS) knowing I got it there (with your help @mikidymac and @JeremyD615 . ) thank you!
As I was cruising back to boat ramp, it would sporadically stall...like lose power then rev back up almost like it was running out of gas. I switched to reserve, did nothing. It finally stuck where I couldn't go over 3600 rpms or so as I was almost at the boat ramp. Parked, then cranked it and rode on the trailer and it felt better, but I couldn't step on it to see....
Could RAVE valve's be sticking??
As I was cruising back to boat ramp, it would sporadically stall...like lose power then rev back up almost like it was running out of gas. I switched to reserve, did nothing. It finally stuck where I couldn't go over 3600 rpms or so as I was almost at the boat ramp. Parked, then cranked it and rode on the trailer and it felt better, but I couldn't step on it to see....
Could RAVE valve's be sticking??
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JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
Try unplugging the red wire from the rectifier and see how it runs. Your battery will not be charging, but you’re fine to ride for 20 minutes or so like that and see how it acts. If that fixes it, you need to replace that rectifier...
Thank you. Will give it a try tomorrow
Google says the rectifier on 98 GSX limited is internal. I assume I can check by removing the red wire i underlined from the post i circled. Is that right?
If that is the issue....OSD says they have a plug in play harness that adds an external rectifier. Any chance that would work?
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JeremyD615
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I forgot about those internal regulators! Use a multimeter and check your voltage at 4000-5000 rpm and see where it’s at. If it’s above 14.5V, then we need to dig in further.
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From what I'm reading, having 14.38V while revving is a good sign for my rectifier. When these things fail, is it usually a gradual fade from working to broken...or does it just stop?
From other google searches, RAVE solenoid could be a culprit, but seems to me that a solenoid failure would be all or nothing...not sporadic....but maybe not. I guess you test it by putting current on both sides and listening for a click?
My big weekend is this weekend. The whole reason I started getting this thing together...any help is greatly appreciated.
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
Your rectifier is testing okay. I’m not real familiar with the solenoid operates raves, so hopefully one of the other guys will jump in with some info on the testing procedures for those...
I bought the external rectifier and have put maybe 2 hours on the ski this weekend running perfect. Last trip out it started cutting out again on the top end and giving a 12V low on starting up and getting going. Any ideas?
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
Definitely swap the plugs, but I don’t think that’s the cause of the issue. I think you’ve still got an electrical issue if it was running fine right after the rectifier swap... Have you done a test on the stator yet?
No, I haven't started testing stator yet.
I found this thread: 1997 GTX Blowing 5 amp
and following discussion. Could you help me understand "continuity to ground" when checking stator?
Also, I'm checking ohms between every combo of pins on the plug, right? (1 & 2, 1 & 3, 2&1, 2&3, etc)?
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
The continuity to ground is just a simple check to see if the wire you are probing is grounding. You’ll put your meter on the continuity setting and put one probe on the wire and the other on a ground. The meter will normally give a reading of either “1” which means there is no continuity, or a number approaching zero, which means the circuit does have continuity with ground.
Thanks! And for resistance among the pins...am I thinking about that right?
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
Yes, you are checking resistance between all of the yellow wires. You should get .1-1ohm between any of those wires.
I checked the stator last night using the tests above. I got .7 ohms on all combination of wires and no continuity to ground.
When I google failing stator one of the things that is mentioned is that when they start going, you get symptoms like I have after it has been running for a while. Since it typically hasn't had issues at initial start up, could it be bad test results?
When I google failing stator one of the things that is mentioned is that when they start going, you get symptoms like I have after it has been running for a while. Since it typically hasn't had issues at initial start up, could it be bad test results?
@JeremyD615 - you think the "failing" stator could test okay but give issues once it is warmed up? If so, would taking the multimeter to the lake and testing when it is acting up the better way to do this?
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