96 GTX Gray Fuel Line Replacement

[Titaniumboy]

Thanks for the info on the vent check valve and pressure relief valve. I put a little light oil on the outside of the check valve and pushed with a Phillips like you suggested. I was a little surprised when that sucker finally popped loose - it really went flying inside the hull.

I verified operation by blowing in the check valve and it allowed air to only go through in one direction. And this allows me to now change out that old gray hose to new black hose. Since it seems to work I’m tempted to just put it back in. Isn’t brake cleaner kind of harsh on plastic?

You asked if my old oil is red. Nope, it is a blue green just like it came out of the bottle.

 

[Titaniumboy]

Is it red? You don't need to remove the old oil feed lines, though later if you ever need to remove the engine doing a rebuild that's a good time to do it. Make sure to prime or bleed the oil pump after installing the new 3/32" injection lines. Couple ways, you can loosen the little 8mm bleed screw to remove air to the pump, then when you start hold the arm open til it smokes. Be careful the cable can come off. Or another way, remove the pump and spin it counter clockwise with a drill. I like to do the drill and use my camera scope to see it pulse. That way when I reinstall the oil pump fully primed and I start I'm focused elsewhere, like adjusting the idle and cking for leaks on the hose.

That is a cool way of verifying operation. I don’t know enough yet to see how to run the oil pump on a drill. I’m guessing I will be changing those 3/32” oil lines once the carbs are rebuilt and being reinstalled. The tips you provided will come in handy then.

Where are you putting the borescope to be able to watch the pulse?

Do you have any thoughts with regards to doing a fuel system pressure test?

 

[KyleW2]

You asked if my old oil is red. Nope, it is a blue green just like it came out of the bottle.

What oil is that? Generally blue oil is TC-W3 oil and that is the wrong type of oil for these

 

[GGuillot]

Thanks for the info on the vent check valve and pressure relief valve. I put a little light oil on the outside of the check valve and pushed with a Phillips like you suggested. I was a little surprised when that sucker finally popped loose - it really went flying inside the hull.

I verified operation by blowing in the check valve and it allowed air to only go through in one direction. And this allows me to now change out that old gray hose to new black hose. Since it seems to work I’m tempted to just put it back in. Isn’t brake cleaner kind of harsh on plastic?

You asked if my old oil is red. Nope, it is a blue green just like it came out of the bottle.

No, brake cleaner or a carb type cleaner is fine, doesn't hurt it. Spray it and blow out, cleans any old varnished fuel out of it. When reinstalling the vent ck valves, little oil or penetrant and they'll slip back in. If you removed the rubber part also, reinstall that first.

Typically the full synthetic oil required for the 787 is red, the BRP Seadoo oil is. Though it's possible it has a full synthetic oil from another manufacture and it's blue/green. Personally, I'd fully drain and refill with whatever oil you'll be using, I wouldn't mix.

 

[Titaniumboy]

Sounds good. I will clean both vent valves with some brake cleaner.

The blue green oil is genuine Bombardier Rotax synthetic injection oil Formula XP-S. I bought a case (12 - 1 quart bottles) of this stuff in August 1996 within a couple of weeks of first taking delivery of the GTX. The last couple bottles of this original case have been residing in the oil tank for several years.

I paid $7.42 per quart for a case total of $89.04. I thought that was damn expensive at the time. I bought the case of oil because I didn’t want to run out sometime inconvenient and have to scramble to find injection oil on short notice. I had no idea, of course, that I would still have oil from that original case 25 years later.

The original part number was 413710500 but a search today reveals that the new part number is now 293600132. When did they change the color from blue green?

 

[Titaniumboy]

I decided to call XPS Lubricants to see what they had to say. I ended up at a Bombardier call center.

The service rep said that the new part number 293600132 that I posted above is also discontinued. He said I should be using 779465 2T PWC synthetic blend oil. The service rep freely admitted that his call center was a non-technical call center and that I should verify his info with a local dealer.

He said that my original oil part number showed only a five year shelf life. I passed that number a LONG time ago...

