My XP won't fire up without a charger on the battery. It will turn over pretty good once it gets past the compression stroke but I won't have spark.(spare plug on the lead) I just realized yesterday that every time I pull a plug out to check for spark with the plug I pulled, IT FIRES UP!!. That has happened 4 0r 5 times in the past but I always thought it was an intermitant ignition issue. Now I'm thinking it has to do with the drain my battery is getting from cranking is taking power from the ignition system. Any thoughts on that from the Gurus? It will start occaisionally with the charger on high and I haven't tried it for 15 minutes or so. (Fully charged Battery).
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96 XP won't fire without charger
- Thread starter trox
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rotaxrule1
Well-Known Member
eek, I would not run the charger while you are trying to start it. It supplies ~14.5 and alot more amperage than your battery does. Seems like I read that you will burn your starter relay and parts inside your electrical box since they are not designed to see anything above 12.5 volts (circuit is open only before engine starts).
Make sure you are using a good battery, or new battery. Make sure it is fully charged BEFORE starting it. Then try to verify again if you get spark by plugging your spark plugs to your wires and grounding the other end to your engine and turning it over. If you have a good battery and it still turns over slow, check your cable going to your starter along with your grounds. Maybe even pop open your electrical box and make sure nothing is corroded.
Anyway, I am sure you will get some better input from the pros. That is where I would start though....
:cheers:
Make sure you are using a good battery, or new battery. Make sure it is fully charged BEFORE starting it. Then try to verify again if you get spark by plugging your spark plugs to your wires and grounding the other end to your engine and turning it over. If you have a good battery and it still turns over slow, check your cable going to your starter along with your grounds. Maybe even pop open your electrical box and make sure nothing is corroded.
Anyway, I am sure you will get some better input from the pros. That is where I would start though....
:cheers:
I think you just need a good battery and need to check to make sure all the connections are good. Sounds like the additional amperage is enough to turn it over. Also NEVER attempt to start it with a charger. You will be lucky if you didnt already fry the MPEM.
I'm picking up a new battery today. If I did any damage to the MPEM, what will show up. I had it running yesterday. I do have a VTS that only clicks when I hit the button. Also the fuel gage shows empty with the light. Checked resistance according to the book and only showed 1.48 ohms with 3/4 of a tank.
rotaxrule1
Well-Known Member
I think if the fuel guage fires up and displays anything and you get the beeps, the. It still sparks when you turn it over, your mpem is probably ok. Check your fuses in the mpem to make sure they are still good. The vts has a fuse up there I know that much.
Ahhh...you didnt mention VTS in the beginning. More than likely the VTS is your problem. A bad VTS will drain the battery even with the lanyard off. Unplug the VTS module or look for the 7.5 amp VTS fuse and pull it. That will eliminate the battery drain. A VTS failure can also cause the MPEM to short.
Get your battery load tested or buy a new one and give it a shot with the VTS module unplugged. Then it should start
Get your battery load tested or buy a new one and give it a shot with the VTS module unplugged. Then it should start
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Some of the cheap sealed batteries do not have enough CCA to power the ignition sys in these CDI systems.
You need to isolate things; Disconnect the VTS and get a good charged battery and test. Once the machine is running good then plug the VTS back in and see what you have; disconnect the VTS motor and connect directly to battery and see what you have.
There are a lot of issues with VTS to deem them bad, but sometimes a dirty connection in the rear ebox, the fuse/holder, and the bullet connector after the fuse holder is to blame for them just clicking. Most blow the fuse...but I have had a few bad ones that wouldnt blow a fuse.
On the fuel sensor, its likely the magnet fell off the float. Put a ohm meter on the two wires; if it shows any number its the magnet, and if it shows open its the sensor. I have many used ones available.
You need to isolate things; Disconnect the VTS and get a good charged battery and test. Once the machine is running good then plug the VTS back in and see what you have; disconnect the VTS motor and connect directly to battery and see what you have.
There are a lot of issues with VTS to deem them bad, but sometimes a dirty connection in the rear ebox, the fuse/holder, and the bullet connector after the fuse holder is to blame for them just clicking. Most blow the fuse...but I have had a few bad ones that wouldnt blow a fuse.
On the fuel sensor, its likely the magnet fell off the float. Put a ohm meter on the two wires; if it shows any number its the magnet, and if it shows open its the sensor. I have many used ones available.
OK, a new battery and she fires right up. Lets back up a bit. Before removing my old battery it showed 12.4 volts on my meter with the 7.5 AMP VTS fuse installed OR removed. Left the fuse in. Hit the button and almost got a full revolution before it clicked out. Removed the 7.5 AMP fuse, same result. Installed the new battery and she fired up. Installed the 7.5 AMP fuse and still fires up. On to the VTS issue. Tried to drive the motor with battery power and got nothin. Removed the motor and it's ugly corroded. Checked for power at the leads when hitting the switch. Got power in both directions after positioning the nozzle in the middle. Have a motor coming from Ebay. If this works, all I'm left with is the fuel gage and VTS gage inop. Still not getting any BEEPS??? Getting close!!
The beeper just needs a good whack or some brake cleaner in the hole and aired out. they usually start working again.
The gauge will only work when the VTS is going...you could plug the key in and turn the VTS by hand with the motor out and test it.
Fuel is likely the baffle in the tank. You'll prob find the magnet has fallen off. When its out you can hook a ohm meter to the two wires and move the float...if the numbers go up and down its working. If you get nothing and the float is good, the baffle needs to be replaced.
If you need parts I have plenty of VTS motors, and I have a mint VTS gauge right now, along with some faded ones that are cheaper. I also have baffles if its junk and beepers too.
The gauge will only work when the VTS is going...you could plug the key in and turn the VTS by hand with the motor out and test it.
Fuel is likely the baffle in the tank. You'll prob find the magnet has fallen off. When its out you can hook a ohm meter to the two wires and move the float...if the numbers go up and down its working. If you get nothing and the float is good, the baffle needs to be replaced.
If you need parts I have plenty of VTS motors, and I have a mint VTS gauge right now, along with some faded ones that are cheaper. I also have baffles if its junk and beepers too.
Kozerxp
New Member
U can jump the two wires for the fuel gauge at the sender and if the gauge reads full the gauge and wiring is not at fault the ohm out the sender and if does not give you any reading (OL) then the internal fuse is bad there is a how to on how to fix it instead of replacing the expensive sender
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