97 GTX Low Voltage Display & No Start

[jkm3093]

Hi All,

Currently my 97 GTX is giving me fits: It displays low voltage & previously would crank while displaying, then later the starter solenoid would only click, and now no clicking or anything. Battery is good & I get the 2 beeps when I plug the safety switch lanyard plug on. The battery is reading 12.5 volts & drops to 12.3 volts when I press the start button. I am trying to trace if I have a bad cable or connection somewhere, but also think it could be a bad electronic module. I opened the rear electrrical box & found the seal was out of its groove & water was standing in it with a lot of corrosion on the solenoid & ground terminal. I cleaned all the connections - no change. There is no voltage drop through the positive cables from / to the battery - solenoid - starter.

I tried to trace a bad ground but haven't gotten very far - the wiring diagram doesn't show a ground wire going from the battery to the front electrical box. A light guage ground wire goes to the ignition coil & solenoid in the rear box (good continuity) & the heavy ground wire goes to the starter motor - is the engine block the common ground for the electronics?

The fuses in the front electrical box are both good, but since the module is potted it isn't easy to check voltages / continuity etc. there.

As I write this, I think the corroded starter solenoid might be the problem (I sure hope so!!) & will next check if I get positive voltage at the Y/R wire when I press the start button, & jumper across the solenoid to see if the starter will crank properly. But, that still doesn't explain the low voltage display this sled has shown for a long time even before it totally quit.

Any ideas or feedback is appreciated!! Thanks, Jim

 

[kustomkarl]

Yes Jim, the engine is the main ground. Be sure that wire is clean and getting a good connection. I would make sure the battery isn't the culprit. It could have a bad cell and still show 12+ volts. If not sure have it LOAD tested at like Auto Zone for free. The main power feeds through the starter solenoid. If the terminal is corroded it might be part of the problem also.

Keep us posted on the problem.

Karl

 

[jkm3093]

Karl - Thanks for your reply. When I first started getting the low voltage display I replaced the battery with new - no change. I checked the voltage in the front electrical box fuse socket to the ground in the fuse box & it was only 0.01 V less than at the battery. The starter solenoid connectors in the rear box are clean & when I jumper the solenoid the starter cranks strong.

The infocenter display seems to be working OK so I don't think that is it, but I am not sure. I am starting to conclude it is the electronic module, but don't want to go buy a new one until I am convinced that is the problem. Any ideas how to diagnose these components?

Thanks, Jim

 

[kustomkarl]

Jim, if the solenoid was only clicking and when you jumped over the 2 wires going direct and it rolled the starter, than the solenoid might be the problem. You could also check the wires coming from the start/ stop switch to be sure they are not corroded, but it sounds like the solenoid is bad. Bypassing it proves it is in the circuit leading up to and including the starter.
Let me know how you make out.

Karl

 

[jkm3093]

Karl,

I sure hope you are right since a solenoid won't break the bank like a MPEM will at $650!!!. I tried another test that suggests you are right - I disconnected the Y/R wire from the MPEM and jumpered 12V to it going to the soln'd which gave a little spark but no clicking. Therefore it looks like the soln'd is bad - Yeah!!! I'm not surprised since water got into the rear box. The coil doesn't look so great either but I'm not far enough along to know if I got spark.

However - I am still confused by another test. I left the Y/R wire disconnected and still have the low voltage display when I hit the start button??? I hope high current draw through the MPEM due to a bad soln'd didn't fry something.

I called my local Seadoo dealership & they said they can troubleshoot the MPEM by hooking it up to their computer - is that right?

Thanks for your help.

 

[jkm3093]

Problem Solved!

:hurray: Well, since the entire rear electrical box had taken in water submerging the relay and coil, I replaced the whole thing and it started right up even after sitting three years. Even the low voltage display went away!

A mechanic I spoke to said this is pretty common for the rear box to take in water so I drilled some drain holes in the bottom.

Thanks, Karl for you input.:cheers:

 

[kustomkarl]

DON'T DRILL HOLES IN THE MPEM BOX! The idea of the "sealed box" is to keep any moisture and water out. Be sure the seal is tight so no water will enter it. If it gets wet you'll be buying another one real soon.

Karl

 

[jkm3093]

DON'T DRILL HOLES IN THE MPEM BOX!

I didn't. That box is in the front in this ski. The rear electrical box carries the high current / high voltage components only, i.e. starter relay and ignition coil. The seal design is really poor in this box so drain holes are the lesser of two evils.

Jim

 

[kustomkarl]

Ok, but I still wouldn't allow any water to enter the electrical box as it will only cause corrosion and condinsation....which is not good.

Karl

 

[jkm3093]

OK - you're right, I guess I'll plug the small drain holes I drilled & inspect often for water in the box now that I'm aware of the problem.