 

[GGuillot]

I decided to call XPS Lubricants to see what they had to say. I ended up at a Bombardier call center.

The service rep said that the new part number 293600132 that I posted above is also discontinued. He said I should be using 779465 2T PWC synthetic blend oil. The service rep freely admitted that his call center was a non-technical call center and that I should verify his info with a local dealer.

He said that my original oil part number showed only a five year shelf life. I passed that number a LONG time ago...

I don't know when it changed to red. I've owned my 97' GTX since 2017, it was my first jet ski, then I got the 96' GSX a year later. Both were trashed and I built them back up from bare hulls.

For the 787 and 951 engines it's recommended to use the full synthetic stuff, it's in the operators manual. Synthetic blend is probably fine, but considering how old your oil is I'd drain and fill with the new stuff. I ride a lot with my 2 jet skis, I can go all season with about 3-4 gallons. Back in the spring I think I paid $152 shipped for 3 gallons.

Amazon.com: Sea-Doo/Ski-Doo XPS 2 Stroke Synthetic Oil Gallon 779127: Sports & Outdoors

 

[KyleW2]

Yeah I’d drain that oil out and run a full synthetic. Either the BRP full synthetic (red now) or Amsoil Interceptor is good oil too.

 

[Titaniumboy]

Thanks for the replies.

I am really wondering about that recommendation to use synthetic blend. I am 99.5% sure that my blue green oil was full synthetic. Seadoo back in the day made a huge deal about using the full synthetic low ash special oil that only they made.

Edit: I just did another search for that now discontinued “new” number of 293600132 and it is a full synthetic oil made specifically for 2 stroke engines. That Bombardier call center bozo recommending a synthetic blend is full of crap.
Amazon.com: Ski-Doo,Can-Am,Sea-Doo XPS 2 Stroke Fully Synthetic Engine Oil Quart 293600132: Automotive

So my existing oil IS full synthetic, just like I remembered. I will call the local dealer tomorrow and see what they are suggesting, but I’m going to be shocked if the recommendation isn’t for the full synthetic that GG linked to.

 

[GGuillot]

That Bombardier call center bozo recommending a synthetic blend is full of crap.

Some of the people behind the counter or on the phone are younger than your ski, let's not forget, most manufactures and dealers, automotive and recreational, write off parts and technical support once the 10 yr mark is reached. I think the last 2 stroke from Seadoo is 2006, so that's 15 yrs..

The best wealth of info is right here and on other forums like the FB page.

 

[mikidymac]

Your 787 engine requires API-TC full synthetic oil, period.

Not blend or semi-synthetic, full synthetic.

The Seadoo full synthetic was gold in color then changed to red at least 10 years ago but it is the same stuff and is compatible. It was never blue or green. It is possible they sold you snowmobile oil back in the day?

The new stuff is listed as Seadoo XPS E-Tec 2T.

 

[Titaniumboy]

To remove you need to remove the black shield for the rear one and the other one up front just reach from inside the hull. I'd at least remove them and spray brake cleaner in them and blow them out with compressed air. Over time they can gum up and stick.

I sprayed carb cleaner in the check valve and the pressure relief valve to clean them out as recommended. It was interesting to spray the carb cleaner in the presssure relief valve because it just sits there at first, but when you hit it with the compressed air it overcomes the pressure setting and you can see the carb cleaner spray out of the valve.

I could not get either vent valve reinstalled with the rubber boot already installed. I had to remove the rubber boot from each vent valve and and then I could install the rubber boot back in the hull hole. The vent valves then easily were inserted into the rubber boot. The pics below were for the check valve.











I had a harder time reinstalling the rubber boot for the pressure relief valve. It is at kind of a strange angle in the front compartment. I finally resorted to using a cribbed together installation tool. I used a 1/4” to 3/8” socket adapter, along with a 3/8” to 1/4” socket adapter and a 1/4” socket driver.




This let me get a better angle so I could apply more force in getting the rubber boot to fully seat in the hole.




The pressure relief valve rubber boot is finally reinstalled.